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You guessed it..I have the grand ol` job of replacing the Stator in my 85 Aspy. My question is if its worth doing myself? I`m fairly good at engine work on cars,having rebuilt enough engines and installed/removed more than my share.I think the bike engine doesnt look to hard,but looks can be deceiving!

My brother tried to "test" the charging system by disconnecting the postive side of the battery and see if the engine would continue to run.I know this is the wrong way,but its been done and the engine shuts off as soon as the battery cable is removed,telling me that the entire electrical supply is from the battery and not the Stator.

Or could it be the Voltage Regulator???
 

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zonk3939 wrote:
You guessed it..I have the grand ol` job of replacing the Stator in my 85 Aspy. My question is if its worth doing myself? I`m fairly good at engine work on cars,having rebuilt enough engines and installed/removed more than my share.I think the bike engine doesnt look to hard,but looks can be deceiving!

My brother tried to "test" the charging system by disconnecting the postive side of the battery and see if the engine would continue to run.I know this is the wrong way,but its been done and the engine shuts off as soon as the battery cable is removed,telling me that the entire electrical supply is from the battery and not the Stator.

Or could it be the Voltage Regulator???
Zonk, you might be better off doing the job yourself, itisn't all that bad a job & most bike shops now don't like to work on older bikes & tend to cut corners when possible.

Now on your stator test?.. Testing a Wing stator by pulling a battery cable is not a very good test. Due to the low (or evennegative) output of the early wing charging system at low engine RPM's almost all won't have enough current output at idle or low RPM's to keep them running.

A better test is to pull the 3 yellow wire connector (just in front of the battery) then use a voltmeter placed on the AC 100 volt scale & measure between the 3 yellow wires coming from the rear of the engine.. Mark the 3 yellow wires A, B & C.. Then with the engine running at 3000-4000 RPM's measure from A to B,, B to C,, & A to C.. You need to see about 50+ volts ACfrom each leg & about the same outputfrom each.

Then you can place your meter on the X1 ohms scale & measure for continuity of each yellow wire to ground (none of the 3 wires should show any continuity to ground)..

If you pass the above tests your problem lies elsewhere.. Check the connections at that first (3 yellow wire) connector, at the regulator, at the starter relay (behind the battery).. If any bad connections are found cut the connector out & solder the wires directly.

Any questions on the above just post back.

Twisty
 

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Zonk,
Welcome to the forum!
Tell us more about the problem. Does the battery run down while riding? Have you checked the connectors from the stator and regulator? Unplug them and look in the ends, for burned terminals.
Be sure to check all the easy stuff first!
 

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I had a similar problemwith mine. Thanks to the forum I checked the connectionson the wires by the battery. The connectors were yellow and brittle. Upon checking one of the wires was lose. Cutthe connectors out one at a time andpieced a wire back in (soldered at each end). Fixedthe problem. Thanksto the Forum !!:)
 

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so here i the skinny on testing your stator Learned it all from this forum Its the way to find out what's wrong

Get a digital volt meter A/C and DC as well as resistance

Pull battery cover off and put bike on centre stand

On the left side of the battery you will see three yellow wires either going to a plug or wired straight thru by previous owner Start the bike

Disconnect the plug OR cut the three yellow wires one at a time VERY important ONE at a time mark wires A ; B : C;

put meter on A/C scale across any combination A-B; B-C; A-C rev bike to 3000 RPm you should see 45 to 60 volts A/C across any of above combination

does not hurt bike to run with this disconnected

If OK shut bike off measure on resistance scale (50K is good) from each of three wires to ground It should be infinite EG open must not have any shorts to ground

If both measurements are ok (volts and resistance)your stator is good

Next ifyou havethe plug; cut it out and solder each of the three yellow wires straight thru cover with heatshrink ( throw the plug at the neighbors cat or some thing) piece of crap

Next if all above is good have batt load tested at batt shop if OK charge overnight measure DC volts straight across battery after charge should be about 13.5-13.9 VDC Start bike with meter still attached to battery voltage will go down while cranking over but should come back up to 13 plus when you rev bike turn on Hi Beams volt should drop slightly but still be over 13 VDC if not eg 11 to 11.5 dc replace regulator 10 min job (lots on ebay)

good luck Neil
 

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johnmac wrote:
Zonk,
Welcome to the forum!
Tell us more about the problem. Does the battery run down while riding? Have you checked the connectors from the stator and regulator? Unplug them and look in the ends, for burned terminals.
Be sure to check all the easy stuff first!
Thanks for the quick replies everybody!

