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Well,I tried with Sea Foam and B12to solve my carb problems. No go. I pulled the carbs today on my 1999 GL1500 SE. Glad I did. Plenty gooey, they really need cleaning. Vacuum hoses look great. Anyway, getting into it the Pilot Screw is circular with one flat side, no slot. What kind of tool is needed to screw this out and where can I get one? Also, looking down the road to synching the carbs, where can I get a barb to hook my vacuum guage hoseup to on the right side of the manifold in place of the plug screw? Where can I get one and what is the correct thread count and size? Thanks and thanks for all the earlier input regarding Sea Foam etc..
 

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Anyway, getting into it the Pilot Screw is circular with one flat side, no slot. What kind of tool is needed to screw this out and where can I get one?



what i used, i have no idea what it's called. it was a scissors kinda, long and when you close them they lock. it's medical purpose.

i think some people used this item to smoke their herbs:cheeky1:

i doubt this made any sense but hopefully someone smarter will understand what i'm describing. they will work for sure.



as for the barb for carb sync. do not know where to get those. i bought whole set of gauges from jc whitney



hope this helped and not confused you.



called hemastats i was told



mark:byebye:
 

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You dont need to remove the pilot screws to clean the carbs in fact its better you dont as you will need an other taco graph to set them again as the bike one is not accurate enough plus you could easily damage the screw or the screw seat as it had a very fragile tip
 

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:waving:I bought a set of four vaccuum gauges and it had all the necessary bits and pieces to connect to the carbs. They didn't need adjustment anyway after 10 years.
 

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I made my hose bards. I used some 3/4" or 1" long x #32x8 brass screws and nuts. Drilled a 1/16" hole thru them. Screwed them in several turns, then snugged up the nut finger tight only. The head of the screw acted as the barb that I slipped the hose over. They worked good, and I didn't even have to wait for anything to show up in the mail.

John
 

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Also, since you have the carb off the bike, "balance" the carb while off.

That is, think of this carb as a car 2 barrel carb. You do not need to balance these carbs because of the 2 stationary throttle plates on a single shaft. This is not the case for the1500 carb. The 1500 linkages are basicallyindependent of each other thus requireing them to bebalance.

You can adjust the carb mechanical and get them really close, and the final sync may be minimal to nill. No to say you may need to periodically perform future adjustments.

I use a big cheap Harbor Freight single gauge. I do not know where it is at, but the saying is with HF: it cheap enough and if you use if once you got your monies worth.

Barb? There are two tubes, one on each side of the intake manifolds to attach a vacuum hose/line.
 

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Found two Emgo vacuum guages on E-bay with attachments for $34 delivered to my porch. That should solve the "barb" or vac attachment issue. Got into the carbs, what a mess. I was told the bike hadn't been ridden in 15 months. From the looks of the carbs it was more like 36 months and ethanol. Bought carb kits from Sonic Consolidated out of Canada. They were Keyster kits. Nice kits for $39 each. Could have included four more o-rings. One for the needle jet (same size as the slow jet), 2 for the accelerator pipe and one for where the accelerator pump attaches to the carb. Other than that the rebuild went smooth. Will put it back in the bike tomorrow... BTW, the drilled screw solutions sounds smart. Damn if I hadn't thought of that.... maybe add an o-ring and you'd be all set....
 

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The honda tool to adjust the pilot screws is Part # 07MMA-MT3010B. It's about a foot long and is designed to reach in from over the top of the radiators. The length doesn't matter when you have the carbs out, but when you are trying to make the adjustment on a running bike, you need that length.

This tool has a sheath like part that goes around the shaft. It is separate, and it is not needed for the 1500. So if the dealer offers it, decline it.


http://www.hrot.org/martino/carb/carb3.htm
 

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Wolfman, great pictures! You're right, the #4green hose to the front right of the air cleaner is a real bear to re-attach. The way I finally did it (after 1 1/2 hours)was to pull the puppy up as much as possible and secure it with a zip tie. Then I held open the darn clamp with a small vicegrip pliers and set it over the hose. Then, I placed the air cleaner hose neck in the air cleaner box over this setup and pushed her down. Of course this was the first hose I attached. Once the neck was down far enough I released the vicegrip pliers and that was that. I forgot to cut the zip tie, but no big deal. Everything matched up great.
 
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