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Broke a start in my 1982 GL1100 after testing did in fact determine that the start was bad so sucked it up and yanked the engine and pulled the start. Ended up sending the starter to a company that rebuilds starts of all types. The found on of the wires to one of the four coils inside was broken fixed it and starter worked great. Re installed the start then the motor back into the bike ended having to pull and replace radiator. To the point fluids in and ready to do a start up before putting on the fenders and seat etc. Push the button the dash lights dim but the start dose not turn over no noise no kick nothing.:wtf: pull out the tester and finally determine that no current is getting to the starter motor following shop manual find that when the started button is pushed no power is getting across the the relay. so no power to the starter fuse is fine the lights on dash working the magnet seems not to be working. so any suggestion on where to look now.
 

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a good place to start would be at the start button. next check for voltage across the solenoid. my guess`s.
 

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No such thing as a 82 GL100 :?



Need to know what you got, check out relay to starter.:readit:



You do not have to remove the engine to pull the starter.:ssshh:
 

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Welcome to the forum,

Check the cylinders, pull the plugs, if there is gas loaded in them, that would be hydro locked and is caused by leaking float valves.
If so, turn kill switch off so no sparks, spin it over w/rags over plug holes to flush out the gas. Turn off petcock, empty carb bowls of the gas, tap on the carb bodies w/screwdriver handle as you turn petcock on to clear the blockage. Have you changed the gas filter? Use a Napa 3011, @$5.

You don't have to pull the motor to change the starter, just have the bike on the side stand.
 

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kb0ou wrote:
No such thing as a 82 GL100 :?



Need to know what you got, check out relay to starter.:readit:



You do not have to remove the engine to pull the starter.:ssshh:
The post at top says 82 GL1100, he missed a key in the wording:lash:
 

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Good to know I do have a GL1100.
I pulled the engine because I was going off the shop manual I have. I just found this forum wish I would have found it sooner oh well. The wiring is good between the relay and starter is good no power through the relay however. What would be best way to test the starter button?
 

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Check if you are getting power to the yellow/red wire at the solenoid, if so check the green/red wire for ground with the trans in neutral or with the clutch lever pulled in.
 

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When you push the starter button does the magnetic relay (solenoid) click? If it clicks then all of the small wires are fine. Next test at the starter (again if it clicks) to see if 12 volts is present. If it is the issue is probably the starter or ground. If there is not 12 volts at the starter (While holding the start button) Next go back to the solenoid and without the start button pushed only one of the big leads should have 12 volts. If none do (have 12 volts) look back toward the battery etc. If one does have 12 volts push the start button and listen for the click. After the click and while still HOLDING the start button both big leads should have 12 volts. (at the solenoid)Check back with what you find and others will help guide you through other possibilities but this should be a good start to troubleshoot if you answer these questions.
 

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EAsy check to test starter..key on, bike in neutral..jump the two posts on the solenoid..with a BIG screw driver..may melt it a bit..if starter turns over it good and the connections to it. if not you've narrowed your issues.

Test as said above for power to the solenoid if you've got power then it's the solenoid or the clutch safety crap..diode or wiring could be bad. A new solenoid on eBay is only $14 with a blade fuse..better. Swap it out still no go bad nuetral safety crap..check wiring, swap out diode???
 

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no click when start button pushed

no power across the solenoid relay
bought a new solenoid on ebay

installed it had to take the plug apart and put the wires into individual female connectors the plug on my Goldwing was too large to fit the new solenoid.

blew the blade fuse and no headlights or dash lights, I realized I had reversed the primary and secondary terminals when I connected the wires so replaced the fuse and moved the thicker red wires to the primary terminals and the yellow/red & green/red wires to the secondary terminals on the new solenoid hooked it back up to the battery and turned on the key headlight and dash lights on -- still no click or turn over on the starter when the start button pushed.
 

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when I push the start button the dash lights dim down but that is all that is happening.

Had to pull battery and put it on charger to get it back up to strength
 

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when I had the wire on the wrong post did i fry the new solenoid? I don't think I did because the fuse popped when i connected the battery
 

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*****Check if you are getting power to the yellow/red wire at the solenoid, if so check the green/red wire for ground with the trans in neutral or with the clutch lever pulled in. *******
when checking for power to the yellow/red wire do I check or connected to the solenoid or not connected?

What would be the best way to check ground on the red/green wire?
I know stupid question but I work better underwater then on land lol
 

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kh7cp wrote:
*****Check if you are getting power to the yellow/red wire at the solenoid, if so check the green/red wire for ground with the trans in neutral or with the clutch lever pulled in. *******
when checking for power to the yellow/red wire do I check or connected to the solenoid or not connected?

What would be the best way to check ground on the red/green wire?
I know stupid question but I work better underwater then on land lol
Check with it plugged in. To check for ground on the g/r wire leave your meter on volts and probe the g/r wire, if it shows voltage you have no ground, 0v or close to it (while pressing the start button) the ground side is good.
Some of the aftermarket solenoids are wired differently, you have to check which spade terminals are connected to the battery post and make sure the red and red/white wires go on those. The other 2 it doesn't matter which goes where.
 

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*Check with it plugged in. To check for ground on the g/r wire leave your meter on volts and probe the g/r wire, if it shows voltage you have no ground, 0v or close to it (while pressing the start button) the ground side is good.
Some of the aftermarket solenoids are wired differently, you have to check which spade terminals are connected to the battery post and make sure the red and red/white wires go on those. The other 2 it doesn't matter which goes where.
Last edited on Mon Jan 2nd, 2012 05:38 pm by DaveO430******

Will do
 
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