[jwlittle]

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I'm getting ready for my winter projects with my 82 Interstate. The front rotors are shot andthe brake pads are full of fork oil from both fork seals failing. As with all obsessions (I mean hobbies) I don't have a lot of money to fix the problems. I'm looking for used rotors. What year rotors will fit my bike? The front rotor replacement looks pretty straight forward but the rear is a little intimidating. I don't have a lift so I'll probably farm that one out to a shop and replace the rear tire at the same time. Appreciate any good sources for parts and any advice. Thanks

 

[RB]

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You don't need a lift to get the wheel/rotor off the rear. A couple of options. Taking the hub and rear axle out/off isn't too bad.

Roll your bike up on separate 2x4's front and rear tires, then put a 2x6 under where the center stand lines up put it on the center stand now the bike is up enough to get the rear wheel out. (you may want to use 2 2x4's and get it even higher) Take the rear 2x4 out of the way and the front's too it will tip the bike forward a bit as it rests on the front wheel.
OR
Park your bike on the center stand near a curb, up on the sidewalk then spin it on the center stand so the rear wheel is over the curb..lots on room to drop the wheel. Just have all the parts ready to put her back together..so it isn't sitting there over night!!!

You might be able to use your rotors..they can be ground/shaved if they are not too worn/grooved. While you are at it you might want to drill them.

 

[jwlittle]

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Thanks for the tips! I'll probably save a few bucks by pulling the rear wheel and taking it in for tire replacement. I'll do the brakes myself now. I'm afraid the rotors all around are shot. The front ones are so worn out there is an eighth inch rim around the outside. Kind like a pizza pan.The grooves are deep on all three rotors.

 

[RB]

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Yep, new rotors ..I have salvage yards here and there are always rotors on eBay but you never know what you are getting on eBay.

you can check the parts sites for part numbers to get years that are the same..like here, to what year's rotors are interchangeable.or someone might post a summary.

http://www.hdlparts.com/fiche_section_detail.asp

PS I'd use 2 2x4's to be sure you have plenty of room

 

[Bagmaster]

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Here's what I used last week to raise the bike high enough to get the rear wheel off.
Bought mine for 30 bucks out of a pawn shop, looked brand new.

Harbor Freight now has them for $65.99.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=95851

Harbor Freight also has the MityVac brake bleeder kit on sale right now for way less than BikeBandit sells it.

 

[83GoldWinger]

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:waving:Removing the rear wheel/tire is not much of a problem just put the bike on the center stand and you don't need any special jacks etc. I would remove the saddle bags which will make it easier. Remove the shock absorber lower mounting bolts and nuts, raise the rear wheel using a short 2X4 and put a block of wood under under the tirelarge enough that the axle clears the muffler. Lift the rear license plate remove the sub fender by removing 3 bolts. Remove the rear bumper by removing 4 bolts. Remove cotter pin if there is one ('83 doesn't have one) , axle nut & pinch bolt. Loosen the 3 nuts for the final drive assembly. Use a wooden block to apply pressure to the left side of the swing arm, then remove the axle. CAUTION: If you do not support the left side of the swingarm you could bend it removing the axle. After removing the axle reinstall the shock absorber lower mount hardware, then raise the brake caliper. Remove the final drive nuts that were loosened earlier, now you can remove the block of wood from under the tire, pull the wheel rearwardwhile raising the license plate and roll the wheel/tire assemble out. Remove the final drilve, Caution: Do not lay the final drive case over as the gear oil may flow out of the breather.

The above procedure is taken from the Honda '80-'83 GoldWing Service Manual. Early this year I removed the rear wheel/tire assembly from my '83 Interstate using the above procedure. I had both saddle bags off which provided good access. When reinstalling apply a lithium based multipurpose grease NLGI No. 2 to all the gear splines.

 

[jwlittle]

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Great info and tips! Thanks!

 

[83GoldWinger]

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jwlittle wrote:

Great info and tips! Thanks!

:waving:jwlittle, Your are welcome!!

 

[MDKramer]

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Here's a thought, and I offer it because I've done it a few times myself.

If you're taking the front tire off the bike, once you've put the bike up on the center stand, you'll be using some form of jack to lift the front enough to get the tire off.

If you then collapse that jack as low as it will go with the tire off and the bike still on the center stand, it will rock forward enough that you'll be able to get the back tire out with no issues at all.

Mike

 

[vabikeguy]

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That's a great idea, Mike. Maybe the owner can just anchor the bike with the use of a strap on the back end of the bike to something solid so it doesn't rock all the way down onto the forks.

 

[MDKramer]

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I use a regular 4 ton hydraulic floor jack. It doesn't collapse flat enough to let the forks touch the floor.

I'm thinking the oil filter can will hit the floor before the forks do though.

Mike

 

[83GoldWinger]

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:waving:The image below is scanned from the Honda GoldWing 1980-1983 Service Manual. Notice the block of wood under the rear tire which raises it so that the axle is above the mufflers which is necessary in order to remove the axle. Under normal conditions with both front and rear tires on and bike on center stand the rear tire is raised but if you notice the axledoesn't clear the mufflers. Also why would anyone want both wheel/tires off the bike at the same time which I consider an unsafe condition. The easiest and safe way is to follow the procedure in the SERVICE MANUAL. Been there done that.