Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner

General price 1998 SE's are going for.....

2144 Views 26 Replies 20 Participants Last post by  trj827
I've got a 1998 Goldwing SE with 38,000 and had to put it down opposed to t-boning a lady that made a left right in front of me. Right side of fairing is toast and right radiator is smashed. Engine runs fine but leaks the fluid. Her insurance company is only offering 5300.00 ...but that doesn't seem right and is this worth repairing ....they are totaling it out but the damage doesn't seem that I'll need to replace it if this one is not worth repairing.
Not open for further replies.
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
when I bought my 99 se I looked for three months before I decided on one, they were all ranging between 6500 and 8500, so I think that is a low number, I don't know what blue book is, after you settle with insurance you might want to buy the bike back
i payed $5700 for my 98 with 63,000 miles
The rule of thumb is NEVER ACCEPT THE FIRST OFFER. Give them a counter offer for settlement. I've never heard of an insurance company that wouldn't bargain. They usually give you a low ball offer. Twice I've had cars damaged in accidents (not my fault) and twice two different insurance companies low balled me. In both cases they finally settled for about 1 1/2 times what the initially offered. It helped when I told then I really didn't want to bring a lawyer into it. List any options and accessories the bike has and make sure to mention how low its mileage is for its age. It wouldn't hurt to include some Craigslist prices in your area and eBay prices of similar 1500s.
They didnt tell you what it was worth when they said an extra $300 for full coverage did they

Have your bikes appraised, your collector car appraised
then when the lawyers come in you have proof

My favorite was when they totaled my 78 ford truck
Heres your check for 10k, you want to buy it? thats a lot of good parts- $15k
If it went down at an speed, there is probably a lot more damage than there appears to be. Goldwings have zillions of little parts, and many of them could be damaged. But just because they are small does not mean they are cheap. Since I don't have any specific information or parts prices, I'd have to guess that it probably is totaled, from a financial perspective. But the insurance company should come up with a much better offer than that, I'd say at least $1500 more, more like $2000 more. I would not accept their first offer. Mention "lawyer" to them. Watch their offer go up.

As for buying it back, that is usually a bad deal. It can turn out to be a real nightmare trying to repair it yourself, and used 1500 parts are a lot cheaper on eBay than four cylinder parts, so even parting it out might not be profitable.

If it were me I would get a better offer, buy another nice bike, and give them that one. But, my circumstances are probably a lot different than yours.

I had my 1972 Pinto wagon appraised and insured for $6000.
See less See more
My 99 was $6200 a little over a year ago. Most of them on ebay are going for more than that yet but it is getting close.
A guy I ride with hit a deer and laid his 2000 S.E. 1500 down on the interstate a few years ago. It had 235,000 miles on it, but he convinced the insurance company it was worth $7,800.

I didn't have the SE, but I sold my '98 wing this spring for $4,500. I didn't get many calls on it. I don't know if it was the late spring, we were still getting snow in April, or the 104,000 miles, but I needed to sell 'cause of the 2013 I bought.
pain and suffering....15k minimum. I bet they give it to you honestly
If they total it BUY IT BACK, it should be LOW. If you don't want it, let me know the buy back price and I may buy it, I need 1500 parts or maybe I'd fix it myself.

Yep, Insurance will rip you off if they can. I finally had to settle for $3500 as a total on my 88 from the deer hit last year. Tired of arguing with them and it was costing me to have it sitting there not able to ride it.
Buy back was $200 for my 88 1500.

I had about $1k in busted extra's and the mint bike, and $3500 was for everything!

Course I was rather at their mercy on this deer hit, I can't sue a deer! If it had been a vehicle accident I could have brought into play talk of lawsuit and lawyers and probably gotten allot more.

If there was no real impact to anything other than laying it down it may be fine, though engine leaking fluids does not sound good. As long as no frame damage it should be worth fixing up unless the engine got busted. If no impact then wheel, forks, frame, etc.. should all be fine though should be checked. If the front end hit anything then of course all that stuff needs checked well for damage.

Just curious also, if radiator got smashed could the engine just be covered in coolant and that's running off? What's leaking, oil or coolant? Do you know where it is coming from?

Just have to guess not having seen the bike myself but if a simple lay down and slide then it should be fixable though may be lots of work and maybe not cheap, if engine is not busted.

