[33zip]

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Well, finally got time to change out the front fork oil. MyHonda manual says do one at a time so I started with the rightshock. Drained the oil as instructed and then jacked up thefront wheel and removed thecap. Added the required amount of ATF and see no way of compressing the spring enough to screw the cap back on.

Is there some trick to this? Would it make any difference if both shocks were done at the same time?

 

[Hobie1]

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I'm not sure what you're riding, but I would think it would be a bitch to put the cap back on while the fork is still in the bike. My 83's caps are actually the air valves on top of the tubes and there isn't a standard socket to fit them as far as I know. Could be wrong though.

I just put Progressive's springs in my 83I but I took both fork tubes out of the bike. When I went to put the caps back on the fork tubes, I clamped a C-clamp on the cap and turned the tube while I pressed inward. It worked really well and seemed to help me keep from cross threading them. I only had to tip the tube at a slight angle to keep the new oil in.

Good luck and be careful. Those springs can cause a nasty welt on your head if they get away from you.:waving:

Regards,

:11red:Hobie's friend

 

[Hobie1]

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I didn't know that bitch would be edited. What a freaking deal.:action:

I'll be more polite in the future:gunhead:

Hobie

 

[Shooter]

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I'm a glutton for punishment, But I drained both front forks at the same time on my 86-Interstate. Leave the bike on the center-stand, and raise the front wheel off the ground with a floor jack. I used a 1/2" drive socket,extension and ratchet to reinstall the fork cap.

As Hobie already warned, be carefull not to cross-thread, and safety glasses are a good idea. Those end-caps can hurt when they get a-way... :gunhead:

 

[englishted]

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Hobie1 wrote:

I didn't know that b***h would be edited. What a freaking deal.:action:

I'll be more polite in the future:gunhead:

Hobie

It's done automatically by the forum software, thats the way the modern forums work. Have you got Progressives in your 1200? They are really difficult to compress, you may need help to push down. Cross-threading is a real danger and draining both forks together shouldn't make a difference.

 

[twisty]

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33zip wrote:

Well, finally got time to change out the front fork oil. MyHonda manual says do one at a time so I started with the rightshock. Drained the oil as instructed and then jacked up thefront wheel and removed thecap. Added the required amount of ATF and see no way of compressing the spring enough to screw the cap back on.

Is there some trick to this? Would it make any difference if both shocks were done at the same time?

33Zip, I just had my 1200 apart this weekend to install 10mm spring spacers so I had even more spring to compress.

What I did was use a 12"1/2 drive extension in the socket with a 10" long- 3/4" pipe over the extension with some friction tape wound on the pipe. With the help of my wife it went together pretty good.

I used a 1/2" drive ratchet on the extension with one hand above the ratchet and one hand on the ratchet handle. My wife used both hands on the pipe to pull down as I also pushed down& turned the ratchet.

Without her help I had no chance of compressing enough to install those caps, with her pulling down also it went pretty good.

I'm going to modify that pipe method by welding two short handles on the sides of the pipe to allow even easier pull-down by a second person.



Twisty

 

[tricky]

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Yes it is a two person job at least for an old fogie like me
I installed progressives and found the job a little easier.
When I change my fork oil I usually dis-assemble the anti dive mechanism and clean them out too, amazing the crud that accumulates.
I changed to a 15 weight fork oil.
Can't say if it is any improvment but maybe I don't ride as aggressivly as some

 

[33zip]

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Was wondering if you could drill andthread a hole in the cap. A bolt with a fiber washer would then beremoved to re-fill the shock after drainingwithout having to un-load the spring. It wouldn't be any different than the drain bolt at the bottom.

 

[33zip]

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Twisty,

Great idea. I'm going to make up a length of pipe this morning.

