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I thought that both the heads had blown on my 1977 triked GL1000 K2 type.

When I looked at the water it had a gray oil grunge floating on the top,the radiator, expanssion tank; however when I drained thewater it looked really clean with the anti-freeze been the only evident chemical mixed with it!

When I drained the oil it also looked clean and free of water! I carried on stripping the engine down, first the radiator, radiator fan and the i started on the carbs as soon as I opened and removed the Air filter, I saw that the whole of the air box was full of il the carb were swimming with oil!

Has any off you any ideas on what could have caused it?
 

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Sounds like you have some blowby due to weak rings if you are getting oil in the airbox. Might be time for a rebuild.:(

Gene:waving::11red::11red::11red::bash:
 

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What's the bike's mileage? Also, are the breather hoses connected to the airfilter box, especially the crankcase breather hose? Perhaps you have excessive oil spewing from the crankcase and collecting in the box? Otherwise, it has to be leaking past the rings from the engine side and getting in the carbs. On my bike, the crankcase breather hose got blocked and actually backed oil up through the fuel pump weep hole, it was spewing out. Those vapour have to vent somewhere.
 

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RebuiltYorkie wrote:
I thought that both the heads had blown on my 1977 triked GL1000 K2 type.

When I looked at the water it had a gray oil grunge floating on the top,the radiator, expanssion tank; however when I drained thewater it looked really clean with the anti-freeze been the only evident chemical mixed with it!

When I drained the oil it also looked clean and free of water! I carried on stripping the engine down, first the radiator, radiator fan and the i started on the carbs as soon as I opened and removed the Air filter, I saw that the whole of the air box was full of il the carb were swimming with oil!

Has any off you any ideas on what could have caused it?
I think it's more likely related to either a head gasket leak or a shot water pump that's allowing the water and oil to mix. A leaking head gasket could pressurize the crankcase enough to force oil out the breather, ditto a leaking head gasket. I doubt it's rings, a quick compression check should ease your mind about that.
 

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Was the oil thick like crancase oil or watery.

It is possible that the airbox drain tube isn't functioning and that you have an oily water mixture in the airbox. Locate the drain tube and make sure it works.

As far as oil in the water, if it returns, it's definately a sign of another mechanical issue as has been mentioned.
 

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mag wrote:
What's the bike's mileage? Also, are the breather hoses connected to the airfilter box, especially the crankcase breather hose? Perhaps you have excessive oil spewing from the crankcase and collecting in the box? Otherwise, it has to be leaking past the rings from the engine side and getting in the carbs. On my bike, the crankcase breather hose got blocked and actually backed oil up through the fuel pump weep hole, it was spewing out. Those vapour have to vent somewhere.
Engine mileage s 56000. The breather hose is conected to the back of the air box.

I don't think it's getting past the rings! Because when I pulled the hose and let it hang free loads of oil ran out of it. When I lifted the carbs, all for inlet valve chambers were free of oil!

Thanks for getting back to me

Rebuilt
 

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Tonys96 wrote:
Was the oil thick like crancase oil or watery.

It is possible that the airbox drain tube isn't functioning and that you have an oily water mixture in the airbox. Locate the drain tube and make sure it works.

As far as oil in the water, if it returns, it's definately a sign of another mechanical issue as has been mentioned.
Oil was a dark rich colour and seemed to have plenty of body (not watery or burnt out)

There was no water/oil mix in the air box!

There as been oil showing in the top of the water expanssion tank for a while;I've actually bought a new water pump and a full set of water pump seals; which I was going to fit when replacing the head gaskets!

Thaks for getting back to me!

Rebuilt
 

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Tonys96 wrote:
Was the oil thick like crancase oil or watery.

It is possible that the airbox drain tube isn't functioning and that you have an oily water mixture in the airbox. Locate the drain tube and make sure it works.

As far as oil in the water, if it returns, it's definately a sign of another mechanical issue as has been mentioned.

So! do you all think that I should press ahaed with the cylinder heads gasket change?

I tried to crank the engine yesterday, just to see if any oil was gonna spout from the breather, or spark plug holes. She wouldn't turn? I just got a clicking noise for the selonide; so attached jump leads from the cars battery and got just the same again click-click and nothing else?

Could this oil build up affect the starter region of my engine? I'm going to check for continuity today (battery to starter)



Thanks again everyone for your advice:)

Rebuilt
 

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RebuiltYorkie wrote:
I thought that both the heads had blown on my 1977 triked GL1000 K2 type.

When I looked at the water it had a gray oil grunge floating on the top,the radiator, expanssion tank; however when I drained thewater it looked really clean with the anti-freeze been the only evident chemical mixed with it!

