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Well after the help from my first post I have spent some time sorting out the fuel issues and now they are sorted (more or less) the next problem I need to fix is the tick over.

It sits at 3000, I have wound out the idle screw but nothing happens, well not until I give the connecting rods a quick push or tap and the tick over drops way down and will cut out as I have the screw too far out.

I think it may be a carb balance problem but not too sure.

So could youplease come to my assistance once again so I can get back to riding the old girl.

Oh, I have had a return of the cutting out problem, think I have fixed it by removeng the filler cap, will know moreonce I have sorted out the reving problem.

Again, many thanks in advance.

Darron
 

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This sounds like a job for WD-40!!!! Spray it in the cables from your handle bar throttle and any where there is a opening. Spray it on the carbs. Work the controls and let it sit. Come back later and do it again until the carbs clean up. (I mean the moving parts)
As soon as you said "a quick tap" means you may have corrosion and need to clean it up. Try not messing with the carbs setting until later. Really if it start then the carb are working correctly. (maybe need a tweak but they work)

Keep us updated on this problem, I'm sure other people can learn from yours.
 

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First thing I would do is to check for adequate slack in the throttle cables, thencheck for vacuum leaks, then synchronize the carbs carefully. If all this fails you can look for worn throttle shafts and throttle paltes.

Vic
 

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Goldwinger1984 wrote:
First thing I would do is to check for adequate slack in the throttle cables, then check for vacuum leaks, then synchronize the carbs carefully.  If all this fails you can look for worn throttle shafts and throttle paltes.

Vic


Vacuum seals, now, I did remove the carbs to have a look over and to empty out the bowls and check stuff out, the bowls where not tightened up against the bodies and when I came to fe assemble I noticed that a few of the bolts could not tighten, two had been replaced by self tappers which again could not be tightened up.

Any solutions for that?

Thanks again

Darron
 

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Dazzarila.. Looks like you had the infamous gorilla working on your bike.. (Before you purchased it)... I hate when that hpappens.. It makes the next mechanic's job that much more difficult.. In answer to the question about stripped screws, you could go to a larger self tapping screw if there is enough material left in the carb base, or, what I would do is install a helicoil in the hole. That would be the lease expensive permanent repair... The most expensive, of course, is to replace the carb... The carbs are made of what we call here in the states, "white metal". It's a composition of aluminum alloy which is very soft and easily damaged.

Ask in this forum if anyone has a spare carb to sell, try E-Bay, or your local bike shop for a rebuildable housing that you can swap your internal parts over to. As a last resort, there is an aluminum welding rod available that you can use to fill the holes, drill and re-tap if you have the tools to do it.. The rods melt at very low temperature, will not melt the surrounding material, and when it cools, is as strong as tempered aluminum. You would have to file the surfacd perfectly flat to seal the bowl properly...Just a few suggestions... Good luck....
 

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dazzarila wrote:
Vacuum seals, now, I did remove the carbs to have a look over and to empty out the bowls and check stuff out, the bowls where not tightened up against the bodies and when I came to fe assemble I noticed that a few of the bolts could not tighten, two had been replaced by self tappers which again could not be tightened up.

Any solutions for that?

Thanks again

Darron

eewww, thats a different light on the picture. G.W. does has good advice. Good luck
 

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dazarrila, if by chance you do decide to weld your carbs yourself, be absolutely certain that are are completely dry of any fuel before getting a flame near them.

Personally, unless you are skilled in machining, I would get another carb or have someone experienced repair your carb. These carbs need to be precisely adjusted and tuned for your Wing to run properly.

Vic
 

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I concur with Renegade, a Helicoil is a good safe fix. I've used them on outboards, on my Rotax 582 UL. Early Rotax 582s had a water pump cover that was famous for having it's screws stripping out. I've put Helicoils in several and never had another problem. Steel screws do tend to strip out over time in what I call pot metal, white metal, aluminum zinc alloy, etc. The nice thing about Helicoils is that after you've installed them the female threads in the pot metal are now steel so you won't have a recurrance of the problem. It's especially good in threaded holes on parts that need to be removed once in a while for maintenance.
 

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The guys are right, Helicoils are the way to go. In a low stress application like your carbs they will last forever. The HC kits can be expensive, but a machine shop would do the job for you at a reasonable price.
 
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