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Need help from my Goldwing brethren. Came back to the bike ( 1981 GL 1100 Standard ) an hour after an uneventful 20 mile ride with all systems functioning. No power with the switch in the run position. Aftermarket voltmeter shows 12 volts with the switch in Park position ( all the way to the right ) and tail light is on. PO had installed a 30 amp circuit breaker to replace OEM 30 amp fuse. Bypassed that - nada. The infamous 3 yellow wires forward of the battery are in the original connector and appear OK ( bike has always been garaged ). All auxiliary fuses in fuse box are intact. Buddy with a real tester and more knowledge is out of town. Any and all advice or suggestions are welcome.
 

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do you hear a click... If not try touching the two post on the solenoid to see if the starter will turn with the bike on, if that is the problem it should start. I use a big screw driver to touch the post. does the oil light and other stuff come on.
 

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awww miss read a little.. I would say you switch is dirty, and also would try to turn the switch back and forth like 10 time and see if it makes connection. they do get dirty and cause problems. Could also be bad ground somewhere.
 

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Vintage Rider
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Not sure I understand. Where are you getting the 12V at?
 

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Official "Cheeky Plonker"
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If all else fails, In my case the wires that caused this on my bike where behind the steering counterwieght but as you have the Windjammer fairing (I'm guessing that's your bike in the Avatar) yours will likelybe in the headlight, there is a plug that feeds the ignition switch, it burned out on mine and I've also known it to happen to others.
 

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chilidawg he get power when kill switch is off.. when he put it to run it kills everything is what I think he means.
 

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Just a guess but it sounds like he is talking about the ignition switch. Though he mentions run which is why we might think kill switch-I believe he means the ignition or key switch and is referring to on. Is that correct George? Also is after market voltmeter mounted on bike?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
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Sorry I left out so much info. The voltmeter is on the bike. No click, no idiot lights. I'm thinking it may be the switch itself. There have been a few times that I had to do some jiggling to get the oil & neutral lights to come on.I'll check that next. Don't need the bike back that bad. I'm a cager duing the week. Besides its too damn hot and we got a hurricane coming. Thanks for the tips.
 

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Yep I'd say bad ignition switch..you can replace the bottom contact section $9 on Ebay.from the guy in Fl. It's a PITA to get it off and replace but not hard.
 

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Thanks, RB. I will attempt it soon and report back. Before I remove the switch, gonna try shooting WD40 down the key hole and working the bejesus out of it. If i hold my tongue just right and say the right cusswords, might get lucky.
 

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Official "Cheeky Plonker"
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George 56-81 wrote:
Thanks, RB. I will attempt it soon and report back. Before I remove the switch, gonna try shooting WD40 down the key hole and working the bejesus out of it. If i hold my tongue just right and say the right cusswords, might get lucky.
You can try all that but I still think I knocked the nail on the head, at least check it, you've got to take it down that far to get the ignition switch off anyway.

But besides all that, good luck with Irene buddy, looks like you'll only get the cleanside now but I know how bad even just that can be, gas for the generator, food & beveragesin the refrigerator, hunker down man and good luck dude!!! :watching:
 

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Village Whack Job...
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In a pinch you can run a jumper wire from the positive terminal ont he battery to the top of the first fuse on the left in the fuse box. The will power up the whole bike just like you turned the key on. This will let you know if the problem is in the switch or somewhere else. if it's int he switch it will power up. if it doesn't the problem is elsewhere.
 

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Thanks,BW. Hot wire from batt. to fuse box confirmed it was the switch. Got it apart; contact base was sloppy; part on the way. Should be good to go.
 
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