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95 Aspencade SE
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So having completed work on the issues on the front end of my 95 SE I moved to the rear of the bike to begin the process of replacing the rear tire.

The last guy that worked on the bike must have used a 1 inch heavy duty truck impact gun to install the axle nut on the right side. I tried using an automotive grade impact gun to remove the nut - No luck.

Next I tried a 1/2 " drive breaker bar with a 4' pipe attached for leverage and all that managed to accomplish was to spin the axle in the pinch bolt on the left side.

Having tried those two I gave the nut and threads a good bath of PB blaster and left them to soak overnight. Will respray once or twice this evening as well.

I can get a screw driver in the hole on the opposite end of the axle but there is not much for the screw driver to butt up against on that side of the bike.

The nut is supposed to be torqued to 80 Ft Lbs Only and I regularly break that free on my cars wheels so this nut must have some gawd awful amount of torque applied to it when last installed.

Anyone run across this before and have a good solution?

I considered heating the nut but unsure about heating the nut in the proximity of aluminum casing and seals etc.

Thanks in advance.
 

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Heat it, you won't hurt anything unless you get it seriously too hot.
 

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I can get a screw driver in the hole on the opposite end of the axle but there is not much for the screw driver to butt up against on that side of the bike.

Make sure the pinch bolt is plenty tight. If you put a pipe over the screwdriver and let the pipe butt against the floor. Now put your socket and pipe on the other side so the 2 pipes ar 90 degrees from parallel. Then when you push down on the right side the pipe will push down on the left side.
Does that make sense?
 

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95 Aspencade SE
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Double post....
Yes it is on this and one other GW forum - Seriously need an answer. Will go with heat if the PB Blaster has not solved the problem in the morning.
 

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Use a longer pipe,are the bags off,it went on so it’s gotta come off,that bad is way too tight,Cat diesel main bearings are torqued to 3000 pounds,requires a pipe six foot long
 

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1991 GL1500 Interstate Cinnamon Beige
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Use the screwdriver through the hole as you did earlier AND block the screwdriver from turning with a short(ish) 2X4. As you turn the axle nut counterclockwise, the block should be on the "rearward" side of the frame behind the rear brake caliper area. You're right to let the "penetrating" fluid have a good amount of time to work.
 

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I would use a pipe wrench to hold the axle from turning. If it's that tight you'll probably bend the screw driver. You might leave a mark on the axle. Rap a rag around the axle head before using the pipe wrench. Desperate measures call for all out attempts.
 

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Yes it is on this and one other GW forum - Seriously need an answer. Will go with heat if the PB Blaster has not solved the problem in the morning.
No....I meant I accidently double posted the same answer. Don't ask me how. :unsure:
 

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It aint rocket science
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Beginning to sound like it has a good dose of red threadlock on it.
 

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It takes a little over 200*f to release thread locker.

Again, use Heat. A propane torch for a couple minutes going around the nut should do it. Be careful, the penetrating oil will catch on fire.

When you heat the nut it expands a little and will come off easier. No need to heat it red.

David
 

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95 Aspencade SE
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35 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Update

Ok so spent this morning fighting with this seized nut. So far score is owner 0 Nut 12. Argghh!

After soaking overnight with PB Blaster tried the impact on a cold nut - no joy.

Then went to breaker bar with a 4' extension with the axle prevented from turning by a punch supported by a 2x4 going to the shop floor. All that managed to do was lift the entire bike such that had I continued it would have tipped over.

Next was several application of heat from mild to Cherry red nut - still no joy.

Will give it one more go and if no luck will cut the nut off with a zip cutter.

Would love to be able to talk to the gorilla that put this together last time - prior to my purchase.

Stay tumed.
 

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Update

Ok so spent this morning fighting with this seized nut. So far score is owner 0 Nut 12. Argghh!

After soaking overnight with PB Blaster tried the impact on a cold nut - no joy.

Then went to breaker bar with a 4' extension with the axle prevented from turning by a punch supported by a 2x4 going to the shop floor. All that managed to do was lift the entire bike such that had I continued it would have tipped over.

Next was several application of heat from mild to Cherry red nut - still no joy.

Will give it one more go and if no luck will cut the nut off with a zip cutter.

Would love to be able to talk to the gorilla that put this together last time - prior to my purchase.

Stay tumed.
I think you might have done better if you used the punch and a pipe that was real long. Then the sownward force of you turning would be pushing the bike down instead of trying to lift it.
As a heavy duty mechanic I have used this technique while standing on a 9 foot pipe. Just be sure you push straight down and not sideways. Don't want to tip the bike. :oops:
 

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Ok, I have never seen a red hot nut not turn. If you can get it red again, take a punch and whack the flats. One or more, However many you can. This will stretch the nut and it will spin right off.
Usually when a nut is red it will come off, even if it galls the threads.


You are so close!
 

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95 Aspencade SE
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Final Update. - After trying all suggested methods (thank you to all who offered suggestions) I finally have the axle out, wheel removed and tire changed.

I ended up having to sacrifice the nut and axle as seen in the photo.

As you can imagine the axle is now missing some notable amount of threads as well. Even after having cut that much of the nut away I still had to use the breaker with a 4' bar to get the damn thing to release.

I have never in 40 years of pulling wrenches seen a seized fastener like this. One for the books - At least my book.

Now off to source a replacement axle and nut.



324048
 

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Now off to source a replacement axle and nut.
Where are you?


Really, looking at the picture, all you really need is a new nut. The only reason that nut was still tight is you didn't get it cut all the way so it didn't relax enough. Many axles for trailers, etc as well as suspension parts have flats at threads, there's not a lot of stress on that axle.
 

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02 GL1800 w/Auto Pilot
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Where are you?


Really, looking at the picture, all you really need is a new nut. The only reason that nut was still tight is you didn't get it cut all the way so it didn't relax enough. Many axles for trailers, etc as well as suspension parts have flats at threads, there's not a lot of stress on that axle.
he is in Canada,
Nelson, British Columbia, Canada
95 1500SE
 

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95 Aspencade SE
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I did consider doing only a nut job but in the end decided i would be happeir with an unmolested axle as well.
 
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