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I am changing my tires on my 94 GL1500. I seem to remember reading somewhere on this forum about pivioting up the rear saddle bags and trunk as a whole unit instead of removing them. Does anyone else remember seeing this ?
 

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Oh - THAT guy...
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I think if you search something like 'saddlebag lift tire change' you should locate a thread that was here not too many weeks/months ago about it. I have never tried it, but might next time since I re-installed my hitch this year.
 

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If you have access to a hoist in a building/tree. Take the seat off and using soft ties or cable. Hoist it us using the frame rails. You will need the height of the rear wheel off the ground to do it this way. Just make sure your support can handle 1,000 lbs to be safe.
 

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that is how i removed my rear wheel and it works great
 

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If you have access to a hoist in a building/tree. Take the seat off and using soft ties or cable. Hoist it us using the frame rails. You will need the height of the rear wheel off the ground to do it this way. Just make sure your support can handle 1,000 lbs to be safe.
do you stilll need to remove left saddle bag to get to brakes and bolts ?
 

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Wild Rhino - Canadian
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the factory manual talks about undoing 4 bolts and pulling the bags and trunk off as one piece. Two man job.
I just pull off the bags and take it all apart, I may try the flip up next time.
 

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I just replaced my rear and did what the factory service manual stated if you have a helper. I removed the entire truck and saddlebag assembly as one piece. It really was pretty easy.

I can also see how the lift up method would work as well. To remove the entire rear assembly you just have to loosen two bolts that you access through a hole in each saddle bag, then you remove two bolts under the seat. You also have to disconnect the exhaust from the under side of the saddlebags. Unplug all of the connectors connecting to the bike and remove.

To do the swing-up method, you would just need to disconnect the exhause on the bottom and loosen the two bolts in the saddlebag holes and loosen the two bolts under the seat. Then those two bolds under the seat would become the pivot points to lift the entire rear section up.
 

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If you're gonna do the flip up you have to loosen the front of the saddle bags to clear the frame and be careful of the joint in the fender under the seat.You can easily break the tab on the fender if you just tilt it without disconnecting it.I've done it this way a few times and I think it works well(others here have tried it and won't do it again),but a couple of extra hands when lifting and sitting back down are handy.
 

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I did it the old fashion way, removed both saddle bags, wasn't too much of a hassle, did the job in about 4 hours front and back, including installing speed bleeders and new fluid, front, back and clutch
 

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yes you can get to the rear brake
 

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do you stilll need to remove left saddle bag to get to brakes and bolts ?
Nope. Remove ALL air from rear shocks. I use a good universal 14mm socket to loosen the caliper bolt. You don't take it all the way out. Just far enough to move the bracket. Loosen the mufflers(they swing down out of the way).
I ALWAYS make sure the brake slide pin and caliper moves free while I have the wheel out. Have found so many of the caliper pins stuck, only one brake pad worn out. Lube the axle,splines and caliper bracket hole and reinstall.
Takes 2 people to make it easier to install the wheel. The other person holds the caliper bracket in place while the other installs wheel.
Have done it in less than 45min.
 

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Nope. Remove ALL air from rear shocks. I use a good universal 14mm socket to loosen the caliper bolt. You don't take it all the way out. Just far enough to move the bracket. Loosen the mufflers(they swing down out of the way).
I ALWAYS make sure the brake slide pin and caliper moves free while I have the wheel out. Have found so many of the caliper pins stuck, only one brake pad worn out. Lube the axle,splines and caliper bracket hole and reinstall.
Takes 2 people to make it easier to install the wheel. The other person holds the caliper bracket in place while the other installs wheel.
Have done it in less than 45min.
I guess you do all the work sitting on the floor or a low seat from Under once lifted ?
 

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I tried the pivot method ONCE. Managed to bust all kinds of stuff on the rear fender. Not worth the time savings in my opinion. I just remove the left saddle bag and twist the mufflers outward.
 

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I replaced the rear tire and lubed the final drive on my 92 just a few weeks ago. For me working alone, it was simpler to remove the side bags which took about 10-15 minutes and another 15 minutes to remove the tire. Please post how the job turns out
 

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How is everyone lifting the bike to get the tire out? I just did my rear tire and installed a hitch. I bought a bike lift from HF to lift the bike over the tire and clear the hitch. I don't know if my garage rafters will support 1,000 pounds hanging from a hoist. How are people doing this?

I have removed all the rear also and the lift was much easier to deal with. I didn't like the stability of the bike on the lift so next time I would like to try what others are doing with a hoist.
 

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Oh - THAT guy...
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The rear bag/frame assembly weighs no were near 1000 pounds- the entire bike does, but you are talking under 100lbs of weight rotating the stuff I would think.
In the pic you FULLY removed the rear. Do you do that just for a tire change? I just remove the side bags, turn down the muffs, remove the center rear plastic and go. Easy to do with bike on centerstand. Wheel rolls right out the back and that even with my taller Austone rear tire.
 

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Lots of repairs were being done when I removed the entire rear end. The most recent required bags to be removed and I installed the hitch. Now I can see the hitch being in the way for the next removal.

I was thinking about using a hoist to lift the rear of the bike in the air, not just the saddle bags being folded. I am new to all of this and getting better with every repair. So far the mufflers has been my worse to reassemble both times!!!! I have to get a second person to lift the rear end while I lift the muffler and get the bolt to align. What did I miss there. Seems like a huge fight to get that to assemble with ease.



The rear bag/frame assembly weighs no were near 1000 pounds- the entire bike does, but you are talking under 100lbs of weight rotating the stuff I would think.
In the pic you FULLY removed the rear. Do you do that just for a tire change? I just remove the side bags, turn down the muffs, remove the center rear plastic and go. Easy to do with bike on centerstand. Wheel rolls right out the back and that even with my taller Austone rear tire.
 

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To remove the rear wheel, you don't need to remove the mufflers, only loosen them and twist them out of the way. And you only need to remove the left saddle bag. The whole thing's easier with a lift but I've done it on the floor - before all my joints went south.
 
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