The bike was fine til Monday.It oprated fine and ran perfect.I went to go to work and it wouldnt start..dead battery.I charged the battery and it got me to work,but had lost all of its juice when I got there.I put the charger back on it and it recharged the battery and got me home.

I read about the 3 yellow wires and connector and sure enough,mine was corroded and blackened,as though it had burned.
 

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twisty wrote:
zonk3939 wrote:
You guessed it..I have the grand ol` job of replacing the Stator in my 85 Aspy. My question is if its worth doing myself? I`m fairly good at engine work on cars,having rebuilt enough engines and installed/removed more than my share.I think the bike engine doesnt look to hard,but looks can be deceiving!

My brother tried to "test" the charging system by disconnecting the postive side of the battery and see if the engine would continue to run.I know this is the wrong way,but its been done and the engine shuts off as soon as the battery cable is removed,telling me that the entire electrical supply is from the battery and not the Stator.

Or could it be the Voltage Regulator???
Zonk, you might be better off doing the job yourself, itisn't all that bad a job & most bike shops now don't like to work on older bikes & tend to cut corners when possible.

Now on your stator test?.. Testing a Wing stator by pulling a battery cable is not a very good test. Due to the low (or evennegative) output of the early wing charging system at low engine RPM's almost all won't have enough current output at idle or low RPM's to keep them running.

A better test is to pull the 3 yellow wire connector (just in front of the battery) then use a voltmeter placed on the AC 100 volt scale & measure between the 3 yellow wires coming from the rear of the engine.. Mark the 3 yellow wires A, B & C.. Then with the engine running at 3000-4000 RPM's measure from A to B,, B to C,, & A to C.. You need to see about 50+ volts ACfrom each leg & about the same outputfrom each.

Then you can place your meter on the X1 ohms scale & measure for continuity of each yellow wire to ground (none of the 3 wires should show any continuity to ground)..

If you pass the above tests your problem lies elsewhere.. Check the connections at that first (3 yellow wire) connector, at the regulator, at the starter relay (behind the battery).. If any bad connections are found cut the connector out & solder the wires directly.

Any questions on the above just post back.

Twisty
Twisty, Two comments. Turn the bike off before you do the ground test and second, place your meter on the highest ohms scale. A megger would be even better.
 

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twisty wrote:
Zonk, you might be better off doing the job yourself, itisn't all that bad a job & most bike shops now don't like to work on older bikes & tend to cut corners when possible.

Now on your stator test?.. Testing a Wing stator by pulling a battery cable is not a very good test. Due to the low (or evennegative) output of the early wing charging system at low engine RPM's almost all won't have enough current output at idle or low RPM's to keep them running.

A better test is to pull the 3 yellow wire connector (just in front of the battery) then use a voltmeter placed on the AC 100 volt scale & measure between the 3 yellow wires coming from the rear of the engine.. Mark the 3 yellow wires A, B & C.. Then with the engine running at 3000-4000 RPM's measure from A to B,, B to C,, & A to C.. You need to see about 50+ volts ACfrom each leg & about the same outputfrom each.

Then you can place your meter on the X1 ohms scale & measure for continuity of each yellow wire to ground (none of the 3 wires should show any continuity to ground)..

If you pass the above tests your problem lies elsewhere.. Check the connections at that first (3 yellow wire) connector, at the regulator, at the starter relay (behind the battery).. If any bad connections are found cut the connector out & solder the wires directly.

Any questions on the above just post back.

