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Just put back together my wife's 1200 with sidecar and now I have an awful noise from the left front brake disk (the one which the front master cylinder uses). I know some of it is the forces on the forks from having a sidecar (it is worse on right turns), but it has never been this bad before. I also get the sound with using the front brake. I checked all the mounting bolts, used anti seize on the caliber pins, scuffed the pads.... finally have replaced the pads (haven't test rode since replacing)...

so now I am wondering if either the master or brake cylinder needs to be rebuilt as maybe it is not letting the pads back off enough.

I should add, there was always a little noise just because the of the forces on the forks while turning... but never this much
 

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What kind of noise? When I put new EBC pads on my bike I can hear them a bit when applied, they make kind of a swishing noise.
 

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it is kind of a whirrr whirrr whirr noise (but very loud) you always get a little of that with a rig because of the fork flexion with steering, but I have noticed the 3 or 4 times I have taken them apart over the weekend, as I slide off the brake it is tight on the rotor, so I am thinking yes it may be a sticking piston. The question is, should I start with the brake, or the master to fix. AND, is it a job that is do-able.
 

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If it's only one piston then the MC is okay. I'd pull the caliper and teke out the piston and clean off the caked on crud. That's probably all it needs.
 

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Rebuilding the calipers is pretty easy I would say buy a caliper kit and bring it over but I am in California this week and the wife don't no nuthin about brakes so yer on your own.
 

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ok... so far... have popped out both brake pistons and cleaned them up with denatured alcohol.... the pistons looked good, and a small amount of crud which cleaned up easy in the caliper.... put it back together and....

still the same noise... jacked up the front end and the front wheel will barely spin... should I hone out the caliper? could this be just the bushing pin where the loop mount to the front fork? Or, should I look at doing the master cyclinder.

Okay, I admit I am once again ready to sell parts on ebay
 

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rcmatt007 wrote:
Okay, I admit I am once again ready to sell parts on ebay
Nah ya can't let the thing beat ya! If the pistons pushed in by hand fairly easily after you got the started past the seal ring that's good enough.

That leaves very little except the mounting sleeves. These are the sleeves the two mounting bolts pass through, the longer one has a rubber boot on each end. These sleeves should be free to slide back and forth in the caliper, the caliper moves on the sleeves, not on the mounting bolts.

One other check is to crack the bleed screw, it that frees things up, then it's either the maste cylinder or a bad brake line with an internal failure.
 

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actually, no they did not push in easily, I do have new seals coming from bikebandit, so I guess I will hone the puppys out.

most of my frustration with this bike was it started as a real jewell. Had and eml earles fork front end and it was a great bike. My daughter (who now works in law enforcement) took it out with a male (who if he shows up on my property again....) and ran it into a tree... ruined the front end and fairing. I took it all apart. Moved to Oregon, and then rebuilt the bike. since the rebuilding, it has been one little thing after another.
 

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fortunately my daughter learned her lesson, didn't get hurt, and next month is marrying a very nice (different) young man.
 

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rcmatt007 wrote:
actually, no they did not push in easily, I do have new seals coming from bikebandit, so I guess I will hone the puppys out.
The things should be a bit of a loose fit without the seals in place, so it might be the caliper body itself. Be careful honing these little guys out, it's easy to get the sides out of parallel in such a little cylinder, and don't ask me how I know. Something embarrassing with a model airplane engine.
 

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okay... now have taking out the busing pin on the caliper... and LOTS of corrsion, which I was able to clean off, put on anti-sieze, and now the barke caliper is not binding and the wheel spins freely. however still get the whirr whirr whirr on right hand turns and braking. I think this may be pad related.

It does brake well... maybe I just need to put up with the noise
 

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Glad you found the culprit.

The first time I worked on the rear brake of my bike the sleeves fooled me. For some reason my little mind thought that because the bolts came out easily all was well. Took me awhile to have an 'aha!' If those dudes aren't free it's gonna bind. The largest clue was right there in front of me, if your pads wear down much more on one side than the other, it's a sure thing the caliper isn't free. They will wear down pretty evenly if the caliper moves as designed.

As for the noise, my EBCs tend to make a swishing noise when I apply the brakes. It seem to be diminishing as they wear in. The main thing is that they work well.
 

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just an update... finally got a chance to ride wife's bike (okay have had chances, but have been riding my own bikes and she hasn't riden it) the brake noise is 95% gone... was that nasty little pin after all...

and....

discovered the steering head was loose....

one bolt missing off fork brace.... others were loose....

so it may be her bike... but it looks like I should look after it more often
 

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I was even more embrassed after finding the sqweak in Val's bike. One of the pads was in backwards. Thats one way to make the pad last. Just wish I could figure out why the back brake keeps sticking now. I have replaced the pads, the fluid, cleaned and greased the calipers but it acts like intermitantly the presure does not bleed off. Even the pedal is exteamely stiff when the brake locks up. Guess I need to tear apart the master cylinder.
 

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Not sure if this will help; I remember reading something in the shop manual(Honda) about the front brakes,when tightening the axle holding bolts, you are supposed to put a 7 thou? feeler between the rotor(I think) and the forks, this is because it's easy to bring the forks TOO close in when the bolts are tightened. It's a bit hard to describe; The distance of the forks at the bottom on the axle can be too close OR too far apart (by a few thou), so it's important to get them just right. It will cause binding( brakes) if not done correctly. Of coarse this could be a bad dream I had...But I'm pretty sure it's in the book..... :~)
 

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Its been 5 years I hope his problem has been fixed by now.
:action:
 

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My bikes came with the little feeler guage for that job. It seems to be critical to keep noise down.
 

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Please check post dates before responding to a 4 year old post.

:D:D:D:D:D:D
 

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Bagmaster; Good point!...I'm a newbie,but, you are right..I should have checked the dates. There is just so much interesting stuff on this site.I've been "catching up".
My bad....Barry... :~)
 
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