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Official "Cheeky Plonker"
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Ok, 8:30 Saturday morning, heading Downtown for a club meet, cruising, 70 ish in the center lane of I45, minding my own business, smell this burning smell , followed by a large degree of inertia (is inertia measured in degrees? I dunno, but it was a lot) so I think it's time to head for the shoulder, of course no-one in the right lanes is aware, or even cares that I might be in trouble so i give it gas and force my way to the shoulder trying NOT come to a full stop on the freeway, 'cos that can hurt you real bad.

It appeared that only the right caliper was smoking and after a little while the brake comes off, and I baby it home, now, I've done a big rebuild on these brakes recently and at that time the right caliper was from a recently purchased set, so I get home, immediatly change out that SOB to my old right caliper, that i trust implicitly, ride it around and works fine.

Go Downtown again this morning, going to work on the HOV, no problems, everything hunky dory, get halfway up theHOV going home and there's that smell again,brake locks on, gotta pull over, this timeI sit there30 minutes and the brakeis not going to come off, so I happen to have my brake tools with me in the saddlebags and decide to crack that banjo bolt on the master cylinder and let some of that pressure off, before I get run over by a bus and now the brake is great again.

[suP]What is up with that????[/suP]
 

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Your master cylinder is not letting the fluid return, either the tiny little return hole is plugged or the plunger is not returning all the way.
 

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Official "Cheeky Plonker"
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Well thank you Sir, that was the best answer I could come up with too,where the brake lever got rock hard every time too,but why so intermitent? who knows? I'm gonna empty that thing and clean it right out with degreaser and get a new rebuild kit for it. That's a lot better than getting run down by a drunk in a Dodge.
 

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If you are talking about a 1983 GL 1100, then the rear brake was probably hot to. Make sure the rear brake pedal moves up and down freely and is not sticking part way down sometimes.
 

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Official "Cheeky Plonker"
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I for sure appreciate your input Sir but it's an '82, and in '82, the front brake, really was a front brake, for better or worse !!! ;)
 

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Yep, you are right, just a thought. Probably the small hole in the master cylider is mostly stopped up.
 

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chilidawg wrote:
That's a lot better than getting run down by a drunk in a Dodge.
I have to ask how you know that?

Have you actually ever been run over by a drunk in a Dodge? Would it be essentially different than being run over by a drunk in a Toyota?

Or a sober person in a Dodge, for that matter? :cooldevil:

 

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Hey guys,





I am definitely not an expert…. really just thinking out loud but…



If it was the same side again (the right hand caliper) you may have a collapsing brake line on that side. Or, at least something specific to that side? I would think that if it were the master cylinder at fault, and this is an 82, wouldn’t both brakes be locked up?



Again, thinking out loud here.



Tim.
 

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Here is most likely your answer! Do not remove or rebuild the master cylinder anymore. The key point that you gave when describing the problem is when you loosened the banjo bolt. It is a dualcaliper/dual disc set-up correct?If only one caliper is locking up then replacethe hose on the sidethat is locking up. Yes, just replacethe hose on the side that is locking up!
 

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Just what I needed, a brake thread shows up while I'm replacing pads on my rear. Almost metal to metal (.040 ), should check this more often.
Gosh what a bunch of corrosion, steel pad retainer pins corroded into caliper, exposed end of pucks look like rotten old ******* file. Anything we can put on it to slow this down, or should cleaning of these parts be a yearly storage project. At least the pucks on my truck seem to have chrome plate on them.
 

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knot750 wrote:
Here is most likely your answer! Do not remove or rebuild the master cylinder anymore. The key point that you gave when describing the problem is when you loosened the banjo bolt. It is a dualcaliper/dual disc set-up correct?If only one caliper is locking up then replacethe hose on the sidethat is locking up. Yes, just replacethe hose on the side that is locking up!
I disagree. He said when he loosed the banjo bolt AT THE MASTER CYLINDER, that the pressure was released, and the right caliper released. This means two things:

1. The master cylinder is not allowing the pressure to release when the lever is released. This is the common plugged return port problem. He needs to rebuild the master cylinder and clean out that tiny return port.

2. When the master cylinder is not releasing pressure, the right caliper is locked onto its disc. When he loosened the banjo and manually released the pressure, the right caliper let go. This means the right caliper is working correctly. The question is, why wasn't the LEFT caliper also locked on?

I think he's got two different problems. One is the master cylinder, the other is the left caliper.

Go out for a short ride, brake normally using the front brakes, and then feel both front brake disks. Are they both hot?

That said, having only one front brake working is pretty evident, because the bike will dive for the curb every time you hit the front brakes. Perhaps the right caliper is working, and the left caliper is substandard?

If you have an infrared thermometer ($10 at Harbor Freight), go out for a short ride, brake a few times with the front brakes, then measure the temperature of both front discs. They should be close to the same temperature. If not, then one brake is not working as well as the other.
 

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Bike...and Dennis wrote:
chilidawg wrote:
That's a lot better than getting run down by a drunk in a Dodge.
I have to ask how you know that?

Have you actually ever been run over by a drunk in a Dodge? Would it be essentially different than being run over by a drunk in a Toyota?

Or a sober person in a Dodge, for that matter? :cooldevil:
I was but she wasn't drunk. She was SHOPPING!

The dodge gets a lot bigger when they run you over with it. And that was viewed from behind.
 

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Did you make sure the silver SHim was placed back into the brake assembly when you put on your nre brakes? I had one do this, and I forgot to put it on, and my right caliper done the same thing, until I put the Silver Shim back on. I was doing 40, and in less than 1/2 block the bike pulled me to a dead stop.
Good Luck,
Nightrider1
 

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Nightrider1:
Where is this silver shim you talked about. I didn't see any when I cleaned my calipers. I've been having locking problems with my right front on my 83 GL1100A.
It locks up just riding and not using the foot brake.
I've cleaned the pistons, how would I know if the 'O' rings need replacing? Could there be too much resistance from them?
 

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Piled Higher and Deeper
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If it is not the return hole that Dave mentions (which is the most probable cause), you might have a piece of debri (usually a piece of rubber) in an orfice of the banjo bolt... It can act like a one-way check valve.. In my case, I experienced identical symptoms as yours.. reworked everything.. didn't find it until I pressure flushed the lines and found it partially blockedand it came free...
 

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Rudy wrote
I was but she wasn't drunk. She was SHOPPING!

The dodge gets a lot bigger when they run you over with it. And that was viewed from behind.
Rudy, you prejudiced against Dodges? :D

I sort of rank them in the same category as brainless Freightliner drivers :cooldevil:
 

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chilidawg wrote:
Well thank you Sir, that was the best answer I could come up with too,where the brake lever got rock hard every time too,but why so intermitent? who knows? I'm gonna empty that thing and clean it right out with degreaser and get a new rebuild kit for it. That's a lot better than getting run down by a drunk in a Dodge.
do not use degreaser.... the only thing that you can use to clean parts that have brake fluid is denatured alcohol
 

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I had an old motor home that did the same thing, it turned out to be that there was moisture in the brake system that would expand as the vehicle brake system got warmer and apply the brakes. had smoke coming off the rear drums. I would change out the fluid and see if it stops.
 

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Not trying to hijack this thread but have same problem on an 82 1100 Aspy of my Buddy's.We did a rear brake job and is now locking up solid. We got it back to the garage and took off the caliper and shined everything up on it, changed the brake fluid, bled it and tested it on the center stand. everything was good. We took it out for a test run and in about 1/2 mile she was locked up again. will check hoses and master cylinder tomorrow.
 
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