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Just registered, so this is my first post (aside from my "New member" post). I'm looking for a little help/insight with the charging system on my '85 GL-1200L Limited Edition. Problems started out with battery not getting charged / bike running off the battery. I checked the stator connector by the battery, and here is what I found:





Have since hard-wired the connection by the battery. I may re-do it, though. I'm thinking about special-ordering some 12 ga. hook-up wire with thicker, high temp (125 deg. C.) insulation.



These stator wires were still getting REAL hot when idling - too hot to hold. So, decided I'd better check the rectifier/regulator, it's connectors, etc.



Notice the black tubular insulated gizmo on the left side of the picture? There was, if I remember correctly, a recall back in the day, to fit a 'jumper' harness and some additional grounding to reduce electrical noise in the radio/intercom. I haven't cut open the sheathing, but that looks like probably a pair of electrolytic capacitors to bleed noise to ground. The two white nylon 8 position connectors are the 'jumper' harness hooked to the connectors that would normally connect the regulator/rectifier into the system.

Here are the two ends of the 'jumper' harness, connected between the rectifier/regulator and the bike's wiring harness. See the darkened areas in the connectors? Ominous sign of what lies ahead:









Okay, time to hard-wire this as well. Cut the connectors off. I checked the rectifier side of things. Found 2 or 3 diodes had gone open. My new voltage regulator, from Ron Ayers (part # 31600-ML8-305) should arrive either today or Monday. (Note: Honda shops show a different part # if they're looking on their fiche, or parts catalog. They show it's no longer available. When I asked the parts guy to look for the 31600-ML8-305 and see what bike(s) it referenced back to, he confirmed it was for the GL-1200L, and said it was about $240.00) Ron Ayers charges less than that.

Here's where the need for help/insight comes in. Sorry it took so long to get here. I decided to check the wiring to make sure I didn't have any shorts in the harness, etc. In the DC charging side of the bike's harness, where the R/R would hook up to, there seems to be a (large value?) diode, or maybe an SCR, between the red/white wires (12V) and ground. I see about 130 ohms between the red/white and green wires (ground) on the bike's harness in one direction, and infinite (after a slight initial 'bump') in the other direction. Checking the wiring diagram (I have the original Honda shop manuals - base and 1200L supplement), I don't see a diode or SCR in this part of the circuitry. I'm a little leary of putting the new rectifier/regulator in until I understand this. Does anyone know what might be the cause??

During my initial checks, I disconnected the battery ground and checked for voltage between the battery negative term. and the ground cable - saw 12V at about 300 ma. with the trip computer totally disconnected. Not sure what that's about. Maybe the computer under the trunk draws some idle current ? May leakage across the bad/melted connectors?

Stator checks good.

When I start putting things back together, I'll probably run a separate heavy duty 12V line from one of the red/white wires from the regulator to the battery. I'm still thinking about some of the other wiring mods I've seen talked about for the 1200's. I may do something with the sense (black/green) wire coming out of the regulator, so it sees an accurate battery voltage.

Gary

 

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Looks to me like you pretty much have it under control with what you plan to do. 300ma. is pretty high for a static draw, I would check that out some more. Was that with the regulator connected? It may be the problem there. i would also take out that diode or SCR you see and try things without it, can't see a reason for that. I imagine those burned red wires was caused from trying to charge a bad battery or something added on that was simply too much load. They didn't give a lot of extra capacity to those charging systems.
 

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Davogd - Thanks for the quick response!

Yes, that 300 ma. current draw was with the regulator still connected. Good point, though. I'll have to go back and re-check with it out.

I still can't figure what would cause me to see about 130 ohms (rather than open) between the red and green wires that the R/R connect to (on the bike's wiring harness side). 130 ohms one direction, and open when I reverse the meter leads. (There is a slight 'bump' of the meter needle when I reverse the leads, before it goes back down to infinity.) Can't see in the wiring diagram where something like a diode or SCR would be in this area of the circuitry. Seems to me it might not be a good sign to have a current path between the hot side and ground at that point, even if it is presenting 130 ohms resistance. :?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Gary
 

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The wiring diagram I have shows no such thing, even though I have to put on my glasses and use a magnifying glass to see it, so it may be something someone added for who knows what reason. Possibly radio noise suppression?
 

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Well, I've cut out the old voltage regulator and still see a slight current draw when measuring between batt. neg. and the ground cable, but it's down to a couple of milliamps now. When I check the current draw, it looks like it spikes (for about 1/2 second) to about 150 ma. when I first hook up the meter, then drops to 2-3 ma.
The only thing I haven't tried yet is disconnecting the ECU. I don't know if it draws current when the bike is off, or not.

Using my analog meter to check for shorts, etc in the wiring harness for the voltage regulator (with voltage regulator gone), I was getting readings that made me think there was a diode in there somewhere between the red and green wires in the harness. Now I'm not sure. I'd get varying readings (depending on the meter range used) that, in one direction stayed steady (130 ohms on the 10k ohm range, for example). When I reversed the leads, I'd see a reading that started out very low, and briskly increased. Funny thing is, when I switched to using my digital meter for the same kind of check, I see no continuity at all in either polarity. Weird. Strange readings on my analog meter, no readings on my digital.

I want to figure out if there's a problem here before I install the new voltage regulator and burn it up.

This thing has me pulling my hair out.
I hope someone can help me figure this out before I'm completely bald.

Gary
 

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After reading your posts.....I think the ECU has a minor draw while the bike is off. But I am not sure on it. The radio has to keep it's memory or everytime you shut off/turn onthe bike you would have to reset the stations.

Remove the radio and then do the testing and see what ya get.

I am no Guru but I did have similar problems with my LTD when I first got it.

If the stator tests good, then solder the 3 yellow wires and you can go as far as soldering all the Reg/Rect connections, therefore bypassing the connectors.

Do not solder in the Noise Filter as you may not need it. I don't have it on mine and have no problems with noise in the intercom. Just test it with and without the filter and see if it is needed.

Any electrical gurus can jump in anytime:byebye:

Hope this helps!!
 

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Gary my advise here would be to run a separate wire in place of the red wire in case the insulation on it is almost melted through inside the harness. I suspect that because of your analog meter readings. An analog meter puts out whatever voltage the internal battery is so it is more likely to leak through bad insulation than a digital meter which emits very low voltage. your 2 or 3 ma. draw after the initial spike is Ok, probably get that much through thin air.
 
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