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Last weekend I went out for a ride,stopped for the usual coffee stop,when I went to leave the starter wouldn,t work.I push started the bike and made it home with it.I have 13.2 volts at the solenoid and the same voltage at the starter but it will not even attempt to turn,On the positive side I got to try the kick start for the first time and am amazed how easily it starts with the kick start.WOuld this be the brushes gone?According to my manual one has to be careful when removing the starter not to drop the gear ,anyone have any advice or tricks to prevent the gear dropping?

Thanks for any replies in advance
 

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There are loads of topics abut stripping the starters here. Just keep the Wing on the sidestand when actually pulling the starter out, this stops the cog falling into the engne.
 

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I did a search on gl 1000 starter not much,then did a search on starter removal,loads of info,I read one thread about kick starting these bikes and I am amazed at the people who say the kick starts are hard to use to get these bikes going,I have been using the kick start since last saturday,put over 500 miles on the bike and had no trouble getting it to start,I think I am just going to use the kickstart for the rest of the season as I am taking the motor out this winter and installing a new motor in the bike,after it is out i,ll tear the starter off and rebuild it then i will have a spare for the new motor I am installing
 

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If the battery is down a good bit the kick starting will be more difficult. Sounds like you carbsand your ignition system are set up just right.
 

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That is the most frustrating part with this bike,the engine works like a clock,runs beautifully,starts good,but this bike sat for over 6 years before I bought it,it had a stuck oil ring on number 4 cylinder,I finally got the ring unstuck using MMO but it still burns a bit of oil,about a litre every 800 miles or so just enough to be annoying,the prices I have gotten to put rings in it are scary ,rough estimate around 2000 to 2500 dollars,I have another motor lined up with 15000 miles on it out of a 75,for about half of what it would cost me to fix my present motor,I just hope I can get the new motor to work as good as the old one,from what I have read a 75 motor is the same as my 76
 

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Before you change the engine have you done a compression check. Burning a lot of oil often is a fault of bad intake valves. If the compression is reasonable it might be worth pulling the heads and renewing the valve seals. If you have poor rings there should be consider blow by from the crankcase vent. In fact with bad rings often most of the oil goes out the vent, with shot valve guides it tends to get sucked in and burned. Another clue is your spark plugs, if the valve guides are bad the plugs will look pretty oily, not necessarily so with rings.
 

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Both heads have been off and checked,new valve seals and guides ,compression in the cylinder that is using oil was 145 at the beginning of summer now it is down to 125,the engine is losing power now as I drive it more,I actually had to disconnect the pipe from the crankcase vent and just let it vent out into the air because hooked up to the collector and air box she was building up alot of back pressure .I talked to a man today who knew who the previous owner was and he stopped using it 10 or 12 years ago because of the oil problem.This bike only had 37000 on it when I bought,and from a sticker I found inside of the lid on the false tank,in 1981 the bike had 20,000 on it when it was serviced in 81,some from 1981 to 2004 it only had 17000 miles put on it,,I have checked everything I can think of,the rings are the only thing left so I am going to swap out this engine,keep my old one for parts and over time tear it down and rebuild it for a spare
 

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andrewns5 wrote:
Both heads have been off and checked,new valve seals and guides ,compression in the cylinder that is using oil was 145 at the beginning of summer now it is down to 125,the engine is losing power now as I drive it more,I actually had to disconnect the pipe from the crankcase vent and just let it vent out into the air because hooked up to the collector and air box she was building up alot of back pressure .I talked to a man today who knew who the previous owner was and he stopped using it 10 or 12 years ago because of the oil problem.This bike only had 37000 on it when I bought,and from a sticker I found inside of the lid on the false tank,in 1981 the bike had 20,000 on it when it was serviced in 81,some from 1981 to 2004 it only had 17000 miles put on it,,I have checked everything I can think of,the rings are the only thing left so I am going to swap out this engine,keep my old one for parts and over time tear it down and rebuild it for a spare
The excessive blow by sure does point to the rings. The deteriorating compression could have been valves but not the blow by. Unusual to hear of one having the rings go so early, might have been seriously overheated sometime in the pass. Your plan on rebuilding it as a spare sure sounds like a good idea to me.
 

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125 is bad news, but Paul is right about it being unusual for only one cylinder to go down like this. I wonder if a piston ring is broke in the afected cylinder?
 

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I will find out later on this month when i tear the engine out.i am going to pull the head on that side and start examining the inside of the engine,one way to learn is to tear it apart and see.since I have another engine lined up I can take my time with this one and experiment.I learned more about my bike today,apparently a few years ago it was over heated,quite severely,It burnt a valve and the owner kept driving it,that might account for alot of the problems now.even though the heads have been done i don,t think the person i bought it from ever went very deep into the internal.The person i bought it from had bought it from the owner who overheated it,the one i got it from had bought it for a project to fix up,he put alot into it ,but lost interest after awhile,he replaced the burnt valve ,did the valves,put alot into it,this spring i had the heads taken off and gone over by the local honda mechanic and he could find nothing wrong,so soon i will tear it out and really tear it apart,
 

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That dropping compression in one cylinder sure sounds a lot like a valve problem. I'd expect if you had a broken ring there'd be asome scoring of the cylinder wall.Usually a burned exhaust valve is caused by a very lean operation or a valve that doesn't quite close and has hot gases passing over it's rim. It may well be that the PO (once removed) didn't know he'd burned a valve. The results of a burned valve can mimic several other problems. It will be interesting to hear what you find as you begin the tear down. That's how we build up a good knowledge base on this forum so keep us posted.
 
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