[Ken M]

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I have a 1982 GL 1100 Not charging.The 3 yellow wire plug on the left side of the battery got hot at one time and the red wire on the right of the battery going into the little box got hot too. any Help would be greatly appreciated.



Thanks Ken

 

[Ken M]

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Is it a dead short in the wiring?

 

[Whiskerfish]

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Ken, you need to start at the beginning.Test the 3 yellow wires from the Stator as described in the battrery/charging section.

 

[krazy al]

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if the plug looks like it is melted or been hot.you need to cut the plug off and solder the 3 yellow wires together.as for the red wire not sure but i think that is starter solenoid wire but not sure. someone will be on here that can tell you for sure.


ALSO WELCOME TO THE SITE ALOT OF GOOD PEOPLE ON HERE THAT WILL HELP.:waving::waving:

 

[ccsailor]

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GL1100's are basically the same

GL1200 Stator Testing



Get a digital voltmeter that measures A/C and DC as well as resistance

Pull battery cover (left side) off and put bike on centre stand



Have battery load tested at battery shop if OK charge overnight measure DC volts straight across battery after charge should be about 13.5-13.9 VDC Reinstall battery.

On the left side of the battery you will see three yellow wires either going to a plug or wired straight thru by previous owner


Disconnect the plug OR cut the three yellow wires one at a time VERY important ONE at a time mark wiresA; B: C; You have to disconnect to get true readings. If left connected a lot of other problems could mislead you. Clean wires leading to stator by about ½ inch. You will be soldering later



Start The bike



This will not hurt the bike in anyway. It will run on the battery

Put meter on A/C scale across any combination A-B;B-C;A-C rev bike to 3000 RPM. You should see 45 to 60 volts A/Cacross any of above combination

If OK shut bike offmeasure on resistance scale (50K is good) from each of three wires to ground It should be infinite EG open must not have any shorts to ground

Measure from A-B; B:-C; A:-C; measurement should be in the vicinity of 1.2 ohms on any of the legs

If all measurements are ok (volts and resistance)your stator is good



Bad News Scenarios



1 A/C volts under 40 V A/C (with wires disconnected and at 3000 RPM)

2 Any leg A: B: or C: shorted to ground (Low or no resistance to ground)

3 Any combination A:-B: B:-C: A:-C: open (infinite resistance)



If stator is bad you may consider the alternator alternative See separate post on that subject

Or it entails pulling engine to replace stator



Ifyou havethe plug cut it out and solder each of the three yellow wires straight thru cover with heat shrink. Follow wiring all the way down to where it enters engine(under sleeve) just to make sure there are no other hidden splices (throw the plug at the neighbour’s cat or some thing it’s a piece of crap)



While you are in the area it is recommended that you change the fuseable link (30 amp main fuse) to a heavy-duty fuse holder with bayonet style fuses. These old fuses have a tendency to corrode and fail at the worst times leaving you with a dead bike



Start bike with meter still attached to battery voltage will go down while cranking over but should come back up to 13 VDC plus when you rev bike turn on Hi Beams volt should drop slightly but still be over 13 VDC if not e.g. 11 to 11.5 dc replace regulator 10 min job (lots on ebay)

 

[Ken M]

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Thanks for the info

 

[Bo]

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hot battery. I checked the dreaded3 yellow wires and fou them to be fairly clean in the plug. I cleaned them off and now the best I can get is 13.3 @ 3500 rpm is that about right?

 

[Bo]

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Not sure what happen to the first part of my post but my bike was dead this morn after riding last night battery charged only getting 12.7 so basicly a