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I am in a area were it is hard to get repairs done on a older bike. I have torn the bike down to the place where there is only the snap-ring, foot bolt in lower cylinder, and/or triple tree release. One shop said if I take them off the bike the that is the only way they will work on them. Plus the charge $100 for labor each fork( no pars included). So I am looking for a better way to get the best ride that I can. Thanks for your help.
 

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Going to progressives usually reduces or eliminates the need for air in the front forks.
Oil is still required. For me it was worth the $300.00 or so to have the forks rebuilt.

Can't speak for Arkansas but up here shops that say 'no' during the summer are more
than happy to say 'yes' in the fall/winter when work becomes more scarce.

There are a number of posts in this forum that well describe the rebuilding process for
the do-it-yourselfer. Sounds like you're at that point. If so, use OEM seals.
 

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If you can do some basic work yourself you should be able to do the fork seals easy enough and save a ton of money!

Several threads on the forum how to do them.
I did my 82 1100 and it was not that hard really.

Be aware if you have the clymers manual for 1100's that it is wrong and shows the seals installed upside down!
 

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Thanks for the info. I think I will purchase a better pair of snap-ring pliers and give it another go today. Why would I want to remove the foot bolt that holds the inner tube in? I should be able to replace seal, rings, and bushing by removing the snap-ring?
 

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Thanks, I don't like to spend money when I don't have to. I will reload and try it again. The snap-ring is giving me a lot of trouble. Will purchase another pair of snap-ring pliers. Thank you again.
 

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Langroy wrote:
Thanks for the info. I think I will purchase a better pair of snap-ring pliers and give it another go today. Why would I want to remove the foot bolt that holds the inner tube in? I should be able to replace seal, rings, and bushing by removing the snap-ring?
I don't think the forks will come apart unless that foot bolt is out. You mean the one at the bottom of the fork where the axle goes right. Best way to remove it is with an impact gun and allen socket if you can.
I forget why it has to come out, but it does. I think there is a part inside the upper tube that stays in the upper and that bolt goes into that part. Drops in from the top as I recall and does not come out the bottom.
My manual is at the other place so I can't look at it right now.

You need to get the forks apart to get the old seals out. Best way to do this is probably leave the forks on the bike in the triple trees. I did mine in the trees though I had to remove one upper and fix some pits in the tube.

Here's a link to a thread that might help and I'm sure there are many other threads too.
http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/forum9/18606-1.html

If you read the whole thread there are some various tips like getting the clips out, if you have a snap-ring pliers and small screwdrivers you may not have to buy a new pliers.

To get the seals out, after you remove the snap ring from the groove and bolt from the bottom, you use the lower tube like a slide hammer up and down to knock out the seal. Worked well for me. Also you want to be careful removing the caps on top since there is some spring pressure on them.

Do a little reading up on the job, it's not that hard and there are some tips around to make it easier.
 
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