Thanks

 

[rcmatt007]

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I used a 1/2 drive, but took a peice to 2x4, drilled a hole in it and had my wife use it to push the socket and cap into place whilst I used the ratchet to screw it into place... the 2x4 gave the leverage to hold it in place and that was with progressive springs

 

[twisty]

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33zip wrote:

Was wondering if you could drill andthread a hole in the cap. A bolt with a fiber washer would then beremoved to re-fill the shock after drainingwithout having to un-load the spring. It wouldn't be any different than the drain bolt at the bottom.

That shouldn't be problem as we used to do all the old air fork dirt bikes that way.

On the 1200 Goldwing all I did to just change the fork fluid was to drain it , then remove the air hose from the front fork attachment and push in a plastic hose fittingthen use my vacuum pump to pull the correct amount of oil back in through the drain plug holes 'one side at a time' using another press fit plastic fitting and a short piece of plastic hose.

That vacuum method has been used by the Harley guys for years and does work quite well.



Twisty

 

[33zip]

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Hey Twisty,

Made your fork spring compressor and added the handles. Worked like a dream. Everythings back together and I do believe it has improved the ride. I still get quite a bit of dive when I use the front brake though.

Thanks

 

[twisty]

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33zip wrote:

Hey Twisty,

Made your fork spring compressor and added the handles. Worked like a dream. Everythings back together and I do believe it has improved the ride. I still get quite a bit of dive when I use the front brake though.

Thanks

33zip, you're welcome. Glad it all worked out for you.

I still get quite a bit of dive when I use the front brake though.

I just installed 12mm front spring spacers in my 1200 and although it helps I still get enough dive to bottom the forks on a hard (max braking) stop from 80mph+.

Using more front air pressure helps a lot but that causes the seals to stick to the fork tubes and I'm afraid of blowing out the front seals (that's why I installed the 12mm spacers).

It looks like progressive front springs are in my future plans.



Twisty

 

[33zip]

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I've got a GL1200a and this is my first Goldwing. Maybe I'm expecting to much,maybe the front end dive is normal? I dunno. Have never ridden a Wing before so have nothing to compare it to. I hear alot about Progressive springs but don't know anything about them either. Where do you get them?

 

[tricky]

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Got mine here for my 1200 aspy http://www.vencowings.com/ I don't notice a great difference in the ride. If your diving too much with the correct air pressure adjust the anti dive mechanism. Is the AntiDive sludged up. Don't know if cleaning them out might help but I know they are at the bottom of the fork where all the grime will acumulate. I cleaned mine last year, I was suprised how much sludge was there.

 

[RedWinger]

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[englishted]

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On the gl1500 you can drill and tap the cap and fit an air valve, then you have air forks like the US model SE! Makes it easier to replace fork oil as well.

 

[exavid]

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twisty wrote:

On the 1200 Goldwing all I did to just change the fork fluid was to drain it , then remove the air hose from the front fork attachment and push in a plastic hose fittingthen use my vacuum pump to pull the correct amount of oil back in through the drain plug holes 'one side at a time' using another press fit plastic fitting and a short piece of plastic hose.

That vacuum method has been used by the Harley guys for years and does work quite well.
Twisty

Hell, I thought I'd invented something with my hand vacuum pump when I changed the fork oil in the GREEN MACHINE! It does work well and eliminates the bother with the springs.

 

[dean_3326]

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twisty wrote:

33zip wrote:

Was wondering if you could drill andthread a hole in the cap. A bolt with a fiber washer would then beremoved to re-fill the shock after drainingwithout having to un-load the spring. It wouldn't be any different than the drain bolt at the bottom.

That shouldn't be problem as we used to do all the old air fork dirt bikes that way.

On the 1200 Goldwing all I did to just change the fork fluid was to drain it , then remove the air hose from the front fork attachment and push in a plastic hose fittingthen use my vacuum pump to pull the correct amount of oil back in through the drain plug holes 'one side at a time' using another press fit plastic fitting and a short piece of plastic hose.

That vacuum method has been used by the Harley guys for years and does work quite well.



Twisty

Hey Twisty, What exactly is a press fit plastic fitting? , I would like to try this method of changing the oil.