Pop the piston out-clean the piston/bore and the gunk out of seal groove- coat parts with brake fluid-install-bleed-tighten axle nut and with wheel off the ground, you can push or pull the fork tube in or out just enough to free wheel at the sweet spot. Rotate tire by hand while applying the lever on and off till your happy its right on. Generally the right axle head will be flush with the outer boss of tube then tighten the cap down front nut first. Note: You want the cap just snug enough so you can still move the tube.
Front Wheel and Brakes binding 1981 GL1100
Please assist guys... The front wheel / breaks are binding bad even hard to turn the wheel by hand when the off the ground. When I loosen the caliper bolts the wheel turns with on problem but when I tighten it all up again the breaks are binding. I found the following info on removing and replaceing the front wheel.......
Insert a 0.7mm feeler in between the caliper mount and the rotor at several spots on both sides of the rotor, on both the left and right sides of the motorcycle. If there is binding, loosen the axle holder nuts and adjust the fork leg in or out as required, then snug the axle holder nuts again and re-check....
My question is how do you adjust the fork leg in or out ??? Would really like some one to talk me through it step for step......... Thanks guys..
Insert a 0.7mm feeler in between the caliper mount and the rotor at several spots on both sides of the rotor, on both the left and right sides of the motorcycle. If there is binding, loosen the axle holder nuts and adjust the fork leg in or out as required, then snug the axle holder nuts again and re-check....
My question is how do you adjust the fork leg in or out ??? Would really like some one to talk me through it step for step......... Thanks guys..
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caliper rebuild. I just did mine on my 1500 last night. rode it to work and its a BIG difference. Added to that if they are binding, you are going to eat through brake pads like you wouldn't believe
Insert a 0.7mm feeler in between the caliper mount and the rotor at several spots on both sides of the rotor, on both the left and right sides of the motorcycle. If there is binding, loosen the axle holder nuts and adjust the fork leg in or out as required, then snug the axle holder nuts again and re-check....
My question is how do you adjust the fork leg in or out ??? Would really like some one to talk me through it step for step......... Thanks guys..
This procedure gets the caliper aligned with the disk. After you loosen the axle holder nuts you grab the slider and pull it away from the wheel then retigten the nuts. This is done to keep the caliper from rubbing on the disk. I doubt its really your problem. I would take the caliper off, put a hose on the brake bleeder, open it and then by hand or with a C-clamp push the piston all the way into the caliper, then close the bleeder and remove the hose. Next pull the mounting bolts out of the caliper, clean and relube them. When you reinstall it center it as described above. With the piston fully depressed you should be able to slide the caliper in and out until both the pads contact the disk. If you can't you need to fix the parts the allow the caliper to float. Let us know how it goes.
My question is how do you adjust the fork leg in or out ??? Would really like some one to talk me through it step for step......... Thanks guys..
This procedure gets the caliper aligned with the disk. After you loosen the axle holder nuts you grab the slider and pull it away from the wheel then retigten the nuts. This is done to keep the caliper from rubbing on the disk. I doubt its really your problem. I would take the caliper off, put a hose on the brake bleeder, open it and then by hand or with a C-clamp push the piston all the way into the caliper, then close the bleeder and remove the hose. Next pull the mounting bolts out of the caliper, clean and relube them. When you reinstall it center it as described above. With the piston fully depressed you should be able to slide the caliper in and out until both the pads contact the disk. If you can't you need to fix the parts the allow the caliper to float. Let us know how it goes.
Hi FGH....
Can you please explain put a 'hose on the brake bleeder'... is that a tube over the nipple?? and where does the hose / tube go to or from?? do you then also have to bleed the brakes again??.. Sorry for the questions I just want to make sure that I understand the procedure... Thanks,
Eric
Can you please explain put a 'hose on the brake bleeder'... is that a tube over the nipple?? and where does the hose / tube go to or from?? do you then also have to bleed the brakes again??.. Sorry for the questions I just want to make sure that I understand the procedure... Thanks,
Eric
Remove the caliper and brake pads, place a piece of wood about 1/2-3/4" thick where the pads were. Pull the brake lever 2 or 3 times so that the pistons in the caliper move out a little more, the wood keeps them from falling out. You only need to expose the dirty section of the piston. Next with an old tooth brush and some soapy water clean the dirty piston(s) well, then rinse. Do not use high pressure hose.
Spray some brake cleaner to clean and dry. Finish by applying a light film of brake fluid with a finger to piston(s) to lubricate. Push piston(s) back in. Replace pads. The pad pins should be cleaned. Check that the caliper slide pins are clean and greased. If you grab the caliper with a hand while mounted on the bike, and push/pull laterally it should move slightly.
Flush and bleed the brake fluid.
Watch this video, it may help you.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b3ocmkQQtFQ
Spray some brake cleaner to clean and dry. Finish by applying a light film of brake fluid with a finger to piston(s) to lubricate. Push piston(s) back in. Replace pads. The pad pins should be cleaned. Check that the caliper slide pins are clean and greased. If you grab the caliper with a hand while mounted on the bike, and push/pull laterally it should move slightly.
Flush and bleed the brake fluid.
Watch this video, it may help you.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b3ocmkQQtFQ
Does it do this all the time, or only after a few minutes of riding (when the brakes get hot)? The problem may be in your master cylinder. If it is only when it's hot, test it like this: Take an 8mm wrench with you on a short ride. When it binds up, twist the bleed screw. Does brake fluid shoot out and the brake release? The problem is then with the return hole in your master cylinder.
It doing it from when its cold, does seem to loosen up a bit after I get going....
The opening of the bleed screw is not a valid test for pressure in the lines.
The torque required to open the bleed screw will often set the pistons back resulting in a stream of fluid.
I've been there done that. Cleaned the master and replaced the lines and the problem persisted.
The solution was as in post two and three. Cleaning the corrosion out of the bottom of the caliper seal grooves cured the problem.
The torque required to open the bleed screw will often set the pistons back resulting in a stream of fluid.
I've been there done that. Cleaned the master and replaced the lines and the problem persisted.
The solution was as in post two and three. Cleaning the corrosion out of the bottom of the caliper seal grooves cured the problem.
My policy also! LOL!Advise given here is free and comes with no warranty "Caveat emptor"
Yes you put a hose on the bleeder nipple. Brake Fluid is nasty stuff. Its best to keep it off your hands and off your bike as it can stain metal and cause plastic to become britlle and break. The other end of the hose goes into a bottle to catch any fluid that comes out. If I remember correctly the bleeder valve needs an 8mm wrench. Its usually best to put the wrench on the bleeder valve and then the hose and then break the valve loose before removing the caliper. Use a box end wrench or a flare nut wrench, never an open end. The reason for using the hose other than avoiding a making a mess is to prevent air from getting into the system. As long as you do not allow an open bleeder valve to be exposed to air you will not have to bleed the brakes. Hope this helps!Hi FGH....
Can you please explain put a 'hose on the brake bleeder'... is that a tube over the nipple?? and where does the hose / tube go to or from?? do you then also have to bleed the brakes again??.. Sorry for the questions I just want to make sure that I understand the procedure... Thanks,
Eric
Thanks guys I cleaned the left hand side one with soap water but had to re-build the right hand side one. Wheel is now turning as it should.......
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