Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Banned
Joined
·
12,287 Posts
imported post

Yes - ...but how do you know that you have no spark at all?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
494 Posts
imported post

Check if there is power at the coils "+" terminal with ignition on. If yes, check the points by doing the following: open one points (break the contact) and check for power on the input contact for that points. There should be power while they are opened. Repeat for another points. If there is no power there (and there is power on coils) then check the wires from coils "-" terminal to points input contact. However, if there is no power already at the coils "+" terminal then check the kill switch (engine stop switch) and the wires from that switch to coils "+" terminal.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
imported post

The bike does not have points. they look like some kind of electrical pick-ups to me. I am guessing this is the electronic ignition. It looks like i will have to take off the metal frame that holds all the electronics to get to the coils. If there is a way around that i would love to hear it. It looks pretty involved to remove the metal frame under the side (tank) covers.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
494 Posts
imported post

I'm not sure which metal frame? You think the fuse box, voltage regulator and other electrical stuff under the left hand side cover? I don't think that you should touch that. You should be able to access the coils either through the top cover (where the air filter is, remove the filter housing if needed, 2 wing nuts and 2 screws) or from bottom side, through the space between the carbs and false tank. On my bike coils are not at their original location so I can't tell for sure where they are located at your's, still I think that you can reach them from outside.
Electronic ignition, never mind, just find the input contacts if they are able and do the same check as with points, just replace "opening of the points" with turning the crankshaft slowly by hand or starter (power will periodically come and go off, if it's on or off all the time then something is wrong). I would check that thing first, before coils, just try to find some access to the input contacts (where the wires are attached) on the pickups. Possibly the power will be on or off all the time you crank the engine at one or both pickups and if so then we will have a good diagnostic sign to determine what's wrong. Don't forget to turn both the ignition and kill switch ON (RUN) while testing.
As Captain said, how do you know that you have no spark? Did you remove all the plugs, left them connected in their caps and put their threads against a metal part of the engine (ground, "-") in darkened conditions and then cranked the engine while watching the plugs and saw no spark at any of the plugs? If not, then try that first of all.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
69 Posts
imported post

removing the "shelter" is involved, I put my new coils in from the top. Take the tool tray out, remove the air box.

Working from the top and front sides just in back of the radiator. Electronic ignition requires a "hot" wire to power it, trace it. Also requires 2 pick up leads/wires back by the battery box nest of wires, verify all the leads are still hooked up there and from the coils etc. I don't know how to tell if any component is bad, I usually find enough evil in the wiring



As Captain said, how do you know that you have no spark? Did you remove all the plugs, left them connected in their caps and put their threads against a metal part of the engine (ground, "-") in darkened conditions and then cranked the engine while watching the plugs and saw no spark at any of the plugs? If not, then try that first of all.



great advice /\ /\ /\, I would wear myself out on this first
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
12,287 Posts
imported post

Check the ballast resistor. If it's bad, ...then it won't run. Well, it won't run when the start button is released anyway.

3 ohms, ...I think is what it should read.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
275 Posts
imported post

Just something else to think about...
There have been some failures noted in early aftermarket electronic ignitions (as they age). The Dyna I has a control box that will be mounted somewhere (probably under the left shelter cover) and some other manufacturer's early models had control boxes as well. The Dyna III ignition is their current model and doesn't have a control box. The Dyna III seems to hold up pretty well. If you have a Dyna ignition you can give them a call. Their tech support is very good.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
12,287 Posts
imported post

...if it is bad, then jump the two wires connecting it together and ride to the auto parts store to replace it. Them things get old and the resistive element gets damaged.

Standard #RU-23 rated @1.2 ohms

I run a #RU-37 rated @1.4 ohms. It measures 1.2 on my meters at room temp..
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top