Unless you have a personal attachment to this bike, keeping the wreck and passing it on or using as a project yourself, and just replacing it now with another bike to ride now might be best option.
If you fix it yourself it may not cost to awful much, if you need to have a shop repair it for you it's probably going to cost too much!
See less See more
I paid 7k for my 1998SE 14 months ago with 28,000 miles on it with brand new Dunlop EIII's. Now is has 38,000 miles on it and I wouldn't sell it for a million! :wtf: I like it that much!!
The cost on these repairs can be truly amazing. I bounced off the tail light of a PU in my 2002 1800. The only damage was to the left side of the fairing, including a busted radiator just like yours. No engine, frame, fork, windshield, or crash bar damage of any kind.

Cost the insurance company $8,000 to repair in 2010.
Been there,done that.Dont accept their first offer.Stick to the price you need to replace it.They will blow smoke up your assistance and tell you they can buy that bike for next to nothing.Tell them to bring you one of the cheap ones they're talking about and you'll look at it.It will never show and then the broker will say I'm going on holidays and I want to settle this,what will make you happy?If the bike is still where they towed it to after the accident don't let them move it until you settle on a price.They will want to haul it off to bike salvage place so they don't have to pay storage.Don't let them,you still own it until you sett,e on a price.JMHO.
I paid more than I wanted to last fall for the nicest late model 1500 ('98SE) I could find for sale in the western states...$8700. Bike was in perfect condition with under 8k miles. I don't think that was a bargain, but I haven't regretted the purchase either. It appeared to me that on average at that time a guy would have to pay anywhere from $5500 on up for a decent 1500 and the nice ones were in the $6500+ range.

Do your own research and document what it will cost to replace your bike with like kind and quality. Use online ads, dealer appraisals, and any other means you can come up with. Don't let the insurance company lowball you, but be prepared to take a reasonable settlement.
Thanks for the replies however I got them to bump it up to $6200.00 of which I'm still not happy with as I informed them to find me a bike I could purchase with what they were offering me to make me WHOLE again since this was my main mode of transportation. Since mine was a local purchase to include shipping costs if they were not able to locate one locally with mileage under 38,000. I have since talked to my lawyer which informed me not to accept their offer since they have responded quickly for me to accept their counter offer. I have one I am looking at however he wants 7500.00 and his bike has 14,000 and it's not too far away. I'm hoping he doesn't sell it and will accept my counter offer of 7100.00 otherwise I'll just save the money and get a 1800....curious tho and hoping someone can help me with this the 1800's have reverse or was that something only for the 1500's? I went back to riding my 1200 and it's a beast turning it around in my small garage....and my bad knee's and hip don't make it any easier I got from putting it down.
See less See more
I've been hunting for a bike for awhile now and SE's that year seem to range from $6000-$8500 and sometimes up to $10,000 for low mileage spotless ones from dealers. You can check KBB for trade-in and retails prices. But your right it sounds like her insurance company is trying to lowball you. But from what I understand this is how they do business.

I'm not sure if I'd buy the bike back off of them. Granted the damage doesn't seem to extensive but if you ever go to sell it or trade it in on another bike it will be harder to get rid of. When I see the word "salvage" mentioned I immendiately go to the next bike. And I would never buy a salvaged bike.

**edit** checked KBB and it says $7,130 retail. Your lawyer is making sense but I'm guessing the higher they go the longer they will drag there feet in paying you. Good luck with the settlement and finding another bike. Dunno about 1800's and reverse. Like you I'm considering an 1800 now. Started off with a certain budget in mind but buying an 1800 would surely blow that out of the water!
See less See more

Another one of the "I had to lay it down" folks.

Save me....

Another one of the "I had to lay it down" folks.

Save me....
Firstly let me say that I was not there and cannot judge the report.


99% of the time when I hear "I had to lay it down" it really means that the rider lost control of the bike. Tires can swerve to avoid, or they can break to stop the bike, plastic and chrome will slide uncontrollably for a very long distance leaving the bike and rider at the mercy of fate as they are both being ground by the road surface before possibly hitting the car or other objects down the road. Keeping the bike on it's tires is nearly always the best choice as it keeps the rider in control to avoid the incident, or to scrub off speed and stop, or at the least to reduce speed before impact thus reducing damage to the bike and rider, at the least he continues to have options as the event unfolds. Also the bike is designed to protect the rider, something he cannot receive when he is sliding down the road on his own.
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
Not open for further replies.