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I just need some confirmation from the panel of experts who regularly post here.

My alternator is producing 0 volts and there is continuity between the the out put and alternator body, am I correct in assuming that the thing is dead, that the windings have gone.

The brushes although worn are within specifications. I just need to put my mind at rest before I shell out the hard earned cash for a new one.

Cheers

:(
 

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CastleWing wrote:
I just need some confirmation from the panel of experts who regularly post here.

My alternator is producing 0 volts and there is continuity between the the out put and alternator body, am I correct in assuming that the thing is dead, that the windings have gone.

The brushes although worn are within specifications. I just need to put my mind at rest before I shell out the hard earned cash for a new one.

Cheers

:(
I am no expert by any stretch of the imagination but if your alternator is not generating any voltage I would say it is bad.

Could be broken windings, bad rotor, bad regulator or rectifier or such. Sounds like you have already eliminated the brushes.

The white (output) wire from the alternator goes through the 55-amp main fuse and connects with the positive battery cable at the starter relay switch A. Could possibly be a connection issue somewhere along the way but it is more than likely the alternator.
 

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If yours is dead, I have a good rebuilt one I could post over. You can reimburse the postage costs when you fit it, postage shouldn't be too much from here to the UK.
 

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Thanks for the offer Steve, but I have already made the decision and ordered a new one from David Silvers, at least I wont have to worry about it going again for a while.

Many Thanks

John
 

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CastleWing wrote:
My alternator is producing 0 volts and there is continuity between the the out put and alternator body, am I correct in assuming that the thing is dead, that the windings have gone.
using a VOM, in ohms condition.

Place one lead on the alternator frame, the other lead on the output post.
If you measure continuity (in the order of a few ohms), then flip the leads over.

If the opposite leads do NOT show continuity, then the alternator is NOT shorted out.

There is a diode stack in the output of the alternator (a 3 phase generator). If all of the diode pairs are good, it will measure continuity in one direction, but not the other.

However, if ONE of the diodes in the stack is shorted, then you will see continuity in BOTH directions. The actual readings will probably be different, but that is not a good thing at best.

IF you measure a very low ohm reading from the output post to frame ground, then something shorted to ground inside the alternator frame.

I would take the alternator to a rebuilder and have it fixed. Cheaper than getting a brand new unit, and should be just as serviceable.

JMO
 
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