When I drained the oil it also looked clean and free of water! I carried on stripping the engine down, first the radiator, radiator fan and the i started on the carbs as soon as I opened and removed the Air filter, I saw that the whole of the air box was full of il the carb were swimming with oil!

Has any off you any ideas on what could have caused it?
RebuiltYorkie, it sounds like you have two different possible problems there.

A slight oil residue on top of the coolant in the overflow bottle is usually caused by a slightly leaking (seeping) cylinder head gasket, or possibly a water pump oil seal seeping as the engine cools off & the pressure in the cooling system goes negative. It could alsohave beencaused by using a filling container that had oil residue in itwhen filling the radiator..-- Try flushing the radiator & over-flow tank then re-filling with fresh (clean) coolant, then watching it for a while to see if the oily residue on top of the coolant comes back.

On the oil in the air cleaner box? That most likely came from the crankcase breather hose. It could indicate an engine problem like piston ring leakage or more than likely an over-filled oil level or diluted engine oil. Oil in the air cleaner can also come through the vent line if the engine is operated at very high RPM's under a high load for a while.

Try removing the crankcase vent line from the air cleaner then plugging the air cleaner box hole off.. Then take a small plastic bottle with a screw on cap & drill a series of holes in the cap (to allow the bottle to vent through the cap),, Then drill a larger hole in the center of the cap to allow the vent hose tobe inserted intothe bottle.. Tie strap that plastic bottle to the bike some place then just keep an eye on the bottle as you ride the bike. If you keep getting a bottle full of oil you have a problem like overfilling the engine or internal engine problems. You might try going to a different type of engine oil or even trying 20W50 oil to see if that helps. DON'T over-fill the crankcase & check the accuracy of your oil dip stick against a new (proper) fill of oil.

Twisty
 

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Tonys96 wrote:
Was the oil thick like crancase oil or watery.

It is possible that the airbox drain tube isn't functioning and that you have an oily water mixture in the airbox. Locate the drain tube and make sure it works.

As far as oil in the water, if it returns, it's definately a sign of another mechanical issue as has been mentioned.
Cheers Paul

thank you for the reply, I was going to change the water pump, culinder head gaskets and the cambelts at the sametime!

All the best

Rebuilt
 

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Hi Twisty

I've heard of the bottle idea (well it was actually use a beer can! Lol) from a mate of mine from Scotland! I'll give it ago, but first I got to rebuild it and get the thing to turn over! At the moment I'm just getting a click-click noise from the selonide! When she first went pop (the day I thought that the heads had blown) she never stalled, I was able to ride her back home (2miles) Shes been standing for six weeks, while I was waiting for the parts. When I got the parts she wouldn't start! So I thought that the battery was a little flat? I put the battery on charge (trickle charge) over night; she still wouldn't turn over? Yesterday I put a set of jump leads form the car to the bikke battery and she still wouldn't crank over?

I'm going to have to check continuety from battery to starter. I'll let you know how i get on!

Thank you for your reply

Rebuilt
 

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Try pulling the plugs before you hit the starter. Watch for water shooting out of one of the plug holes. If you have abad head gasket it may have sucked water into a cylinder and hydro-locked.

Bob :11grey:
 

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AZWinger wrote:
Try pulling the plugs before you hit the starter. Watch for water shooting out of one of the plug holes. If you have abad head gasket it may have sucked water into a cylinder and hydro-locked.

Bob :11grey:
Hi Bob Plugs are out! and the carbs are now off! I'm just worried that the start may have packed and left the planet! lol

On top of everthing else, thats the last thingI need, because "She Who Must Be Obeyed" will not be happy if I have to spend another £1 on getting my trike fixed!:(
 

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My starter did the same thing three or fourof weeks ago. I rode 35 miles to work (the last 30 miles at 60-75mph) and parked my wing, then had to move it about 5 minutes later. When I went to start it, it just clicked when I hit the button. I had completely rebuilt the starter about a year ago and it had been working flawlessly. Then..............nothing but a click! It was weird. No symptoms at all prior to that. I checked voltage at the battery, starter relay and the starter itself and it all looked good. I had about a one volt drop at the relay to 11 (something) when I hit the button. I even jumped directly from the battery to the starter terminal and it wouldn't turn over. It still wouldn't turn over at the end of the day so I push started it to get home. I pulled the starter (only about a 10 minute job) and bench tested it with another battery. It seemed to spin up fine when out of the bike.I went ahead andopened it up anyway expecting to find a broken brush or some other obvious problem but everything looked good! Wasn't even hardly any dust in it yet since my rebuild. I cleaned it up with electronic cleaner, blew it out with compressed air and put it back together. Hooked a battery up on the bench and it whirred to life! I put it back in my:11grey: and it has been working flawlessly again!

