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As some long term members know, I have replaced the dogbones on my LTD with regular ATO type fuse holders. Problem is, that they only last about a year or so, before they show signs of problems, as in the main fuse melts on one side, with associated corrosion in the holder. Does anyone know if there is a heavier duty unit than what is normally available at your local auto parts house? I would prefer one with heavier gauge wiring that may last better. These bikes have a huge electrical load on the primary side, so when the main fuse goes, it isnt pretty.
 

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Replace it with a 30 amp blade type fuse holder from auto parts store. It will have a 30 amp blade type fuse under a rubber cap and wiring rated at more than 30 amps. For mounting solder the terminals on the fuse holder wires, not just crimp.
 

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Thats what I have been doing and am still having issues with the heat on the solenoid side of the fuse, it doesnt seem to be a current issue, as the fuse doesnt blow till the housing melts, but it sure is acting "odd". Ill see if i can get some pics here of it. or if i canned the bad fuse



OK, here are some pics of the fuse, the holder, and post-mortem inside the holder. This thing is burned up good, the fuse is showing signs of heat damage after a whopping 10 miles of use. there are no other signs of problems with the electrical system, so I am tempted to say that it was a bad connection at the fuse block. Problem is, that this is the strongest rated block that I can get locally, and it isnt the first one that fails in the exact same manner.







 

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I used to have it wired across there, until I had another wiring problem. now it attaches to the terminal where the battery cable goes (top of the solenoid) but corrosion is not an issue there.
 

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I am guessing that you have the fuse inline with the starter. The Starter circuit is not fused. When you start the bike is probably when you get the heat in the fuse holder.

Read Tricky's article above.

1. Power should go from battery positive post, large cable, to the solenoid and to oneside ofthe30 amp fuse. The other side of the 30 amp fuse is connected to the Red wire and Red with white tracer wirein the 4 pin connector on top of the solenoid.

2. The other large cable connects the solenoid to the Starter.
 

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I swapped a blade fuse holder rated 30 amps on a KZ1000 and found it getting hot and showing signs of burning where the wire was crimped to the connector. Since it's covered with rubber you can't see the crimp. Mine was discoloring the rubber. They didn't look foreign made either. I ended up buying heavy angle blade connectors and soldering.

When I bought both `Wings I didn't mess with the auto store pre-made fuse holders. I hope others have better luck.

From the other thread... http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/view_topic.php?id=70117&forum_id=1&highlight=fuse+holder
 

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I have been using the same fuse and holder for about the past 6-7 years.

It is a weather proof holder rated at 30 amp.

I wonder if the one shown in the picture is allowing weather to get at the contacts and that why it is over heating.
 

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I had read the other thread, Mike. I will inspect the one on my 1983 and see if it is burned, been hot, or corroded in the socket. Could be some 30 amp fuse holders are not made well, I guess. I did burn some wiring last fall in the fan circuits but did not affect the 30 amp fuse or fuse holder.
I would like to know exactly how ScottInNV has his connections made.
 

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Like GSMclean said in the other post Make sure it's rated for at least 30 amps, with 12-guage wire.
I've had one of these in my bike for 3 years with no problems. You may have a short somewhere. I also put dialetric grease on the fuse blades before inserting them.
 

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From the little I know about automotive wiring, the rule of thumb in a circuit is to use a fuse that is rated for 10% to 15% above the expected amperage. Another factor to consider is the amperage output of the alternator. As all know, the Compufire puts out quite a bit more amperage than a stock unit. Finally, 12 gauge wire is good for about 41 amps of current while 5 gauge wire is good for about 118 amps of current. I hope this helps when diagnosing and designing wiring harnesses.
 

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I just replaced my dogbone with a blade type. The wires that ran through the dogbone are 10 ga. and the wires from the new blade type were only 12 ga. Rather than solder the 10 & 12 ga together I took apart the fuse holder and crimped plug ends to the 10 ga already on the bike and inserted them in the fuse holder. The wires that come with the fuse holder are only crimped to the blade receptors as it is so I figure I just eliminated 2 possible weak points (soldered wire on each side of the holder).
 