Twisty
When doing the AC test on the 3 yellow wires,do I hook the black(Negative) wire from the meter to a yellow wire and the positve (red) wire ffrom the voltmeter to another yellow wire?



In the continuity teat,I ground the black side of the ohmeter and use the red side to touch each yellow wire?



Thanks for the help..I`ll check both when I get home today.





BTW,what do you guys think of the Auto Alternator instead of a stator? I`m wondering how hard it is to do,as I see all the parts except the alternator come in his kit.Just dont want to get involved in buying it and installing and have problems down the road.
 

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Re your questions on using a meter the way you describe is the right way good luck on your tests have a good look at all the wiring measure across a-b; b-c; a-c; 45-60 vac each

then bike off a ; b; c; to ground black to frame of bike red to each yellow lead one at a time

I was within an inch of doing the alt conversion(bought or made all the parts ) only to find that some previous owner had made a second connection on stator wiring low down about 4 inches from where wiring enters rear of motor(the splice was under factory sleeve and I found it just by luck this is what I found so before you go ahead and start tearing down look around at all wiring etc (maybe get an electrician friend to help you measure)
 

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zonk3939 wrote:
When doing the AC test on the 3 yellow wires,do I hook the black(Negative) wire from the meter to a yellow wire and the positve (red) wire ffrom the voltmeter to another yellow wire?



In the continuity teat,I ground the black side of the ohmmeter and use the red side to touch each yellow wire?



Thanks for the help..I`ll check both when I get home today.





BTW,what do you guys think of the Auto Alternator instead of a stator? I`m wondering how hard it is to do,as I see all the parts except the alternator come in his kit.Just dont want to get involved in buying it and installing and have problems down the road.
Zonk, you ask..


When doing the AC test on the 3 yellow wires,do I hook the black(Negative) wire from the meter to a yellow wire and the positve (red) wire ffrom the voltmeter to another yellow wire?

It doesn't matter as you are USING THE AC (alternating current) setting & AC current isn't polarity sensitive. SO, you can hook up either way & still get a viable reading. (be sure to test on the meters AC scale & set the meter to at least the 100 volt scale as you should see somewheres in the 50 volt AC range.



In the continuity teat,I ground the black side of the ohmmeter and use the red side to touch each yellow wire?
You are measuring resistance so that isn't polarity sensitive either so hooked up either way will work. Use black to ground or red to ground & it should read the same. Be sure to have the 3 wires disconnected from the front wire harness (engine off) & use a low ohm scale like 1X or 10X,, don't use a 100X or the meg scale as you will probably get a slight reading on that scale due to the oil on the windings & that could be confusing if not understood correctly (for a basic continuity check just use the lowest scale {1X}).



BTW,what do you guys think of the Auto Alternator instead of a stator? I`m wondering how hard it is to do,as I see all the parts except the alternator come in his kit.Just dont want to get involved in buying it and installing and have problems down the road.

That's a good question. Some of the members here are sold on it & are running that set-up. My personal feeling is to use the existing stator if it is still working as that is a well sealed unit that takes no bike modification to install. On my own bikeI could probably pull the engine & install a new stator faster than making the modification to install the external alternator. If I needed the extra power supplied by an add-on alternator I would probably look into it a little more. One thing that bothers me about the conversion is the loss of sealing at the front belt covers. I ride ALL WEATHER & that is in driving rain, DEEP water puddles, deep mud, lots of tossed up rocks & stones. I have come home in foul weather & had the radiator completely plugged with mud, so with that exposed beltI would worry about belt problems or crud entering the timing belt area. It probably wouldn't be a big issue if you are only a fair weather rider.

Twisty
 

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OK,I tried to test it but not sure I did it correctly as my Multimeter has weird markings..

There are 2 selections for AC Volts..one is labeled with a V and a ~ above it..using that and it set on 200 (I have a choice of 500 or 200 ) I get a 57,54 and 13 testing between the 3 yellow wires..a-b,B-c,A-C.

My other choice is an A with a sign above it..one solid line with three dots under it.It has the following selections within in 10A,200m,20m,2000u (well,a sign that ooks like a backwards u)200 u. I`m not sure what this area is and I get funky readings with it,

Did I use the correct area to test when I got the 57,54 and 13?

