GL 1200 Stator quit, I think

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If the plug is broken that has the three yellow wires going into it, I would remove the plug and solder ther three wires together. It doesn't matter which yellow wire to which yellow wire as long as you have 3 yellow to 3 yellow. If that doesn't solve your problem, I would go with the poorboy kit. Works like a dream and you have so much more current to run anything electrical you want.

Bernie

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At 70k the clutch should be OK, it probably needs bleeding or even the rubber brake lines changed, they are 25 years old.

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I too thought I might need a new clutch on my 1200. I replaced the fluid and it's like brand new. I think the fluid had never been changed it was awful black slime coming out.
Make sure you have a good battery and your Reg/Rec is working before you jump into replacing the stator. If/when my stator fails, I'm surely going to do the poorboy conversion. Really cool innovative stuff.
I took some 10g wire and bypassed all the connectors from the Stator to the R/R just in case. the one by the battery was working, but you wouldn't know it by sight. it was black, melted, and charred.
Do all the free/easy stuff before you try and fix the stator.
-Kevin

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If I were you, I would do a search for stator testing on this site..and if the stator is bad, I would go with the poor boy conversion. I changed over to a car alternator about 6 months ago and it has been a very good decision. My main concern was pulling the motor and changing the stator, only to have it go bad again in a few thousand miles. If my external alternator goes bad, I just take it to the local shop and have it rebuilt...Just seems simpler to me. But, the bonus of having a car alternator is that I have plenty of juice. I just installed a inexpensive 240 watt stereo booster and the sound is heavenly....and even with the booster, I still have plenty of juice.

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If it is the clutch then the plates can be replaced in situ- bit of a fiddle but possible. The external (poorboy style) alternator route is the permanent fix for the stator problem. Have you done all the checks? I presume the 12v you mention is 12 volt AC from the stator across any combination of pairs. You should get up to 70v AC at 3000revs and no DC continuity to earth at rest....Steve

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As for the clutch, I don't think I'd fool with it until it actually goes out..My clutch will not engage until the lever is almost completely released...but it's been like that for a while now..doesn't seem to get any worse..When it goes, I'll just deal with it..like everything else.. If you own an old bike, make plans to spend time working on something..there are always opportunities...