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wpgfire wrote:
I just replaced my dogbone with a blade type. The wires that ran through the dogbone are 10 ga. and the wires from the new blade type were only 12 ga. Rather than solder the 10 & 12 ga together I took apart the fuse holder and crimped plug ends to the 10 ga already on the bike and inserted them in the fuse holder. The wires that come with the fuse holder are only crimped to the blade receptors as it is so I figure I just eliminated 2 possible weak points (soldered wire on each side of the holder).
Smart move wpdfire.
 

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wpgfire wrote:
I just replaced my dogbone with a blade type. The wires that ran through the dogbone are 10 ga. and the wires from the new blade type were only 12 ga. Rather than solder the 10 & 12 ga together I took apart the fuse holder and crimped plug ends to the 10 ga already on the bike and inserted them in the fuse holder. The wires that come with the fuse holder are only crimped to the blade receptors as it is so I figure I just eliminated 2 possible weak points (soldered wire on each side of the holder).
Smart move wpdfire.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
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ok, I have once again, replaced the holder. Its a unit from Littelfuse (brand from Checkers here in the USA) this one has a cap over the fuse, but i dont think that was the underlying issue with the old one ( we dont get much moisture here in AZ to cause corrosion like what was seen here) My personal feelings are that they are made to just barely handle the load, and not much else. I will be looking into getting a better fuse setup for the bike, as this one has almost left me walking today (good thing the EFI runs on a separate 30 amp fuse ( and no signs of problems with this circuit either EVER)
 

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Wichita Scorpion wrote:
I had read the other thread, Mike. I will inspect the one on my 1983 and see if it is burned, been hot, or corroded in the socket. Could be some 30 amp fuse holders are not made well, I guess. I did burn some wiring last fall in the fan circuits but did not affect the 30 amp fuse or fuse holder.
I would like to know exactly how ScottInNV has his connections made.
connections are all soldered in for the fuse holder, with the standard ring terminal connecting to the battery side of the soleniod. All wires are 10 ga or better throughout the charging circuits. I work as an electronics technician, so I know the value of a good soldered joint as opposed to a crimped in connection. No other sites in the wiring show issues, just this one side of the fuse holder. that is what has piqued my curiosity
 

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Sorry Scott, for getting more detailed than you needed. A lot of members are not experienced with schematicsor electronics.
I am at a loss on your problem. Would like to know if the new one works out over time.
If you are making some trips you might want tocarry a spare made up just in case.
Sorry we couldn't come up with better information.:baffled:
 

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ScottInNV wrote:
ok, I have once again, replaced the holder. Its a unit from Littelfuse (brand from Checkers here in the USA) this one has a cap over the fuse, but i dont think that was the underlying issue with the old one ( we dont get much moisture here in AZ to cause corrosion like what was seen here) My personal feelings are that they are made to just barely handle the load, and not much else. I will be looking into getting a better fuse setup for the bike, as this one has almost left me walking today (good thing the EFI runs on a separate 30 amp fuse ( and no signs of problems with this circuit either EVER)
Here is a photo of one I got from Carquest to replace mine. Sorry its crappy I used cell phone to take it. From the photo it looks like its a little more robust then the destroyed one you show.



Part number is: FHAC2BP and it cost me $4.59 +tax, of course.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
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That is the style that I have in there now on teh main fuse, and also what I have on the 30 amp EFI fuse. I will keep the board updated on the "robustness" of this one.
 

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Wichita Scorpion wrote:
Sorry Scott, for getting more detailed than you needed. A lot of members are not experienced with schematicsor electronics.
I am at a loss on your problem. Would like to know if the new one works out over time.
If you are making some trips you might want tocarry a spare made up just in case.
Sorry we couldn't come up with better information.:baffled:
Not a problem, I can appreciate that, I was mostly interested if others had issues with poor quality fuse holders as well.
 
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