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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
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You guessed it..I have the grand ol` job of replacing the Stator in my 85 Aspy. My question is if its worth doing myself? I`m fairly good at engine work on cars,having rebuilt enough engines and installed/removed more than my share.I think the bike engine doesnt look to hard,but looks can be deceiving!

My brother tried to "test" the charging system by disconnecting the postive side of the battery and see if the engine would continue to run.I know this is the wrong way,but its been done and the engine shuts off as soon as the battery cable is removed,telling me that the entire electrical supply is from the battery and not the Stator.

Or could it be the Voltage Regulator???
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
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johnmac wrote:
Zonk,
Welcome to the forum!
Tell us more about the problem. Does the battery run down while riding? Have you checked the connectors from the stator and regulator? Unplug them and look in the ends, for burned terminals.
Be sure to check all the easy stuff first!
Thanks for the quick replies everybody!

The bike was fine til Monday.It oprated fine and ran perfect.I went to go to work and it wouldnt start..dead battery.I charged the battery and it got me to work,but had lost all of its juice when I got there.I put the charger back on it and it recharged the battery and got me home.

I read about the 3 yellow wires and connector and sure enough,mine was corroded and blackened,as though it had burned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
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twisty wrote:
Zonk, you might be better off doing the job yourself, itisn't all that bad a job & most bike shops now don't like to work on older bikes & tend to cut corners when possible.

Now on your stator test?.. Testing a Wing stator by pulling a battery cable is not a very good test. Due to the low (or evennegative) output of the early wing charging system at low engine RPM's almost all won't have enough current output at idle or low RPM's to keep them running.

A better test is to pull the 3 yellow wire connector (just in front of the battery) then use a voltmeter placed on the AC 100 volt scale & measure between the 3 yellow wires coming from the rear of the engine.. Mark the 3 yellow wires A, B & C.. Then with the engine running at 3000-4000 RPM's measure from A to B,, B to C,, & A to C.. You need to see about 50+ volts ACfrom each leg & about the same outputfrom each.

Then you can place your meter on the X1 ohms scale & measure for continuity of each yellow wire to ground (none of the 3 wires should show any continuity to ground)..

If you pass the above tests your problem lies elsewhere.. Check the connections at that first (3 yellow wire) connector, at the regulator, at the starter relay (behind the battery).. If any bad connections are found cut the connector out & solder the wires directly.

Any questions on the above just post back.

Twisty
When doing the AC test on the 3 yellow wires,do I hook the black(Negative) wire from the meter to a yellow wire and the positve (red) wire ffrom the voltmeter to another yellow wire?



In the continuity teat,I ground the black side of the ohmeter and use the red side to touch each yellow wire?



Thanks for the help..I`ll check both when I get home today.





BTW,what do you guys think of the Auto Alternator instead of a stator? I`m wondering how hard it is to do,as I see all the parts except the alternator come in his kit.Just dont want to get involved in buying it and installing and have problems down the road.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
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OK,I tried to test it but not sure I did it correctly as my Multimeter has weird markings..

There are 2 selections for AC Volts..one is labeled with a V and a ~ above it..using that and it set on 200 (I have a choice of 500 or 200 ) I get a 57,54 and 13 testing between the 3 yellow wires..a-b,B-c,A-C.

My other choice is an A with a sign above it..one solid line with three dots under it.It has the following selections within in 10A,200m,20m,2000u (well,a sign that ooks like a backwards u)200 u. I`m not sure what this area is and I get funky readings with it,

Did I use the correct area to test when I got the 57,54 and 13?

Now,continuity I`m not sure what tells me if I have continuity..do I need a certain number to be reached or should I get nothing at all?



I did check the DC V and at rest the battery reads 12.8..when I run it it reads 12.1.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
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Well,I got the same results so I`m convinced its the stator..my local dealer wont be able to get it in til mid august..so I`m doing it myself or putting on the auto alternator.
 
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