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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)
Well, I just ordered a Reliance /ProTran 510C 10 circuit 50 amp transfer box with wired breakers, watt meters, pigtail, etc to mount beside my breaker box. Found a good deal on it. After it gets here, I'll get a 50 amp twist lock outdoor power-in box to mount on the wall outside the basement door and enough NMB 6/3 to run from the breaker box area across basement ceiling to that end of the basement patio not enclosed, has a roof and front porch above it and is walled in on three sides by basement, ret wall, trike room wall. Gonna build a secure enclosure come Spring to house my bigger generator (7,500 running / 13,500 surge watt rated) out there year around & get it out of my trike room, even has a nearby outlet that can hold the maintainer for it's AGM battery. I already have the 50 amp cable to hook the generator to the inlet box. It's a place that if raining, I or "Wife Unit" will stay in the dry while switching over (start generator).

I only needed one 240 volt 20 amp for my well pump (spaces 01 & 02 used) so that leaves me 8 single lines 120volt at 15 Amps (or 20A, but 15A will do nicely).
03-Master bed room,
04-Loft (TV & PC area)
05-Chest freezer & Water heater (gas but has small plug in transformer for brain & small exhaust fan)
06-Refrigerator (in kitchen but on dedicated outlet)
07-Kitchen counter A (alternates with B as you go around the counter)
08-Living room (mostly just to power fans in Pellet Stove if needed)
09-Furnace (blower and water cycle pump)
10-Guest bedroom (where fiber optic modem is located for phones / TV / Internet)

I'll add exhaust pipe to carry exhaust away if needed, maybe like the one we had when I was a kid. Was a Wisconsin 13 HP / gen like the ones Dad used in USAF on flight line repairs, had a maybe 20-25 foot long flexible tube with muffler that you uncoiled and laid away from work area. We just used "drop" cords for power as we called them … if needed, but it was very rare.

Anyway, that's where I'm at now.
 

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Well, I just ordered a Reliance /ProTran 510C 10 circuit 50 amp transfer box with wired breakers, watt meters, pigtail, etc to mount beside my breaker box. Found a good deal on it. After it gets here, I'll get a 50 amp twist lock outdoor power-in box to mount on the wall outside the basement door and enough NMB 6/3 to run from the breaker box area across basement ceiling to that end of the basement patio not enclosed, has a roof and front porch above it and is walled in on three sides by basement, ret wall, trike room wall. Gonna build a secure enclosure come Spring to house my bigger generator (7,500 running / 13,500 surge watt rated) out there year around & get it out of my trike room, even has a nearby outlet that can hold the maintainer for it's AGM battery. I already have the 50 amp cable to hook the generator to the inlet box. It's a place that if raining, I or "Wife Unit" will stay in the dry while switching over.

I only needed one 240 volt 20 amp for my well pump (spaces 01 & 02 used) so that leaves me 8 single lines 120volt at 15 Amps (or 20, but 15 will do nicely).
03-Master bed room,
04-Loft (TV & PC area)
05-Chest freezer & Water heater (gas but has small plug in transformer for brain)
06-Refrigerator,(in kitchen but on dedicated outlet)
07-Kitchen counter A (alternates with B as you go around the counter)
08-Living room (mostly just to power fans in Pellet Stove if needed)
09-Furnace (blower and water cycle pump)
10-Guest bedroom (where fiber optic modem is located for phones / TV / Internet)

I'll add exhaust pipe to carry exhaust away if needed, maybe like the one we had when I was a kid. Was a Wisconsin 13 HP / gen like the ones Dad used in USAF on flight line repairs, had a maybe 20-25 foot long flexible tube with muffler that you uncoiled and laid away from work area. We just used "drop" cords for power as we called them … if needed, but it was very rare.

Anyway, that's where I'm at now.
Are you running dedicated outlets to each point from your AuxGen?
Pretty slick if your are.
I didn't have that option with our very old house.
that is why I had to install a big 200A Transfer Panel so that the house breaker box could be fed from PSO or the AuxGen, but not both at the same time.
.
 

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Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
Are you running dedicated outlets to each point from your AuxGen?
Pretty slick if your are.
I didn't have that option with our very old house.
that is why I had to install a big 200A Transfer Panel so that the house breaker box could be fed from PSO or the AuxGen, but not both at the same time.
.
That's the plan, just switch over certain circuits, so only they will be able to feed from Gen. I like the way my BIL's works, only essential things, then leave a lamp on a non switched circuit even though PSO power is out, then when power comes back on, the lamp comes on and you know without looking at the pole light outside. When I built in '91, I wired the house and I dedicated some circuits like refrigerator, etc … and then some by room name, and my kitchen counter recepticles alternate between A & B. Any that needed a GFI will keep the GFI as I used receptacle type GFIs.

Other than $$$, your way is good too, no choosing, just use each sparingly. I saw prices of some 200A transfer switches.
 

