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Hi All... (1984 GL 1200 Aspy)

A bit depressed tonight...
Can't make this fuel pump run ...

Introduction : what i did so far...
. Pulled the carbs bank...
. Cleaned thoroughly each carbs and made sure each jet was clean inside out with emphasize on the slow jets super tiny holes...
. First try : engine cranks but stalls if I release the choke or try to give the slightest gas
. Started trouble shooting... original fuel pump not operational...
. Not the points ... end of the day the pump motor is seized... trash
. Bought a generic made in usa fuel pump 1.5 - 4 psi (did 't want to go with the chinese junk one... couldnt afford an OEM one
. New pump doesn't work when connected in the bike...
. Hard wired the pump to a 12v battery : works like a champ...
. I measure 13.6v at the connector from the old pump (btw i cut the little ******* and hard wired the pump)
. Still doesn't pump gas...
. Checked the petcock : clear
. Gas filter is new
. Here's what i did next : started the bike on its own battery and connected the gas pump to a separated 12v battery... it works .. the bike would crank at 1200 rpm for 2 seconds then goes to 900 rpm and would idle forever... same symptom as before if i try to turn the handle the engine stalls immediately (as if it was starving gas)
. Pilots screws are 2 turns out...
. Air filter is brand new
I don't know what to do next
Help please
Thanks
 

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You could have your co-rider man a bicycle pump plumbed into the fuel cap.


. Hard wired the pump to a 12v battery : works like a champ...
. I measure 13.6v at the connector from the old pump (btw i cut the little ******* and hard wired the pump)
. Still doesn't pump gas...
When it worked "like a champ", what was it pumping?


You might have a blocked line, maybe in the rubber hose? If you use a means to empty the tank so you don't make a huge mess, you could use some air to blow back through the supply line.
 

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Did you clean all the passages in the carbs, not just the jets? There are small holes just under the throttle plates that are the intermediate fuel passages where it draws fuel just as you are opening the throttle, before it starts drawing from the main jets.
 

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Also did you adjust float height when you did the carbs and how did you adjust the height? If you flipped the carbs upside down and adjusted like you would a car that is wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Crystal pistol... i don't understand the bicycle pump thing... / when the pump was" working like a champ" it was pumping gas that i siphoned into a Mason jar...
I did blow air back into the petcock to check it was not clogged...

Dave 0430... i'm gonna double check this... I'm not sure what we're talking about ... I don't know what you call the throttle plate... i might have cleaned this area without knowing what it is... if you had a picture or a drawing that would help... I'm gonna google it right now

Redwing 52 ... yes i did adjust the floats height... no not using the upsidedown method... using the "just touching the tip of the float needle method"

Bike and Dennis... no i didn't test the relay... i assumed that since I had almost 13v at the fuel pump pigtail the relay is working ... yes ?

Forgot to say that the very first time i cranked it i bypassed the fuel pump and used a squirt bottle and gravity to feed the carbs with gas...
I didn't notice that the handle was stuck in half the way ... the motor cranked at a good 3000 rpm for a few seconds before i released the handle...
So i would assume all the jets and passages were delivering gas to the carbs the way it should... that's why I really insisted on the gas pump not doing its job... but I'm gonna start fresh and re-do all the carbs cleaning job following you guys recommendations...
 

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Couple of thoughts that might or might not help you. You might already know this/or not?

The fuel pump only has power when the engine is running or turning with the starter.

The OEM pump will only run when the fuel pressure is near zero and the engine is turning.

This statement from earlier post is wrong:So i would assume all the jets and passages were delivering gas to the carbs the way it should.



A symptom of plugged passages is the bike will run and drive much better by adding fuel with the choke. This is a common issue on bikes that sit extended period. The passages are important to low end power. You can't get high end power if you can't get passed low end/ There are 4 or 6 tiny passages that are visible on the foor of the throttle bore just below the throttle plate with the throttle open. Varnished fuel in this area is very difficult to get out because the passage is so tiny. Don't put the carbs back on until you are sure they are open. You will have no "off idle" response until these ports are open.
I have heard of those who boil the carbs, use fine wire to probe the passages etc. Whatever you have to do to get them all open. When you blow in the jet compressed air should come out the passages. All of them. :)
 

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Crystal pistol... i don't understand the bicycle pump thing... / when the pump was" working like a champ" it was pumping gas that i siphoned into a Mason jar...
I did blow air back into the petcock to check it was not clogged...
Racers used to use pressurized fuel tanks with a hand pump they operated while on straights between turns. When they had a free hand, they reached for the pump handle to pump air pressure up in tank.


Not just to petcock, but all the way back into tank inlet end in the tank. Blowing back to petcock doesn't tell you there's no blockage in line from there to pickup in tank.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
JOHN..
Thank you for the enlarged pics... that helps a lot...
I still have a question for you...
Are these passages supposed to be before or after the throttle plate when it's closed...
Asking because right now on some of my carbs when in closed position one throttle plate shows the passages when the other mask them or barely shows them open...
It would make sense that they would be accessible at all time since they feed the motor even before the gas comes out of the jets...
If my reasoning is right how should i adjust that ?
Thanks a bunch...
320347
 

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JOHN..
Thank you for the enlarged pics... that helps a lot...
I still have a question for you...
Are these passages supposed to be before or after the throttle plate when it's closed...
Asking because right now on some of my carbs when in closed position one throttle plate shows the passages when the other mask them or barely shows them open...
It would make sense that they would be accessible at all time since they feed the motor even before the gas comes out of the jets...
If my reasoning is right how should i adjust that ?
Thanks a bunch... View attachment 320347
The configuration of the idle or low speed passages varies from carb to carb. Some carbs have several tiny ones in a row. In this case as you roll in the throttle more fuel is added as more air is added. In the old days it was common to see one bigger hole or even a slot. That tended to make the engine run richer at idle and pollute more. The bigger hole did not plug near as easily of course. In your case I would expect to see only one exposed at idle. If you see all exposed that is an indication they might be plugged and the idle screw had to be turned in so far as to draw fuel from the main jet. The main jet does not do a good job metering small amounts of fuel for idle. Usually the bike will really stink and make your eyes burn.
 

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Asking because right now on some of my carbs when in closed position one throttle plate shows the passages when the other mask them or barely shows them open...
It would make sense that they would be accessible at all time since they feed the motor even before the gas comes out of the jets...
If my reasoning is right how should i adjust that ?
Thanks a bunch...

What you are observing is an out of sync carb rack. When doing a sync you are balancing the carbs by using manifold vacuum as a gauge. The amount of vacuum that can be achieved in a cylinder is dependent on spark quality, compression and mixture correctness. Any deficiency in the previous will show as a lower than optimal vacuum reading making the sync ineffective, a sync is never a cure for a poor running engine where the power balance is not equal among the cylinders. All things equal throttle plate opening deviation will be within very tight tolerances on a correctly tuned and performing engine.
Do a bench sync of the carbs prior to installation and if not running correctly after install with RPM adjustment then diagnose the problem as to the why. Avoid the temptation to manipulate sync screws to make the engine run somewhat because doing so just masks an underlying problem. After a bench sync and subsequent mixture adjustment once running, the screws need only be adjusted a quarter turn or so to achieve balance.
 
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