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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have just purchased a 85 limited edition the battery will not stay charged. I ran the stator test and if I did it right the stator is good as all three readings were close or the same. The Honda electrical trouble shooting guide I have says if all three readings are close or the same then replace the regulator/rectifier.
Before I go out and spend 75.00 to 140.00 on a replacement I am seeking advice from those who know. Right now it will not stay running when I disconnect the ground cable from the battery.
Any help would be much appreciated. There are still a few more good ridding days left here in Central Missouri.
Thanks in advance Ed
 

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Junior Grue
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Right now it will not stay running when I disconnect the ground cable from the battery.
Never ever disconnect the battery with the engine running.

Besides the likelihood of frying your regulator there's always the possibility of a battery explosion which is not pretty.
 

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Still Learning
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Ed

While waiting for a reply from the LTD guys, use the forum search, 85 LTD charging. There are posts on which one to get.
 

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1985 GL1200 Limited Edition
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First make sure you have your battery tested to make sure it's good. Next here's the stator test I post for people:

Stator Test
1- First, put the bike on the centerstand. Cut the wires on both sides of the stator connector plug. Strip the insulation aprox. 1/2"-1" back on all three yellow wires. Label each wire A, B, and C.
NOTE: When using an analog type meter to check for shorts or open circuit's have the meter set to R x 1 scale. A "short" circuit condition, (a continuos electrical path to ground), is indicated by the meter needle sweeping across the meter guage face to 0 ohms resistance. An "open" circuit condition, (no electrical path to ground) is indicated by no movement of the meter needle, infinite resistance. Using a digital meter the reading should be: for a short - 0 ohms, and for an open condition - infinite resistance which normaly there will be no change in the meter reading..
2- With a multimeter, digital or analog, set to read resistance, check each leg to ground for short's. If no short's are found, (o resistance), you're good to go so far.
3- With the meter set to read resistance, check across each leg. A to B, B to C, then C to A. The reading's should be about 3 ohm's. If you read infinite resistance across any of the legs you have an open winding and the stator is bad. If they read good, keep going.
4- A helper is good to have for this next step. With the battery fully charged and the three yellow wire's separated so they cannot make contact, crank the bike. Have your helper rev the bike to 3000rpm after the bike warm's up.
IMPORTANT!!!
You are checking for AC voltage NOT DC voltage!! Make sure the meter is set to read a minimum of 120vac!!
With the bike at 3000rpm, check leg A to B. Note the voltage.
Then check leg B to C. Note the voltage.
Finaly check leg C to A. Note the voltage.
Compare the three readings. They should be between 50-70vac plus or minus about 5vac per leg. If they read good, chances are you've got a bad regulator.


Finally, if you've determined that the stator is indeed good and need a regulator, get the OEM Shindengen model. It's the only model that will last for you!

Here ya go:

http://www.regulatorrectifier.com/c...ng-GL1200-Limited-Edition-Regulator-Rectifier
 

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