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Hello to all!... This is not exactly a new post. but rather a update from two weeks ago. When i found myself wrenching, polishing the the gararge floor with my jeans, and talking like a sailor @#% at the start of a fuel tank removal project.Boy! they sure knew how to "cram" a fuel tank between the top frame rails! i mean, it was friction tight! plus fastners. Well i chose to perform a electloysis cleaning if the tank. this went very well at getting embeded rust loose from the inside.. The next thing i did was to dump about 4 pounds of 1 inch drywall screws into the tank along with about a gallon of water... I chose to use drywall screws because thet do have sharp edges that can scrape away at the inside of the tank. after about 15 min of shaking turning, more shaking and building up my biceps i drained out the tank. Out came some of the worst reddish/brown gunk you've ever laid eyes on!. Then, more turning and shaking, only without any water this time. refilled the tank to the top and drained again. less gunk that time. And again one more time with water and screws. drain.. running clear now. arms are tired!. lol I removed all the screws... I turned tank over to drain for a bit. while draining i went and borrowed the wife's hair dryer. When drained, i positioned the the dryer over the opening for the tank sending unit, set the blow dryer to "HIGHHEAT" Let run for a good hour. Time for inspection: The tank was as bright inside. gone was the build up of varnish and rust. internal fuel screens were shiny clean! Last step: Blast the inde if the tank with a lot of WD-40.. rotated tank around to be sure WD-40 got onto all areas inside the tank so to prevent immediate rust formation. Plan for the future: Use Marvel Mystery Oil from now on every time i fuel the bike!. And top off the tank each time before heading home after any ride.... I beleive the use of drywall screws to scub out the tank is much more effective than BB's.. BB's are round and have no "scraping action" to them. I also used a piece of old clutch cable to "root out" the petcock lines on a cordless drill.( Sort of like a drain snake) it worked really well. Where i once just had a "dribble" i now have full flow of fuel at the main outlet and reserve. The lack of money to pay a shop to perform needed work. Is my motivation to create ways that effectively get the job done!. It was a hard job. but i have a bike that runs as it should now. I chose to follow the recomendation at "Randak's" to simply add 4oz's MMO to the tank at fill up instead of using a tank coating. That way, i wont be the one worrying about when the coating will start to come off.. And with the "new" stage two fuels that are dispensed at the pump, the higher alcohol content in these fuels are going to cause these "tank coatings" to fail over time. So, my friends, the last few days into my project and the completion of it have been educational, to say the least!.. RIDE ON !...... Ride safe..

Knowbuddy lobabooby at yahoo.com

Edited email to stop trolls
 

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Piaggio MP3, was 02 GL1800
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Great post, and hope you have many Smiles in the future.
 

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Thanks for this! I'm planning to do my tank (1100) this winter. Thought that only electrolyses would be enough, but apparantly its more than that.
 

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GREAT IDEA! When I had my old '79 GL1000 [for over 10 years], saw rust in tank as OEM coating had failed. Tried Creme coating but it was a mess, partially plugged fuel lines, didn't last very long before coming loose in places. Your cleaning process is Yankee Ingenuity at it's Best, A++! TTFN.....papasmurf
P.S. Wish I'd know of this when I had old '79 Wing!
 
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