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'92 GL1500A
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited by Moderator)
The following text explains some of my activities for GL1500 muffler repair or replacement. I cannot find when Honda stopped supplying replacement muffler parts. All OEM 1500 mufflers are rusting away and I eventually they will all develop holes. I cannot find an OEM equivalent muffler supplier. I am also searching for a cut away picture or diagram of an undamaged GL1500 muffler. My current muffler sketch needs a few details to meet OEM. However the details will probably not cause the muffler to sound loud. I appreciate comments and questions to improve accuracy of this effort.

The exhaust mufflers on the GL1500s have been identified as a consumable and they rust from the inside to the outside in a relative short time.

I removed the ones on my 92 about 2012 when I found a reasonable deal on a new OEM set. I kept the old rusted pipes but the rust was all internal.

The baffles, pipes and most of the inside surface were converted into flakes and piles of rust but the outside chrome was intact, albeit paper thin.

Recently I resurrected the old pipes hoping to make a repair so I could use them with custom extension tips. I didn't want to modify my OEM pipes and they show little sign of rust since I haven't ridden much in the last 10 years.

The Wing is kept in a heated and cooled garage. I considered getting a fresh set of pipes but they are just about gone since Honda no longer makes the ~$699.00 part.

I stumbled onto a Japanese web sight that advertised new, appearing to look like OEM pipes for $2500. a set plus shipping. Next I studied my old pipes and another spare that was for the left side.

That spare was from an accident and I could fish a light into the void and see the arrangement of parts. I've searched the web for a few days but I cannot find a cut away or diagram of the inside parts.

The usual current suggestion for replacement is to buy a used set from EBAY but tossing $250 - $400 at used parts that are already rusted seems like a bad idea.

How about getting a new set of pipes that will essentially be a clone of OEM, that means no special fit ups or interference, made from 304 Stainless Steel and cost around $100.00.

This is possible if you can use a Mig welder, or tig. Otherwise, if you can't find a friend with the tools then you may need to get a welder to assemble the parts.

Close scrutiny of the pipes identifies the piece can be assembled from 4” od, 2” od and 1 1/8” id 304 stainless.

The 4” and 2” should be highly polished and you'll need some pieces of flat ss for the baffles and ends.

The price for these materials is surprisingly low. Summit racing had the 4” od x 4ft polished ss for ~ $60 delivered.

The remaining pieces are also cheap on Ebay for example. Incidentally while looking on Ebay I found a guy in Poland , see Kalinski, is already doing this but the cost is nearly $920.00 and I asked him what was the arrangement of internal baffles, piping and perforations. His reply stated no internal structure is installed.

The design for DIY OEM is straight forward and you already have a Wing to precisely match the hanger and parts and angle to the collector for a perfect fit.

This should work for the later Wings with the big exhaust tip however I caution that that tip may not have internal piping like the earlier down turn small tip.

Welding SS is a joy if you're used to rusty carbon steel.

When you receive your polished SS tubes, the first job is cover the shiny surface with two layers of 2” wide masking tape. Then begin to mark the tape to identify the cut locations.

The clearance indents on the inboard side of the muffle appear difficult but simple straight lines will guide you to making 2 rectangular cuts and then simply invert the pieces to make a space.

The inlet , outlet and internal details must be installed prior to welding the inverted rectangles.

The inlet and outlet caps of muffler can be flat.
The inlet hides behind a heat shield so you can't see it anyway.

The outlet is visible so consider making a cone. The layout for the cone is an easy look up on Google.

The baffles serve a purpose for supporting the tubing and creating space for shock waves. So fire up your Mig and “git er done”.

Good luck, see the sketch.
 

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Administrator
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You should consider going into business making those. Could be a tidy profit in it while still at a reasonable price.
 

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Piaggio MP3, was 02 GL1800
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Fantastic write up,
I edited your post to make it easier for folks to print out and follow along with what you wrote.
 

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Mufflers for 1999 and 2000 models are still available from Partzilla (and many other places i THINK ) , and they are an direct fit . IF you dont have the Tailpieces for this years i think those could be found used ?
Muffler , R 18310-MAM-A80 = $ 277,32
Muffler , L 18410-MAM-A80 = $ 277,32
 

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'92 GL1500A
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15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You should consider going into business making those. Could be a tidy profit in it while still at a reasonable price.
Eventually I'm going to make a set. But first I need to see a cut away or diagram of a pipe with little or no rust. Hopefully one of you folks has a nearly new, insides, muffler that has outside damage that makes it not usable. Another thought, maybe the Honda folks can get the drawings for the muffler, especially since they are out of production?

I retired 15 years ago so there is no need for or interest in a business for me. I simply reject the notion that a consumable part was built to fail, rust away, and there is no "quiet" OEM equivalent replacement at a reasonable cost. A 1992 Wing in excellent condition might sell for $3000. More than likely that Wing is in perfect condition but the pipes are totally gone even if the outside appears intact. Therefore a new set of mufflers should not be more than say $300.00 to be reasonable to most folks. This is intended for a hobby Wing lover. Many of us tinker and make parts that are like OEM or sometimes better. This is the better version and makes the old wing correct.
 