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Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
Well, my Reliance / ProTran 510C 10 circuit 50 amp transfer box with wired breakers arrived. It was an Ebay find, saved a $100 plus on it, was wondering about condition but it's new still in box with stuff it ships with. It has 2 double pole sets (a 30A and a 20A pair, but I'll swap out the un-needed 30A breakers for 15 or 20 amp and untie them). It uses many easily found standard breakers. Came from Indyliquidators. Nicely made unit. I've ordered my needed two plugs and power inlet box for 50 amp input access from the generator. I have the 6/3 with 8/1 ground wire to run from generator to inlet, it was a 30 foot 240V50A RV extension cable but I'll shorten it to 10-12 feet for generator and use the remainder to add to male & female plugs to extend my welder's reach if needed. I'll have to buy a piece of 6/3 with ground to run across the basement and then I can start.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Well, I bought a 50 foot roll of NMB 6/3 w G (just over $100 @ HomeDepot)after getting my outside mount inlet box, I like the box as it points the connecting cable from twist lock downward. It's a GE T050N box (was like $85). Bought all my connectors, a few clamps, etc, just waiting for warmer temps now. My new plugs came too.

I also found a shorted GFI 15A outlet in a "weather tight" box on the far end of the house (never gets used, but it took out a couple outlets & carport lights I do use when it tripped breaker #38) … and I have some shop lighting I want to re-arrange.

When I get this done, will not hurt my feelings if I never need it again. Like my Snow Blower I bought one year on a sale and then didn't need for a couple years.
 

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That's a no no anywhere, nobody but the power co is allowed to pull a meter.
Not in my former neck of the woods. As an electrical contractor we pulled the meter out to do a service upgrade or install generators, It was an acceptable method on both PSE&G and JCP&L
 

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Not in my former neck of the woods. As an electrical contractor we pulled the meter out to do a service upgrade or install generators, It was an acceptable method on both PSE&G and JCP&L
But,
did you have the new Plastic/wire crimps to put back on the meter so it looks like it did before?
Here in Oklahoma, they "lock" the meter by putting a wire tie on it, that has a Plastic tab with a Serial Number on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
My meter has lock / seal too. It's been there since they updated the meter a few years ago. Before that, was same meter from the day it was installed in 1991. Never took it off. In fact, it was the same meter was mounted on a temporary base with outlets on my pole in 1990 when I started construction, they just moved it to the base I mounted on the house and after I connected from base to my new breaker box in basement. I had also put a couple outlets in house by then, but they just inspected the base & breaker box connections / routing and they ran lines from pole under yard & driveway in conduit all the way. I wired every thing else after that, staying away from the main lugs, building inspector looked it all over before passing it for occupancy.

Only down side was I used a then popular Crouse-Hinds 200A 40 slot breaker box, they've (Crouse-Hinds) been sold twice since. No problems, but breakers are harder to find if adding circuits. I know there are some others listed for use in it, but I can recall when you easily found their's at Lowe's or the local hardware store.
 

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No I did not have that. After the job was inspected they were supposed to put the seal back on. At times I pulled one leg of the wire out and re installed after the job. Tough to see it was removed
The real locks were in bad areas. Next to impossible to open the box without a key On service change we just called the utility inspector to open it up or we busted them with drills and sawzall However the crooks found a way too so the power company cut the wire at the pole on vacant buildings
 

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Only down side was I used a then popular Crouse-Hinds 200A 40 slot breaker box, they've (Crouse-Hinds) been sold twice since. No problems, but breakers are harder to find if adding circuits. I know there are some others listed for use in it, but I can recall when you easily found their's at Lowe's or the local hardware store.
Out in my shop, is an antique breaker box, a very dangerous one, it does not have Disconnect breakers for the wiring panel...

Anyway, I wanted a 30A breaker for a new circuit we were adding, dedicated to our RV parking spot. Special outlet RV style, etc.

I looked at the existing breakers and then went online. The only place I could find them was on eBay as used..... then the next day, I was at the local Electrical Supply house picking up conduit, SO cable.
I showed the guy there my breaker, and asked if he could order one?
He did better than that, walked into the back room and brought out a new one :oops:


and the price was very reasonable. asked him about that breaker, and he said "Oh, we get quite a few folks in here that need a new breaker, you would be surprised."
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Good deal, guessing it is a local owned shop, likely has both old stock & a good supplier. You won't find that at Lowe's or other large retailers.

I couldn't read the itsy bitsy type on the label in my box's door, so I used a pair of sticks to steady my camera & took a picture with it on "document" setting, reading it on PC now, I see there are approved CBs for the box listed by brand & type so I have more info than I thought. Beside Crouse-Hinds, there are some Bryant and some Westinghouse breaker types approved by C-H. Also Siemens makes some that are of right type and OK listed for use in my C-H box.
 

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Good deal, guessing it is a local owned shop, likely has both old stock & a good supplier. You won't find that at Lowe's or other large retailers.

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It is small Oklahoma only "chain store", Locke electrical. They have 165 locations, but only in Oklahoma.


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