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I have treated with WS40 and heat, still won't budge..any other ideas before I break it off??? GOT IT!!!!! out

Also in trying to remove the muffler guard..frozen phillips head now has a broken easy out in the shaft..again three came out the fourth ##@@@!!!..
 

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Just thinking out loud here but maybe try going the opposite direction and "cooling" the area around the plug?

I used to work in a perforating plant and we would have to "unjam" one machine by cooling the connecting rods with dry ice and that would do the trick.

Wouldn't cooling cause the area around the plug and the plug body to contract some?

Then again I may not know what I'm talking about but what would it hurt?:baffled:
 

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Got the last plug to break lose this A.M. after a night of soaking and some more heat..

Now anyone got any tricks for an easy out stuck in a bolt that is recessed in a chrome piece that you don't want to ruin. I am working on the chrome accent on a horseshoe muffler with one attaching bolt frozen with an easy out broke off in it.

 

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After soaking and/or heating try to tighten it then try removal.
 

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I suppose I would have to see it , but a broken easy out in a fastener , leaves the word easy long behind. :D You cannot drill it , it does complicate things. I suppose if there is room I would get a long narrow chisel and sharpen it good and split and cut head of the screw off , remove the chrome piece(if you do skin it a bit you can put a washer between the new fastener and the piece you wish to save. Then worry about the remainder of the screw later.

If there is any space around the thing at all......and if you have a wire feed welder , you can weld a metal rod to the whole business and back it out, the heat of welding will loosen the fastener and a good pair of channel locks will turn the rod.......

Or you could just shoot it. Sometimes I have to just walk away from something for a day, it exasperates me too much for that day. :cheeky1::action: Kit
 

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For the spark plugs.... I have worked with aluminum heads for over 30 years. I feel it is a good tip to put a "little" anti-seize material on the spark plug threads. This will solve the locked plug problem. By little, I mean about a dot the size of a head of a pin is all that is needed. Just a slight film. With anti-seize it is not "the more the better". Too much can cause misfire by insolating the spark. Just a bit will make tune-ups fun again
 

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Kit..thanks for the ideas..that's my task for now in between trying to cleanup really trashed carbs and gas tank coated with tar and rust.



I like the welding idea but no welder and as to chiseling the head off..there's jsut no room to get at it with the chrome piece there.

 

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Well on that one now that I can see it, I would try an impact driver , just for a bit, might take a sharp chisel and cut across the head and make new slots, then try the impact driver, if it did not work right away, would not waste much time on it, and get out the little dremel grinder and just grind the whole head off, working from the outside and around it , staying away from the easy out part just take the whole head off. You can use a small drill bit carefully and drill about 4 holes in just the head part to speed up the process. Take a sharp point punch and make some small starting holes so the drill bit will not walk and just drill the head full of holes. By then a small sharp chisel may just pop the head off in pieces, if not the small hobby grinder with a small cutter head will finish it off.

Good luck on those floats!!!

Kit
 

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The dremel tool worked for me. I had the exact problem on my bike only i didnt try the easy out. I dont like those when your dealing with the small ones. You can buy a dremel and bits for about 70 bucks. Then carefully grind off the head. I had enough bolt left and put some PB on it let it set and vise grips took it out. Hope this helps.
 

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You can also use a cutting wheel on the dremel tool to put a notch in the head of the bolt. Then use a flat blade screwdriver to try and back it out. A flat blade has more bite then a Phillips.

burt
 

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if you have not stripped out the head yet, get a impact driver that fits the screw correctly, and then put some valve grinding compound on the screwdriver tip and into the screwhead. It might help if the mufflers were warm.
 

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My vote is for he dremel tool. Get a grinding cone and remove the head.
 

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Well it looks like I have some options I will work on it today and let you know how I do.
 

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I was able to "drill" out a broken easy out from a Ford F-150 water pump fiasco using a needle bit and a dremel tool once.
 

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Might be difficult to get a dremel down into whre the head of the screw is :baffled:
 
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