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when it states turn crank to t-1 mean one rotation of crank or 2 to get 360 degrees? this timing has gotten to get me down ,when it seems so plain.question when its on t-1 are the number 1 and number 2 pistons at the top of cyl. thanks hoghideman
 

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hoghideman wrote:
when it states turn crank to t-1 mean one rotation of crank or 2 to get 360 degrees? this timing has gotten to get me down ,when it seems so plain.question when its on t-1 are the number 1 and number 2 pistons at the top of cyl. thanks hoghideman
T-1 is a timing mark for the crank that is visible through a hole in the engine that has a removable plug. Have you found this timing inspection plug. I think you are overthinking this. Put simply each time the crank makes a revolution the pistons will be in the same place. With T-1 lined up with the inspection hole the #1 piston will be at top and in the correct place for timing. The only other thing you have to do is make sure the cam marks are aligned while the crank is at T-1.

The crank rotates 2x for every revolution of the cams thus it is possible for the T-1 mark to be visible but the marks showing 180 degrees off. 1 more revolution of the crank and it should all line up.
 

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The time hole is on the top of the engine at the rear on the 2/4 side. A big slotted cap. Note for timing with the front covers off rotate to T1. Note T1 is used for setting both sets of valves..T2 is not used for valve setting.

If you haven't moved the cam sprockets or front crank; when on the correct T1 the cam sprocket marks should be lined up with the case marks or very close.
 

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hoghideman wrote:
when it states turn crank to t-1 mean one rotation of crank or 2 to get 360 degrees? this timing has gotten to get me down ,when it seems so plain.question when its on t-1 are the number 1 and number 2 pistons at the top of cyl. thanks hoghideman
Start with the #1 cylinder (right front) intake valve. Turn the motor over clockwise (as if looking straight-on at the generator bolt) at the generator screw on the back of the engine (under the screw-off cap) with a 12mm offset box-end wrench at least a full turn to make sure you're on the right track. Turn the engine over 'til the #1 intake starts to close and then watch for the T-1 mark to line-up.That's TDC at the compression strokeYou should be able towiggle the rocker. Adjust #1 intake, #1 exhaust, #3 exhaust and #4 intake.

Rotate the engine a full turn so that the #1 intake starts close again and watch for the T-1 mark to line-up again. Double check the clearances on the valves you just adjusted to make sure you're right-on. If one of 'em is not right then re-adjust it. Rotate a full turn and check again. Always rotate the engine a full turn to check the clearances until they are right. Something could be off or worn and you wouldn't know unless you double check with a full turn (and even then something might not be evident).

If good then you're all done with that side. Clean the covers gasket and put it back on. Sgouldn't use or need any sealant or anything, ...just clean the rubber and the metal on the head where it seats.

Now, ...go to #2 cylinder, and do the same thing, ...turn engine over with the 12mm wrench 'til the #2 intake valve starts to close and watch again for the T-1 mark to lign up. Now adjust #2 intake and exhaust, #3 intake and #4 exhaust.

Double-check everything just like the other side. When it's all good then button it up.

Remember, do it all with a cold (relatively "cold"), ..you know, not hot or even warm.

Done.

After starting, let it get to operating temp and test it all out with a ride. If you're hearing something other than a light sewing machine-type sound, then something is either off or worn, so go back to it and start isolating it down. A nice and tight engine should have you hearing nothing much at all no matter the mileage.
 
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