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:? what grade of oil for front forks on a GL1500 or a good thick one to stop front end diveing under braking and cornering
 

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I had the same problem on my 98 1500 SE. Instead of experimenting with oils I replaced the front springs with Progressives. Made the front nice and firm. My bike had done 85000 miles.
 

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:waving: thanks am going to replace springs a mate though maybe try changing oil did new springs help with cornering bik just feels like it dose not want to turn
 

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Changing to a heavier for oil will definitely improve handling and front end dive for an aggressive rider. It also improves the ride if the roads you normally ride are not real smooth. I recently changed mine to 15w and love the improvement.
 

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While on the topic of fork oil, I have a related question: I have a 97 GL1500 that had the Progressive springs added a couple of years ago and I want to change the fork fluid to 15 wt. I've already got the forks pulled off the bike but when looking at my service manual it shows a special tool to remove the top portion and innards of the fork. Is this tool absolutely required to just change the fork fluid. I've never encountered this with any of the other bikes I've owned!



TIA

Pat Tucker
 

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I don't know if the 1500s have a drain screw butif you have the top cap off and the springs out just turn the forks upside down and pump them in and out to remove the fluid.
 

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Patrick1Z1Z wrote:
While on the topic of fork oil, I have a related question: I have a 97 GL1500 that had the Progressive springs added a couple of years ago and I want to change the fork fluid to 15 wt. I've already got the forks pulled off the bike but when looking at my service manual it shows a special tool to remove the top portion and innards of the fork. Is this tool absolutely required to just change the fork fluid. I've never encountered this with any of the other bikes I've owned!

 

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Pat Tucker
You need a 5/8" or 17mm hex fitted into a socket to take off the caps, that's the only special tool you need.
 

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davidjohn wrote:
:waving: thanks am going to replace springs a mate though maybe try changing oil  did new springs help with cornering bik just feels like it dose not want to turn
The 1500 is usually fitted with 15W fork oil, replacing it with 20W will improve things a lot.
 

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Does the 1500 have separately adjustable compression and rebound? I ask because I tried the same thing on my Bandit. I put heavier oil in it to fight front end diving without thinking about the rebound. It did help some with front end dive, but it also caused the rebound to slow down. Over smaller/repetitive bumps, it caused the front end to shudder because the wheel rebounded too slow. Ultimately, I needed a stronger spring and lighter oil. I know it seems counter intuitive, but it worked.
 

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Talking of oil, maybe some can help me so I can let my husband know.

He has a 1983 GL1100 Aspencade I think, and he has just changed the fork seals and he needs to know how much oil needs to go back in each fork.

So can someone help please.

Jane for johnfriartuck
 

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Might want to confirm first, but I believe it's 325ml per slider. I did mine last year and seem to remember it being around 8-10oz.

BTW if he has the money and inclination, might want to go ahead and put in Progressive springs before he struggles to put the cap back on.

And the caps...use a PVC or metal pipe to push it back on with something in the pipe to keep the cap from turning. Mark the threads on the cap and fork where they will start threading so he's not swearing and throwing things after 30 minutes trying to put the darn thing back on. Ask me how I know!
 

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my 1100 and 1200 improved greatly with just fresh ATF ads called for in the manual.

I thought that fresh ATF would be better than 10 + year old fluid. I didn this before resorting to progressives due to the money and the fact that I rarely ride 2 up but my 390 # weight does put a starin on the suspension.

I was happy with the ATF exchange. Up to you but worth a shot before spending the cash on progressives.
 
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