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I just went through this with my 1984 GL 1200I. With the key on, check your battery voltage first, then check the voltage on the regulator sensor wire (black wire) using the ground side of the battery. If they are the same the sensor wire is good. If the sensor wire is more than 1/2 volt off the regulator is pushing the charging voltage up based on what the sensor wire says and is over charging based on the difference. Mine was 1 volt lower and it was charging the battery at 15.3v. There are different ways to correct this but I chose to re-route the sensor wire to the battery. It is now charging at 13.4v.
He has a regulator without the sense wire but good idea anyway. I have discovered the black sense wire doesn't need to be switched, it draws no power from the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I'm praising the Lord right now! Took fake tank off and notice how hot the wires were at the solder so cut and re-sodered all and took a spin. Never since replacing this R/R did I get over 13.2 v with low beam and no radio on now it holds a steady 13.8v -14v so now I'm gonna let cool and try again later. Y'all pray for my Honda-Davidson that it stays the course
 

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. Never since replacing this R/R did I get over 13.2 v with low beam and no radio on now it holds a steady 13.8v -14v
It don't get any better than that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Fan always kicked in at 3 bars so I wanted to run 2nd time after cooling. Steady at 13.9v -14v Now I can run my extra lights ,use high beam and turn on my radio! Heck I even plugged the clock and computer back in! There's got to be a Wing owner out there somewhere that knows what I'm feeling right now! I even washed it and my wife offered to buy me a new windshield! God is Good!
 

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1987 GL1200 Interstate
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I just went through this with my 1984 GL 1200I. With the key on, check your battery voltage first, then check the voltage on the regulator sensor wire (black wire) using the ground side of the battery. If they are the same the sensor wire is good. If the sensor wire is more than 1/2 volt off the regulator is pushing the charging voltage up based on what the sensor wire says and is over charging based on the difference. Mine was 1 volt lower and it was charging the battery at 15.3v. There are different ways to correct this but I chose to re-route the sensor wire to the battery. It is now charging at 13.4v.
Can you show how you "re-routed"? I'm dealing with a similar issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
I never re-routed only clipped about 4" off R/R wires and sodered the wires direct. My plug was toast from last R/R I dont have a sensing wire on this R/R from electrosport it was sold and recommended to run cooler.
 

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Can you show how you "re-routed"? I'm dealing with a similar issue.
All you have to do is run a wire from the battery + to the black wire at the regulator. Disconnect the wire from the switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
GL1200 1986 Aspencade SEI. Just received my new upgraded R/R from reg/ret it is the mofset .My connectors were melted and the shindengensh574a has 8 wires 3 yellow , 2 green , 2 red w/white stripe and 1 black w/white stripe (8) wires total. My mofset has ( 7 wires) 3 yellow,2 red ,2 black. I assume the 2 black go to the 2 green but what about the black sensing wire. Is it better to soder direct or should I crimp female connectors and waterproof?
 

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Don't want to be a killjoy, but the RR is either a shunt or series RR. A MOSFET transistor is an internal electronic component that replaces the older technology such as an SCR. MOSFET transistors are used in both shunt and series RR.

As for the wiring, the new RR does not use a sense wire like the old RR. It uses the power wires to sense the electrical circuit voltage. The yellow are stator wires, the red are power wires, and the black are ground.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Don't want to be a killjoy, but the RR is either a shunt or series RR. A MOSFET transistor is an internal electronic component that replaces the older technology such as an SCR. MOSFET transistors are used in both shunt and series RR.

As for the wiring, the new RR does not use a sense wire like the old RR. It uses the power wires to sense the electrical circuit voltage. The yellow are stator wires, the red are power wires, and the black are ground.
TY sodered all together steady 13.7- 13.8v hope they stay there now
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
I did want to say thank you to all the replies for your help. I was so excited thinking it was solved 1st go around but rather fix it here then along the roadside somewhere. The last thing I need is a blown up battery. The new R/R set me back $182 but I'm hoping to get my money out of it this go around. Should of heeded the advice of this forum the 1st time and not try to get away cheap with aftermarket R/R Electrosports got me 4yrs so live and learn
 

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1987 GL1200 Interstate
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Four years is pretty good for an aftermarket regulator. I've seen them not last four minutes on an LTD.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Four years is pretty good for an aftermarket regulator. I've seen them not last four minutes on an LTD.
I went thru 2 $25 china ebay ones when my shindegen blew then on golddocs forum read of Electrosport paid almost $130 back then.I'm learning to love my wing. It was given to me so the price was right.
 
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