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'92 GL1500A
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Fantastic write up,
I edited your post to make it easier for folks to print out and follow along with what you wrote.
Thanks for the kind words. The folks that might consider making these will probably have more talent and experience than I have. But I believe we can all be persistent and do it ourselves. There is a person looking at this idea that is great at making patterns but does not have a welder. That person can make all the parts with hand tools and find a local welder to do the assembly and have a Stainless Steel set.
 

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'92 GL1500A
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Mufflers for 1999 and 2000 models are still available from Partzilla (and many other places i THINK ) , and they are an direct fit . IF you dont have the Tailpieces for this years i think those could be found used ?
Muffler , R 18310-MAM-A80 = $ 277,32
Muffler , L 18410-MAM-A80 = $ 277,32
That is true and is certainly an option. These will probably fit up to the earlier GL1500 and you would need to have to make or buy a tailpiece. Keep in mind that they are carbon steel coated with chrome and therefore are a consumable part. If I were forced to replace my mufflers for about $770.00 ie with extra parts, tax and shipping. I would try real hard to arrange for Stainless Steel that was as quiet as OEM.
 

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Eventually I'm going to make a set. But first I need to see a cut away or diagram of a pipe with little or no rust. Hopefully one of you folks has a nearly new, insides, muffler that has outside damage that makes it not usable. Another thought, maybe the Honda folks can get the drawings for the muffler, especially since they are out of production?

I retired 15 years ago so there is no need for or interest in a business for me. I simply reject the notion that a consumable part was built to fail, rust away, and there is no "quiet" OEM equivalent replacement at a reasonable cost. A 1992 Wing in excellent condition might sell for $3000. More than likely that Wing is in perfect condition but the pipes are totally gone even if the outside appears intact. Therefore a new set of mufflers should not be more than say $300.00 to be reasonable to most folks. This is intended for a hobby Wing lover. Many of us tinker and make parts that are like OEM or sometimes better. This is the better version and makes the old wing correct.
That's a laugh that Honda might release the drawings, maybe for a small fortune. Anyway, what car do you know of that the exhaust system will last that long ESPECIALLY if it is driven very little? If that 92 wing had 350,000 miles on it the mufflers would probably be fine.
 

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1998 GL1500SE
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I fitted a pair of titanium race cans years ago and had a pipe guy fabricate link pipes (the middle box was shot).
The bike was just as quiet as normal! We were both astounded. I lost too much mid-range torque so they got put in the shed.
 

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'92 GL1500A
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
That's a laugh that Honda might release the drawings, maybe for a small fortune. Anyway, what car do you know of that the exhaust system will last that long ESPECIALLY if it is driven very little? If that 92 wing had 350,000 miles on it the mufflers would probably be fine.
You are correct sir. The "IF" is important because when I took the rusty mufflers off of my Wing the mileage was nearer to 60,000. The drawings are an academic issue and sorta public information. Having the drawings would save the trouble of cutting open a good on the inside set and I have a remote eye ball look at the inside of an intact muffler. The measurements I can make will be a guess and I'm ok with that for prototype parts making and assembly.

I just had a meeting with another retired guy who is an ace mechanic, welder and Wing owner for about 30 years. We studied my rust pipes with an eye to making new ones. A significant idea was discussed that may have value for folks. The bottom of the pipes near the collector have a hole supposedly for draining condensation. That hole only functions that way when the Wing is on the center stand. When the Wing is on the side stand we concluded the condensate collects in the rear of the pipe where the rusting occurs first and most damaging. So drilling a 1/8" hole in the rear of the muffler may significantly slow down the rusting. This can be easily done with the Wing on the center stand, so be sure to drill the hole where the water will accumulate when the bike is on the side stand, ie left side of the welded seam and about 1/4" forward of the rear baffle plate at the base of the exhaust cone.
 

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This is what happens when folks insist on starting the Gold Wing up for "awhile" in the winter without warming bike up properly and think they are doing bike good. If you are going to start it, get it fully warmed up with a nice long ride. My `98 S.E. had 232K miles on it when I bought my current 1800, with no rusted mufflers.
gumbyredd
 

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'92 GL1500A
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
This is what happens when folks insist on starting the Gold Wing up for "awhile" in the winter without warming bike up properly and think they are doing bike good. If you are going to start it, get it fully warmed up with a nice long ride. My `98 S.E. had 232K miles on it when I bought my current 1800, with no rusted mufflers.
gumbyredd
Mr. Gum, * the five star award applies for you. I kept my Wing indoors in a climate controlled area. Over the years I frequently started it to move it many times during the winter months and only ran it for say less than 10 minutes. This was always followed by parking on the side stand and I now believe this is most damaging to the right side muffler. The condensate would collect in the pipe and settle in the rear. Had I put it on the center stand the condensate would trickle out the front drain hole. So old for me to get so dumbo_O.
 
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