Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner
Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
303 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I notcied tonight after installing the new "used" speedo sensor that the front wheel shaft was loose. I dropped the wheel and the shaft was only hand tight. I toqued every down to specs. Once done I shock the handle bars and notice the front wheel had just a tiny bit of play, should it have any?
Now since I found the shaft loose I'm concerned about the bearings? Do they have to pressed on or can I replace all the bearings in my garage without a press? Thanks Ron
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
I'm about to have to do bearings on mine. I'd like to know this as well.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,163 Posts
The bearings are an interference fit and need to be "tapped" out. There is a spacer collar between the bearings that can be a PITA to move to one side and knock the bearings out with a drift. I use a pro motion feather and wedge tool to extract.
Installing the bearings is relatively easy. A large socket on the OUTSIDE of the bearing will generally seat it. Make sure your axle is consistent in diameter and not worn were the bearing will rest. Lube your speedo drive while you're there. It needs it. Torque the axle nut.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,046 Posts
You can make a tool to remove the bearings. On my 83 if I remember correctly the axle is 15mm. I found that a fine thread 5/8" nut would fit in with very little play. I got the bolt and a nut and threaded the nut on. Then took the Dremel and cut a slot in the threaded end large enough to start a 6" cold chisel in it. Make sure there is enough of the bolt exposed so that it extends into the bearing inner race to the inside edge. Turn the wheel on its side with the nut head on a hard surface. Take the chisel and drive it into the slot you cut in the nut. Stand the wheel up and give the chisel another good whack. The bearing on the spacer will pop out. Get a drift and knock the bearing on the other side out. After you install one new bearing use the axle to keep the spacer aligned as you install the other bearing.

Hope this helps!
 

·
Junior Grue
Joined
·
8,153 Posts
The old bearings must be pulled straight out and the new ones pressed straight in or else you run the risk of stretching the bearing bore.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
224 Posts
When you put the new bearing, pry off the cover and fill the inside with grease and then put the cover back on. This will help to make the bearing last longer. When you get them opened up you will be surprised on how little grease is on the inside. I just put the new bearing in with a hammer all of the time.Just make sure that you put them in straight.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
62 Posts
Anybody besides me ever use an expandable concrete anchor to remove wheel bearings? You tighten it inside the axle hole, then just drive the whole works out. The trick is finding one that fits the hole...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
303 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks, I'll order some new bearings, I have changed car seals before sound about the same.
Also should there be any play in the front wheel. Since I tighten the front hub the bike hanldes better ;)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,091 Posts
Anybody besides me ever use an expandable concrete anchor to remove wheel bearings? You tighten it inside the axle hole, then just drive the whole works out. The trick is finding one that fits the hole...
That's how I do it. I had to 'customize' the anchor a tad but it works OK to pull the first bearing out. The second one comes out easily. Put new bearings in by hammering with a socket that's just smaller than the bore the outer race fits in. Something nobody has mentioned but I think is important is getting the side-tension right. I think it's also the trickiest part. Hammer the first bearing in 'til it seats. Put in the spacer. Hammer in the second bearing but go slow as it approaches the spacer. You want it to just touch the spacer but not be under side tension. If it is, the bearing won't like it and the wheel will bind.
Tprender - greasing is not necessary with new, sealed bearings. They are correctly lubed-for-life from the factory. A little grease on the oil seal (which these days is only a dust seal) will help to keep the seal alive and not dig into the spacer.

I just did the front wheel bearings on my GL1500 and ordered All-Balls for the first time. They're inexpensive, come with necessary seals and are top-notch. That's what I'll be ordering in the future.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,046 Posts
Anybody besides me ever use an expandable concrete anchor to remove wheel bearings? You tighten it inside the axle hole, then just drive the whole works out. The trick is finding one that fits the hole...
I like that method. I'll keep it in mind for next time. THANKS!!!
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top