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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1986 GL1200 injection
I bought it a few days ago as a project,.
My first job is to get it running properly .
When it starts it runs terribly rich , and backfires up through the throttle bodies.
Is the anything i should be checking other than , belt timing, compression, vacuum leaks,
Previous owner said he changed the fuel pump and injectors ,.
 

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Check for fault codes first. How does it run after it warms up?
 

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Might be o2 sensor,mine did that in 85
 

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Might be o2 sensor,mine did that in 85
They didn't have O2 sensors. The vacuum lines running up to the sensors on each side of the frame, PB sensor I think is what they call them,or the vacuum line to the pressure regulator can cause that or the throttle position sensor.
 

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1985 GL1200 Limited Edition
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Might be o2 sensor,mine did that in 85
Sorry.. There is No O2 sensor on either year GL1200 Fuelie....

If the PO still has the fuel pump and injectors, get them if you can! Chances are they are still good!! If the bike has sat for a few years the Throttle Position sensor might have developed a "Flat spot" and is not supplying the correct voltage info to the CFI. You can try rolling the throttle several times before cranking her up or set the idle a bit higher at about 1200rpm's or so to get past the bad spot for right now.. The more/longer you can get her to run, the better she'll run!!!

Let us know what you find out...
 

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My NEW 85 crapped out and was running rich and in safe mode,had to leave it in Ohio,seems they said it was o2 but been too long I guess
 

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1985 GL1200 Limited Edition
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My NEW 85 crapped out and was running rich and in safe mode,had to leave it in Ohio,seems they said it was o2 but been too long I guess

The same thing happened to mine when it was new and within warranty. The funny thing is Daytona Honda, where my B-I-L bought the bike couldn't repair it so he took it to the dealer in Ocala which was able to repair the bike and, except for when she sat for 7 years, has run like a top ever since!! He told me what was wrong with her but I've forgotten exactly what was wrong with her....
 

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I was on a trip to Akron Ohio from Tulsa and mine crapped out in Indiana but ran on to Akron,took 3 weeks to fix it,I borrowed mBIL 83 to get back to work and he met me in StLouis when they got mine fixed,never had another problem for 125,000 miles,totaled it out at that mileage.
It was new so Honda picked up the cost.ran real rich and mileage was down but I had a sidecar on it
 

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Agree with the above. You can have a faulty TPS and no error code. No O2 sensor, the probable culprit is the TPS. Need to determine what the TPS is set at, very small calibration range - 0.475 to 0.495 VDC. The higher the calibration, closer to the 0.495, the more fuel is used. Better to calibrate towards the lower setting. These do get a flat spot in the area that is used the most. This generally shows up as a hesitation when accelerating.

You mention it backfires up through the air box, definitely the TPS.

You can tell if there is an error code without looking at the ECU. The "FUEL SYSTEM" light on the dash should be on. The "FUEL SYSTEM" light is a CFI system check light, has nothing to do with the fuel supply system except the injectors. The ECU has a built in diagnostic system that checks for electrical signals from the CFI components.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yes , The fuel system light is on. Do i just replace the TPS?
 

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As mentioned you now have to check the error code on the ECU, left side of the bike under the trunk. This will let you know what the problem is.LTD ECM Trouble lights.pdf
 

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1985 GL1200 Limited Edition
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After further thought on this, and going from my own experience when I was trying to get mine running when I first bought her, Get 2 manometers and check the balance from left to right.. The fuel system has obviously been tinkered with so if the wrong screw was turned to bring the Idle up this can cause all the problems you've described including the fuel light staying on!! I know this because, at the time, the only adjustment screw I could find was the adjustment screw under the CFI cover on the right side of the bike! I thought that was the Idle screw and it wasn't!! It was the balance screw!! The Idle screw is located at the center rear of the engine and can be located easily by using a flashlight and rotating the throttle while looking at the throttle linkage movement at the rear of the engine.. With the engine off of course!!!!

I'd check this before tossing parts at her!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
At the moment i am tidying the garage to begin the task,
I really appreciate all of the comments and suggestions, so for starters i will begin with the following,
Remove the plugs and see can i identify the affected cylinders.
Check compression,
check timing marks on the cam belts.
Read fault codes, ( when i understand how to do it)
check balance between throttle bodies.
That i hope should help me to locate the problem and repair.
wish me luck , and i will post back the result, that's if i don't have to ask for more help beforehand.
 

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1985 GL1200 Limited Edition
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If you could, remove the chrome CFI cover on the right side of the engine, roll the throttle slowly and see if you can find the balance adjustment screw there. Let me know if it appears to be backed out or unscrewed out from off the center of the screw. This will tell me if I'm on the right track without you taking taking too much apart.... One other thing is you can use an IR thermometer to check the header pipes to see which side is running lean, (Hot), and rich, (cold)....
 

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Post #10 mentions the Fuel System light is on. If the fuel system light is on, something in the CFI system is amiss. Have to get the error code first then determine a way ahead. The cylinder balance does not make an error code.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Today i located the ecu,
with the ignition turned on. I think its fault code 10 and 20. am i correct

watch the video here.
 

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Today i located the ecu,
with the ignition turned on. I think its fault code 10 and 20. am i correct

watch the video here.
Was the engine running when you were looking at those ECU lights? It looks like with those lights flashing it is saying the injectors have a problem and if so it wouldn't be running.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Was the engine running when you were looking at those ECU lights? It looks like with those lights flashing it is saying the injectors have a problem and if so it wouldn't be running.
No, engine wasn't running. But I took the lights as code , 20 and 30.
 
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