I checked all the connections and everything looked good except for a tiny bit of corrosion on the starter terminal. I cleaned that up and so far so good.............!

Not sure why I wrote all that down since itprobably doesn't apply to your problem! What I should have just said is;

When I blew a head gasket on my 83 GL1100 Aspencade it tried to hydro-lock on me when I was troubleshooting it!It wasn't leaking bad enough to completely stopthe enginefrom turning over but there was a definite problem. When it did start it was soon bellowing clouds of white steam! Notto difficult to repair though.

Bob :11grey:
 

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AZWinger wrote:
My starter did the same thing three or fourof weeks ago. I rode 35 miles to work (the last 30 miles at 60-75mph) and parked my wing, then had to move it about 5 minutes later. When I went to start it, it just clicked when I hit the button. I had completely rebuilt the starter about a year ago and it had been working flawlessly. Then..............nothing but a click! It was weird. No symptoms at all prior to that. I checked voltage at the battery, starter relay and the starter itself and it all looked good. I had about a one volt drop at the relay to 11 (something) when I hit the button. I even jumped directly from the battery to the starter terminal and it wouldn't turn over. It still wouldn't turn over at the end of the day so I push started it to get home. I pulled the starter (only about a 10 minute job) and bench tested it with another battery. It seemed to spin up fine when out of the bike.I went ahead andopened it up anyway expecting to find a broken brush or some other obvious problem but everything looked good! Wasn't even hardly any dust in it yet since my rebuild. I cleaned it up with electronic cleaner, blew it out with compressed air and put it back together. Hooked a battery up on the bench and it whirred to life! I put it back in my:11grey: and it has been working flawlessly again!

I checked all the connections and everything looked good except for a tiny bit of corrosion on the starter terminal. I cleaned that up and so far so good.............!

Not sure why I wrote all that down since itprobably doesn't apply to your problem! What I should have just said is;

When I blew a head gasket on my 83 GL1100 Aspencade it tried to hydro-lock on me when I was troubleshooting it!It wasn't leaking bad enough to completely stopthe enginefrom turning over but there was a definite problem. When it did start it was soon bellowing clouds of white steam! Notto difficult to repair though.

Bob :11grey:

Cheers Bob I suppose by writting all that down, it's got out of your system lol!

I've been trying to get back into my garage to sort the whole thing out! But over here it's the school holidays so I'm kinda pushed into having to be "Dads Taxi" taking the kids here and everywhere!

I intend to sort all the electric conections out from battery to starter and see what happens!

Catch you later

Clive (RebuiltYorkie)
 

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Hello RebuiltYorkie, your 77 may just need a good clean. Blocked breathers allow sludge and oil to form in the filter box, you see this often on older cars as well. Just cleaning it out and changing oil regularly usually works a treat.
 

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englishted wrote:
Hello RebuiltYorkie, your 77 may just need a good clean. Blocked breathers allow sludge and oil to form in the filter box, you see this often on older cars as well. Just cleaning it out and changing oil regularly usually works a treat.

Hi Ted

Do you mean the charcaol filled thing? If so that sound a good idea but how and with what do I clean it with?:?

To tell you the truth I'm new to all this! I'm going one page at a time one bolt at a time! I've never stripped an engine before!

Have you any idea why the starter as decided to play up? You don't happen to have a spare engine going begging? Lol

By the way I'm in Skinburness, we've just moved up here from Brum (the wifes the Brummie) A guy told me today that the whole engine will need to be fitted with new pistons, rings, etc.. He was asking really silly money £900.00:shock:

Thank you for getting back to me



Clive (RebuiltYorkie)
 

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If the oil pressure was built up due to either over fill of oil or the head gaskets going. Does that mean that the rings will go/break automatically, or could it just be a sort of safety valve, i.e. blows oil out of the crank case through the breather to save the pistons and rings?

Or am I doing a little toooooooooo much wishful thinking?
 

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It's a sign of blow-by.. The higher pressure air inside thecrankcase is finding it's way up the air tube from the block to the air cleaner box. It's too heavy to be sent back into the combustion chamber to be re-burned, so it collects in the air box. The moisture you are seeing is condensation between the hot oil gasses and the cold air rushing into the box.

If you absolutely did NOT see any coolant in the oil AND no oil in the coolant, then the two systems appear to be sealed properly...

An overfilled crankcase will usually give the same results, only you will see small puddles of oil under the bike from leaking..

You can pressure test the cooling system after a clean & refill of antifreeze. If there is 9 - 13lbs of pressure holding during the test, you're safe and the problem could be what I mentioned above... :jumper:
 
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