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I have a 87 GL 1200 that is putting 15.6 dc volts into the battery @ 4,000 RPM. Stator and voltage regulator have been replaced less than 250 miles ago. Any ideas
 

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Only thing it can be is the rectifier/regulator.... I can't see any other possibility..
 

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I'd agree with sandiegobrass. I know it's an obvious question but are you sure the meter is ok? ...Steve
 

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definitely the regulator,but pull the tank and check the connectors
 

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steve worth wrote:
I'd agree with sandiegobrass. I know it's an obvious question but are you sure the meter is ok? ...Steve
good thought!!! and better to use an analog meter.. the high impedance digitals might be reading the peaks of a noisey signal...regulatormight be okay???..
 

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1987 GL1200 Interstate
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First, I agree with the others here. Could be a false reading from the meter. That kind of voltage would be cooking the battery. Check to see if it's dry.

Also, are you sure the regulator was replaced? You wouldn't be the first toget lied to about such things.
 

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Check for loose ground wires. Mine was doing the same thing and I found a poorly crimped connection made by the PO. I soldered it and the voltage dropped from 15.6 to 14.8.
 

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Ditto nobbie, a bad ground at the regulator will cause overcharging. Verify the voltage with a separate meter first though.
 

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thanks alot guys for the ideas! Iknow the regulator is new as I was the one who replaced it. The battery does appear to be dry thus why I checked for the overcharging. I will run down the ground wires first then go the route of trying another regulator. Thanks again
 

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I did a stator and regulator change on my bike.Right from the start the voltage was OK,then a few seconds the voltage slowly climbed it's way to 18.4 volts then suddenly went back to 13.8.This continued over and over!I replaced the new regulator with the old(both times hardwired)and everything was back to normal!I explained this situation to ElectroSport Industries, from whom I purchased the parts,and the regulator was promptly replaced with a call tag for the defective unit!I'm very pleased with the way things were handled!So it's quite possible the new reg. is no good!
 

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Alright I am ready to pull my hair out. Cleaned all my connections and grounds, used a different meter to be sure, ran a seperate engine and chassis ground to be sure I had good ground and replaced the reg/rectifier with a new one and still get 15.2-15.3 dc volts @ 4,000 rpm. Any more ideas are greatly appreciated.
 

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Well that is a strange one. The regulator is what "regulates" the voltage. if it's not doing it (as I once had on a suzuki) I would expect more like 18 volts or nothing. It certainly seems to be "checking" the voltage, but at a higher than normal level. On the Suzuki, I had installed a Honda regulator to replace the poorly designed Suzuki one but forgot a wire that goes back to the battery as a sort of reference- but as I said, that caused the regulator to run away at 18 volts. Is it boiling the battery?...Steve
 

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Huh...where did you get the regulator? The reason I ask is because I believe they had a differentunit for the SEI and LTD and I wonder if you're getting the wrong one. Although I can't figure why they would be different. Correct voltage isn't negotiable.
 

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LTD and the SEI have different plugs than the standard one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
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Please keep the ideas coming. Yes it is boiling the battery, although it takes a while. The regulator is from Rick's Motorsports both times. Thanks for the ideas.
 

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pulse generator, the one found in front of the timing belts is causing the overcharging, cost @$110.00
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
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Great!!! Is there any way to test that to be 100% sure? I am all about fixing the problem but we all know electrical parts are non returnable. Any info is greatly appreciated. Thank You
 

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dan filipi wrote:
pulse generator, the one found in front of the timing belts is causing the overcharging
How can that be?
Please elaborate.
??? me too??? Is the pulse generator even connected to the electrical system???

No it is not.. it only connects to the ECU
 
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