Now,continuity I`m not sure what tells me if I have continuity..do I need a certain number to be reached or should I get nothing at all?



I did check the DC V and at rest the battery reads 12.8..when I run it it reads 12.1.
 

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zonk3939 wrote:
OK,I tried to test it but not sure I did it correctly as my Multimeter has weird markings..

There are 2 selections for AC Volts..one is labeled with a V and a ~ above it..using that and it set on 200 (I have a choice of 500 or 200 ) I get a 57,54 and 13 testing between the 3 yellow wires..a-b,B-c,A-C.

My other choice is an A with a sign above it..one solid line with three dots under it.It has the following selections within in 10A,200m,20m,2000u (well,a sign that ooks like a backwards u)200 u. I`m not sure what this area is and I get funky readings with it,

Did I use the correct area to test when I got the 57,54 and 13?

Now,continuity I`m not sure what tells me if I have continuity..do I need a certain number to be reached or should I get nothing at all?
I did check the DC V and at rest the battery reads 12.8..when I run it it reads 12.1.
Zonk, that AC with the ~ above it is in fact AC volts & you read on the 200 volt scale if set at 200. The readings you have are not good.. The 57 & 54 are good but the 13 isn't good news.

It could mean you have a bad stator. OR, it could mean you had a bad connection on that leg. Strip that wire back a little bit until you are SURE you are back into clean wire. Then re-run the test on that leg. If still at 13 or so volts AC it isn't good & probably means stator replacement time.

On the continuity test, use the lowest Ohm setting (looks like an upside down U with a couple of small lines coming out the sides. If you don't have an R X1 scale use theK scale.For you to be in good shape you want to be as close to infinity (open) as possible onthe resistance (veryhigh number). To see how your meter works, wet a piece of paper then measure the resistanceof itacross the width. Then measure across a copper penny. You want o to be as high or higher than the wet paper, not low like the penny.

Twisty
 

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yes the 13 is bad. The other was AMPS Do not use it!



Twisty, why do you keep looking for the lower resistance settings, your looking for ground leakage so you want the higher setting, right?



PM Me, let's not confuse anyone here.
 

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Brojees wrote:
Twisty, why do you keep looking for the lower resistance settings, your looking for ground leakage so you want the higher setting, right?
That depends, IF, you are electronics savvy & know how to understand a slight resistance to ground then about any scale will work. Problem is; if I would tell him to use the M scale it WILL show some slight resistance to ground (how much I don't know).. That resistance would vary by stator temperature, how much oil is soaked into the windings, how much zinc is (was) in the oil, etc. It's easier to just have people use the RX1 or K scale as it is then basically a yes or no deal with no guessing at how much resistance to ground is too much.. If a stator shows continuity to ground on the RX1 or K scale it is BAD. If it shows continuity to ground on the M scale (it will show some) where to draw the line?

Twisty
 

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Well,I got the same results so I`m convinced its the stator..my local dealer wont be able to get it in til mid august..so I`m doing it myself or putting on the auto alternator.
 

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zonk3939 wrote:
Well,I got the same results so I`m convinced its the stator..my local dealer wont be able to get it in til mid august..so I`m doing it myself or putting on the auto alternator.
Randakk recommends this guy for Goldwing electrical parts, might not have to wait and their price looks pretty good.

http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/index.php?c=partLookup
 

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Sorry to be so long getting back to your post. Twisty is as usual, right on the money with his savy info. Sorry to hear about the bad alternator, most of the shops in my area want 3 >>>5 times the cost of the alternator to install. Three years ago I was quoted $900.00 from the oldest Honda dealer in my area for LABOR. Parts were extra. (Your mileage may vary)

Makes the thought of doing the auto conversion a lot more plausible. At the time I wasn't able to find any info on the subject, and wasn't aware of this great forum. Ended up doing the replacement over the week-end. Not real difficult, just tedius. Best wishes and do keep us informed on your progress. :gunhead:
 
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