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On my 1500 with 39k on it the front forks seem alfull weak. I am going to put progressive springs in it but haven't bought them yet. My question is I was told I could put a 1 1/2" shim (plastic pipe) for a temp repair. I have done a lot of wrenching on bikes over the years but not the forks. Will it work, what should I use, and what do I need a bolt to fit the cap. Just wonder if I can get over it enough to push the cap down to tighten. I do have a pitbull lift. Thanks......gary
 

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Gary, have you tried the cheap things first, like changing the fork oil? Bad fork oil is the cause of most fork problems on Goldwings.
 

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BRowan wrote:
Gary, have you tried the cheap things first, like changing the fork oil? Bad fork oil is the cause of most fork problems on Goldwings.
No but might try that. I just want to stiffen it up some and in the very near future it wiil be new springs and seals. I have one seal that has a very small weep. Thanks...gary
 

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Hi there Gary. Fork oil needs replacing every 2 or 3 years on a Wing even with low miles. You will be surprised at the difference in handling just by changing the oil.
 

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03Silver wrote:
Hi there Gary. Fork oil needs replacing every 2 or 3 years on a Wing even with low miles. You will be surprised at the difference in handling just by changing the oil.
What type do you use ATF or regular fork oil. Can you push the oil back up through the drain plug with a large syringe?? Hate to take those caps off....gary
 

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You can pump oil in from below, you'll need to remove the valves from the air stems at the top so it can vent. You will find the Progressive springs really improve the handling, they are soft on the small bumps and harden up on the larger stuff. I like the cornering much better on my bike which has Progressives front and back. Some use ATF some use fork oil. Do a search in the box above on fork oil there's been much discussion on this matter.
 

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exavid wrote:
You can pump oil in from below, you'll need to remove the valves from the air stems at the top so it can vent. You will find the Progressive springs really improve the handling, they are soft on the small bumps and harden up on the larger stuff. I like the cornering much better on my bike which has Progressives front and back. Some use ATF some use fork oil. Do a search in the box above on fork oil there's been much discussion on this matter.
exavid mine doesn't have the air stems, can I still do it from the bottom....gary
 

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If you are having the forks out, you may want to strip them and check/replace the bushes also.I thought the headstock bearings were loose on mine untill I had a better look. I am sure these will also have a detrimental effect on the handling

I am just about to change the oil, bushes and seals, just as soon as they arrive. :X
 

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Gary, the stock springs are easy to push down by yourself when fitting the cap. New oil will probably cure the problem, it's worth a try before doing anything more serious.
 

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englishted wrote:
Gary, the stock springs are easy to push down by yourself when fitting the cap. New oil will probably cure the problem, it's worth a try before doing anything more serious.
Thanks Ted, I think that is what I will do.........gary
 

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gb45 wrote:
exavid wrote:
You can pump oil in from below, you'll need to remove the valves from the air stems at the top so it can vent. You will find the Progressive springs really improve the handling, they are soft on the small bumps and harden up on the larger stuff. I like the cornering much better on my bike which has Progressives front and back. Some use ATF some use fork oil. Do a search in the box above on fork oil there's been much discussion on this matter.
exavid mine doesn't have the air stems, can I still do it from the bottom....gary
If you don't have air valves on top you really need to take the caps off, othewise you'd just be pumping the oil in against building air pressure and probably couldn't get the full amount in. The caps aren't all that hard to get out if you have stock springs as has already been mentioned. If you think your forks are too soft, you might want to pull the springs and check them for length, I don't have the measurements for the 1990 but someone here might. If they have been hammered down below minimum length they should be replaced. The problem with putting too much of a spacer in the fork is you have to be careful that there's room for the fully compressed spring and the spacer, it wouldn't do to have the fork come down on an incompressible stack. The easiest and best route in my opinion is Progressive springs. Order a set of fork caps at the same time with air valves, or install them in your existing caps.
 

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exavid, the wing raises way up an down going through the gears and when I take if off the side stand and set on it the forks drop so I bet the I should order the new springs. The bike has 39k on it. Are the seals a bear to put in as I now have one that has a very slight leak. I have worked on a lot of things on my others wings and bikes but never the fork seals. Can I make what special tools I will need such as seal driver..Thanks...Gary
 

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Just remember to do one leg at a time, if you pull both caps with the front unsupported it'll drop and may injure you.

To support the front end you can just place the bike on the centerstand, secure the centerstand to the frame forward of it's pivot (tiedown works fine) and lift the front of the bike by placing your automotive hydraulic jack under the engine case, use a block of wood for cushion between the jack and the case.

As in all cases when using a jack, place a jackstand or suitable cribbing under the frame to prevent collapse should the jack fail.

God...I sound like a Safety Nazi.
 

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gb45 wrote:
exavid, the wing raises way up an down going through the gears and when I take if off the side stand and set on it the forks drop so I bet the I should order the new springs. The bike has 39k on it. Are the seals a bear to put in as I now have one that has a very slight leak. I have worked on a lot of things on my others wings and bikes but never the fork seals. Can I make what special tools I will need such as seal driver..Thanks...Gary
Gary (gb45)* Do a search on fork seals, lost of discussion on that. You'll need a Honda or Clymer Manual. If Clymer they show the seal upside down. There's info on that here to. The job isn't all that bad, many here have done it, I'd order the seals and the bushings, they aren't expensive, probably don't need bushings, but in case you do you wouldn't want to be waiting for them once the forks are apart. I sure would recommend ordering Progressive springs, they run around $70, you're likely to need new springs anyway and I don't think OEM ones are much cheaper. There's info on the forum about driving in seals and pulling out bushings, just do a search. But get a manual, the pictures will help a lot.

* per REDWING
 

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Tony I have a pitbull lift under a shade tree :weightlifter:to lift the bike. The pitbull is wide enough that it very stable even in the yard. Now to just get the seals and springs in it. I guess I will order them next week, any suggestions......gary
 

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Oh...I see "Pitbull" is a frame lift.

Suggestions for parts...First, your local friendly dealership, always try to support the local guy.

If there is no local guy, or he's unfriendly, or he can't get you the parts, I've had good luck with BikeBandit

http://www.bikebandit.com/

or PartsFish

http://www.powersportspro.com/

Both can get your parts to you in a couple of days.
 

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Thanks Tony, I'm going to bite the bullit and get them ordered in a few days. Then get my hands dirty, hope I don't knock my front teeth out, sweet corn is ready to pick and eat. Thanks again........gary
 

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When unscrewing the caps, keep body parts out of the line of fire!
 
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