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Went to the dealership yesterday to check over my winter's work on my '79 GL 1000. I was told by a very experienced GW mechanic who ran it through numerous electrical tests that my alternator is gone. After finding out that a replacement is $423 (Canadian) plus tax, I said, "well, that's the bad news...the good news is I have a parts bike to take an alternator off....maybe it will be a good one." He said, "No, the bad news is that on the GL 1000 you have to take the motor out of the frame to remove the alternator."



Please tell me there is some magic here? Am I just having a bad dream? If this is really happening, is there a source from which I might buy a new alternator at a reasonable price? I am reluctant to use an old one if it takes this much trouble to replace it with a used one off my parts bike.



Help!
 

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sorry quebecbob, non il n'y a pas de truc de magie il faut que tu enlèves le moteur, c'est assez mal placé,

no you don't have any magik triks you have to take a part
 

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I'm presently putting in a Poorboy conversion which should cost about the same as the price you got for the stator. It doesn't require engine removal, gives more output and is easily serviced if there is a future problem.

I don't know if they fit the 1000. My project is a 1200.
 

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Quebec Bob, The poorboy car alternator conversion, (runs off a pulley attached to the crankshaft end at front of bike), might look a bit exposed when not hidden under the side cover (as on a GL1200). Steve
 

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I am doiong one on a 1000 right now. Got the Alt for free from a friend, making up my own brackets had to buy a pulley and will have to buy a belt once I get things mounted and figure out the length. Mine should be up and running for less than $20. Alternator is a denso 100211-4531. 40 amp output cost 160 new I think.
 

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Whiskerfish wrote:
I am doiong one on a 1000 right now. Got the Alt for free from a friend, making up my own brackets had to buy a pulley and will have to buy a belt once I get things mounted and figure out the length. Mine should be up and running for less than $20. Alternator is a denso 100211-4531. 40 amp output cost 160 new I think.
You ARE taking pictures, aren't you? Seriously, I would like to see it when you're done. I would like to update my 1000 as well. But I won't be looking to do that until after I get it back on the road and dependable. Thanks.



Terry
 

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Putting a used stator is like Russian roulette. Not a good idea. Some other parts, maybe. But something so darn hard to get to, and relatively inexpensive, not worth the worry and headache.
 

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You guys are great. I appreciate this forum immensely. I have kind of gotten my head around the idea that it will be a lot wiser to buy new. I am not great with electronics and now understand that I can probably just change the stator and not the whole alternator and agree that buying new is the way to go with a critical piece like this. So I'll follow this advice. Thanks for the valueable help. Bob
 

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so what goes bad on the Stator? just curious.:)
 

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I'll take it apart on Sunday and let you know what I find out next week. I am really no expert on electricals. I'll post it 'though so you can all benefit from my experience.
 

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morriscatt wrote:
so what goes bad on the Stator? just curious.:)
No expert on it, but I understand the lacquer insulation on the copper wires wound around the stator breaks down and starts to come off. Once enough comes off and the copper wires start touching each other, or touch the stator housing itself, it's game over, man...
 

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I replaced mine GL1000 with the high output one from RM stator - did the voltage regulator at the same time - they offer a discounted package price for the two. It's really not all that bad of a job - it's nice to have four hands to do it with though.
 

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Silicon Sam wrote:
morriscatt wrote:
so what goes bad on the Stator? just curious.:)
No expert on it, but I understand the lacquer insulation on the copper wires wound around the stator breaks down and starts to come off. Once enough comes off and the copper wires start touching each other, or touch the stator housing itself, it's game over, man...
Thanks Sam, good to know:leprechaun:
 

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I got the engine out of the frame yesterday and presently have it swung around so that the back end is exposed. I didn't realize you had to take the whole back cover off to change the alternator. I had assumed I could just unbolt the alternator by itself, once I could get at it. Can you tell me if I have to remove the clutch or just the clutch casing cover to take the back plate off? I will order the stator and the regulator. It seems to make sense to do it right once with all this trouble.
 
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