Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
168 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
imported post

Took the GW out for my first ride....norticed that when at 55-75 mph...if I release the throttly squeeze the clutch bikes shutters...if I release the throttle gradually then there is no shutter...is this normal for the GW?
 

·
Senior Guru
Joined
·
3,873 Posts
imported post

No its not normal you may need to look at the sub air filter that supplies the air solinoid valves under the right front coverit oftendoes notget changed as most tec guys dont know about it it has been knowen to disintergrate over time and get sucked into the carbs

 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
740 Posts
imported post

Mine did something(vibrated) like that when i let off the throttle and it was the u-joint. The old one didn't seem bad, but it quit doing that after i replaced it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,795 Posts
imported post

FNGGW2012 wrote:
Took the GW out for my first ride....norticed that when at 55-75 mph...if I release the throttly squeeze the clutch bikes shutters...if I release the throttle gradually then there is no shutter...is this normal for the GW?
> I has similar problem a few months ago (minus the clutch involvement)... Turned out to be a Stuck Slide in the carb, which was easily fixed by simply applying some spray lube to the slide while working it back and forth.
 

·
Older and Wiser
Joined
·
1,734 Posts
imported post

I've had the same problem. Spraying the slides gets me a few months before it happens again.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
953 Posts
imported post

FNGGW2012 wrote:
Took the GW out for my first ride....norticed that when at 55-75 mph...if I release the throttly squeeze the clutch bikes shutters...
Did you mean shudders? That could well be the U joint.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,706 Posts
imported post

If you mean shudder just as your throttle goes through that area where the motor was pulling and then motor is braking .... like in a coast condition and you feel it a bit in your feet?

Worn U joints will do that. If under power or strong engine braking, the joint tries to center itself. Under coast, they'll off center and sling a shaft like a jump rope.

If it's been there a long time, possibly a manufaturing defect. Below is my experience with our 97 GL1500 Trike.

:)



This was back in very early 2010, we were headed out one day for a group ride and it was one of the few where we got on the Interstate and as we had a good ways to go, we kicked it up to 65 - 70. It's not often that I cruise this trike at speeds above 65 as it loves the gas at 3000+ and I get enough of the traffic while working the Interstate on the job so usually when off duty, Itend toavoid Interstates.

I noticed a vibration through the pegs that day at those speedsthat I didn't recall there before, it went away with power or coast ....but as I rolled back and forth on the throttle it was worst when there was no load on the joint at all like when the throttle was just enough to match rpm to speed. When I speeded up more, it was noticeably worse ... but not bad, just enough to be noticed.


I suspected a U-joint as experience with bad U-joints before in cars and trucks and police carslet me know thatthey'll do that as power or load tends to center them and they flop when unloaded sometimes thus swinging the driveshaft like a jump roap.

I left the ride and went home at 50 -55 or less on theold road, it was not bad now, and thenI pulled the shaft whenat home. Rear car size U-joint was tight, as expected it being bigger and getting regular greasings.

Front Honda U-joint which was original to this Wing seemed "maybe OK" .... "maybe a little tooeasy" to flop around, but no excesiveslack in joint like what one would expect. But then, it's so small and any slop so close to the center. I thought maybe the splines were worn but could see no wear on either motor output shaft splines or drive shaft splines even with magnifying glass.

I ordered a Valk U-joint (the Valk U-joint uses the exact same cross as the old standard GL1500 U-joint, the change is in the two yokes) asit's the one Honda ships for all 1500s now. It came in a few days later and I slipped the shaft back out and put the new front U-joint in with plenty of grease on the splines making sure that the front and rear joints were in proper phaze.
Took it for a ride, .... :sadguy:....
it was as bad if not worse! :thumbsdown:Damn it!


Well, a few nightslater I was going over the trike for a couple rides coming up, I wasn't sleepy, and I had her jacked up putting grease in the rear joint and adjusting the rear drum brakes and I decided to take another look at that Honda Valk U-joint.

Well, I pulled the shaft and joint, wiped the joint clean of excess grease, and checked the fit on the splines, no appreciable slack.

Then as I rotated the joint looking and wondering why the hell I have this persistant vibration, I noticed something. It looked like the joint cross wasn't centered just right in the front yoke, the rear yoke looked like it was a hair out to one side. The surfaces of the yokes at widest point is machined, so I got the idea to measure the depth at each of the 4 bearing cups from this surface. The cups in the rear half of the joint were very nearly the same, maybe a hair difference, but certainly within a few thousadths of being the same.

The cups in the front yoke, the yoke half that slips up on the motor output shaft, ...
... weren't close. 65 thousandths difference between the two. The cross was not centered in the yoke! Manufacturer's defect. These cups are pressed in and staked. The staking points on the side where the bearing cup was pressed deepest didn't go all the way to the cup, so I figuured I didn't need to cut them out ... there was room to move it.

Well, I looked thoiuigh sockets and found one that fit inside the yoke and was against the stake points withouit being on top[ of them, this socket was a 12mm HD for use with air wreches I think. Inserted in behind the bearing cup, it would contact the cup at the outer edge without flatening the center hump flattening it, and it would go inside the stake point circle. Using this socket and a hammer and measuring after every whack, I finally drove that cross back to center point between the yokes, I even centered up the two cups on the rear half of the yoke as they were justa veryfew thousandths out. When done, the cross was centered as near perfectly between the yokes as was possible to measure with my tools and that's damn close. I had moved the joint 30+ thousandths in the one yoke back to center.

These cups are tight in the bores, the stake points were just for safe measure I guess.

Anyway, put it back together with more good grease in the splines and in phaze and we took her for a ride. Took it out for icecreame and hit a section if interstate between two exits out west where there's no traffic and run it up faster than I will say .... and the vibration is gone! :thumbsup:Finally! :applause:

 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
1,698 Posts
imported post

Hey "Crystalpistol"
Nice story about centering the yoke ,- it is easier with a hydraulik press ! (the compagny i am working for manufacture those , i can find you a nice one for around 3000$).LOL
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,706 Posts
imported post

SMEDEN(=the blacksmith) wrote:
Hey "Crystalpistol"
Nice story about centering the yoke ,- it is easier with a hydraulik press ! (the compagny i am working for manufacture those , i can find you a nice one for around 3000$).LOL
I agree :thumbsup:.... and I'ld jump on the offer but I have no where to put it .... :ROFL:
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top