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I just bought my first Goldwing this winter and have been going through it and I discovered that one of the cylinders has 30 lbs less compression then the others. If I put some oil in that cylinder it will jump up to about 10 less.

What would you suggest to do? Just drive it for awhile and see what happens or will that potentially damage it even more?

So far I put new timing belts on, cleaned and synced the carbs, fuel filter, new gas lines, and did a coolant flush. Is there anything else that I'm missing?

Thanks for any help!
 

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I guess you'll get some answers pretty soon, recommending sea foam. Since sea foam isn't available here, you won't get that advice from me. I believe the first thing i'd do is to perform a cylinder leak test with proper equipment, to determine wheather your leak is due to a burnt or sticking valve or clogged piston rings. If it's the piston rings, this infamous sea foam might be an alternative. Good luck!
 

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I wouldn't worry too much about it run it a bit and see if that cylinder is still low. It could be just a bit of grit under a valve head that will work out. What pressure were you getting on the other jugs? Was the engine warm, throttle and choke wide open and a good fresh battery with full charge used?

Just on the possibility the head gasket is leaking: Do you see any white smoke coming from one of the exhaust pipes on start up? Bubbles coming up in the radiator neck when the engine is running, or one of the spark plugs considerably cleaner looking than the rest?
 

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The rest of the cylinders are at like 120 throttle closed and the other plugs in so I thought that was pretty good! On that cylinder everything looks good as far as the plugs goes and I haven't noticed anything like bubbles and there is no white smoke at all!
 

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I already put some sea foam in and didn't notice anything difference! I never even thought of a leak down test. I'll have do that!
 

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I doubt you will even notice the difference in the bike other than a little at idle. It is not worth worrying about. If it were me I would just ride it. If it never gets worse you are ahead of the game. If it gets worse then you might have to fix it. I doubt it will ever be a seriousissue.



You should be checking compression at Wide Open throttle.
 

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Before you do anything go back and do the compression test with wide open throttle. if that cylinders carb throttle plate is closed farther than the others at idle it will show somewhat less compression. By the way if that turns out to be th ecase make sure you synch your carbs too.
 

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Yes, I would redo the compression test. Like Tbear said wide open throttle, Remove ALL 4 spark plugs when you do the test. My only question is, How long has the bike sat? When they sit for a long time the rings tend to get 'stuck' from lack of lubrication. I would spray some penetration oil (like PB or WD40) into the cylinders and let it sit a couple of days. Then start it and ride it for a while (week or so). Don't worry about the smoke on first start up. That's just the penetrant oil burning off. This will allow the rings to loosen up and seal properly. Then do another compression test(throttle open, plugs removed) and let us know what the readings are.
 

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A compression test should definitely be done with the throttle all the way open, and all the plugs out. If that cylinder still has low compression, and oil brings it up, then it is leaking past the rings. Oil will not make any change on a head gasket or valves. But, if it runs good, like everybody said, don't worry about it. I put over 50,000 miles on a '64 Ford straight six with 2 low cylinders, it ran fine, and still had plenty of power. I drove it on a couple of 3,000 mile round trips at freeway speeds. It did burn some oil, but I just kept pouring oil in it. I finally got all the parts together and rebuilt it. 20 years later, I am still driving it.
 

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When you add oil and compression goes up thats rings are bad , if you add oil and nothing happens thats valves.Thats the skinny.You can add seafoam or mystery oil to the effective cylinder (4ozs) over nite and hope that frees them up.it has worked for me good luck:thumbsup:
 

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The bike sat for about 2 years, but they previous owner put oil in yearly. But I will try the compression test with it wide open and report back!

Thanks for the help!
 

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So I got everything put back together and synced the carbs and let it warm up with throttle wide open and I got 120 on all of them now! But the problem is the plugs are now white so idk why it is running hot.

I took it for a little spin too and the clutch was slipping. It wasn't slipping right away but after a few miles it started to. Is it possible that there is air in the lines?
 

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If the plugs are white, then you are running too lean, and that will definitely make it overheat. Look for air leaks around the carbs, especially the carbs themselves, and between the carbs and heads. But if all the plugs look about the same, you probably need to rejet the carbs richer.

I hate the 1200 clutch with a passion. I had to rebuild my master cylinder, replace the slave cylinder, I tried and tried to bleed it, but could not get it to work right. Finally put a SpeedBleeder on it, and got it bled properly. Then the sight glass on the master cylinder started leaking, I had to take everything apart AGAIN, remove the PLASTIC sight glass, or what was left of it, and fill the hole with JBWeld. A cable worked just fine on the 1100, I have no idea why they switched to such a complicated, expensive to fix, and troublesome system. I don't see how anything was gained, other than the clutch cable no longer has to be adjusted every couple of years. Give me a cable anytime.

I have no idea what happened to the compression. Having the compression come up after adding oil is a sure sign of worn rings and or cylinder walls. Oil will not effect compression lost past leaking valves. Could be you didn't get it checked right to begin with.
 

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You were right with the air getting into the carbs. It only does that if the cap is on the gastank. Do you know if there is a vent that could be plugged or something?



I got the clutch working. I had to flush out the sytem completly and it took forever to bleed it! But everything else is working fine now! I just need to figure out that air issue and it should be good to go!



Thanks for all the help!
 

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Carb cleaner and compressed air for the gas cap. It has a breather hole that tends to get clogged.
 
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