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Not sure what's going on. If I put the bike in neutral (no light) and turn it off, it won't start back up (in neutral) unless I pull in the clutch.



Could it be a bad safety switch?
 

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you can repair the neutral switch.
http://www.wingovations.com/#/repairing-the-neutral-switch/4541312843
Hopefully you can see here where to troubleshoot further?

The neutral switch and the clutch switch are paralleled. If the bike is in neutral, the light should be on and you should be able to spin the starter without the clutch being pulled in.

Good luck!
 

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It depends on the year of your 1100. Early ones had the neutral switch down on the lower front right side of the engine. You have to take out some engine mount bolts, and pry the engine up just a bit to pull the switch out of the block. It seem to be mostly old oil and carbon that fouls them up. I've resurrected a couple with compressed air and brake cleaner. Later 1100shave the neutral switch under the frontcover and take a bit more effort toget at them.
Before investigating the switch itself try grounding the wire near the switch and see if thebike will start to eliminate any problem with the wiring.
 

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"Not sure what's going on. If I put the bike in neutral (no light) and turn it off, it won't start back up (in neutral) unless I pull in the clutch."

When in neutral the neutral switch goes to ground, then the neutral light energizes. With the clutch out, not pulled in the clutch switch cannot ground, so the starter button when closed feeds 12 V + to the starter relay and the negative for the relay which is the return side uses the ground provided by the neutral switch but first that grounding has to travel through the diode.

Both the clutch switch and neutral switch supply a means of ground for a return path for the starter relay and also the neutral light.

When in neutral and no neutral light is on then likely the return path is blocked.

But just as likely the + signal may be blocked, it may take some work with a meter to a good ground and probing for voltage the + source voltage and then when that proves OK verifying the negative ground return pathways.

Electrical things that take power, like light bulbs and relays need both sides of the power, that is both the + feed and the - return so that a complete pathway is established and current can travel to the thing and return from the thing back to the source. The amount of current to the thing is the same as from the thing and if this current changes on the way, you end up with problems.

12V is low voltage and anything can and does hamper its travels along and through a wire, connector, switch etc. Carbon dirt and/or a combination mixed with crap, oils can make a seemingly good joint a mess. Cleanliness is critical to low voltage as it is to high voltage. But 12 V does not have enough potential to push through resistance created by crappy joints. With time all joints get crappy as is witnessed by all the differing problems we experience with any bike over 3 years.
 

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I was waxing the bike and found a wire that was unplugged. Took a while to find the other half but, once located and plugged back together, the neutral light came on. Not sure how it came unplugged but I'm just glad it wasn't a major issue!
 

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Please explain this "waxing" thing? Can I do it while riding? If not, it probably won't get done...

:action:

- glad you found it, it is nice when things work like they should.
 

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You can do this "waxing" thing while riding if you happen to stop at a light next to a HD.
 

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Bob Cassel
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Washing and waxing are those things I do so I put my hands on all parts of the bike and find those little wires that have come unplugged, frayed or worn. It's no where near as fun as riding, but I find it keeps me riding more.
 

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You can always "wax poetic" and ride at the same time...:cheesygrin:
 

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Still Learning
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Ah that neutral light was wax on, wax off.
 
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