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Discussion Starter #1
ok, realizing that the 165 80 15 CT bead wont seat on MY 1200 GL. can a person put a 1500 wheel on 1200 GL (direct swap) and put the CT on the 1500 wheel and it FIT (between the swing arm)?.


175 60 16 CT on the 1500 wheel (3.5" wide. 1200 has 3" wide wheel). Right size tire that is similar in size to stock MC 1500 tire? 160 80 16 seems to be the stock MC tire size on 1500 GL, yes?


the final drives LOOK the same on both bikes, driveshaft splines, mount to swing arm LOOK the same. disc is different mounting on the wheel, but the OD of the disc is the same, yes? the calipers are the same (I know that).


CT being quite a bit cheaper than MC tires... especially for the 1500 ($200/each?). CT have HIGHER Weight rating than MC tires, nice rain grooves to channel water out from under the tread, more so that most MC tires and CT wud last a very long time. .


a 175 60 16 CT WILL FIT (without having to air the tire up to 100+ PSI to TRY to seat the bead) the 16" wheel, yes? $56 CT vs $200 MC tire might be worth the effort to swap the 15" MC wheel for the 16" 1500 wheel for the different tire, IF don't have to change out the swing arm to get the tire in there? input? thx
 

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I think you have to also use a 1500 final drive.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
think I have to use the 1500's final drive unit... or know? anything else? that final drive looks like the 1200's final drive... but looks like the bearings might be bigger on the drive side of the unit???? I thought it had double bearings on the drive side of the unit? saw where someone machined drive side of unit to accept 2 bearings side by side as plenty of material there to machine out and the drive side bearing is taking a LOT of the load... 78%. the other disc side of bearing, coaster bearing, 22% of load???


easy enough to pop the seals out of the bearings in the final drive unit with pick thing and fill it with quality wheel bearing grease. mine seemed ok, no movement in them... except round and round, of course.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The conversion utilizes the 1500 rear wheel, Punkin and disk, rear brake caliper (same as 1200), mounting bracket and wheel spacer (ground down on spacer between disc brake mount and swing arm). For clearance of the wider 1500 bracket, it must be ground down to fit the left rear shock bolt, which also must be ground down. Original 1200 tire is a 15 inch with the 1500 being 16 inch.. Tire must be deflated for the tight squeeze to get the wheel into place. 1500 wheel 3.5", 1200 wheel =3" ... thx for input.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
somewhere in the 1500 model year they went from 6 pin drive to a 5 pin drive on the rear wheel? yes? 6 pin drive on 88-90? and 5 pin drive from then on to 00? hummmmm???
 

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somewhere in the 1500 model year they went from 6 pin drive to a 5 pin drive on the rear wheel? yes? 6 pin drive on 88-90? and 5 pin drive from then on to 00? hummmmm???
Yes but as long as you use a matching wheel and final drive you should be fine. Details in the provided links.
 

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Mick Mack, You do "need" to use the GL1500 final drive. In doing so it will gear your GL1200 a little higher (a good thing).

The four (4) mounting studs on the GL1500 final drive are slightly larger than the mounting holes on the GL1200 swing arm. You will need to drill the holes (on the swing arm) slightly larger.

My close riding friend did this conversion on his GL1200 a few years ago. I was just talking about this with him this morning......!!

Also what you listed in post # 7.....!!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
got it. holes on swingarm need to be drilled out to 7/16" for larger studs on final drive (FD) the 88-89 GL's used 6 pin drives, 90 on had 5 pin drives. the drive splines shd be the same on either, but the 84-85 had a different hub on the drive flange than the 86-87 final drive spider/FD. disc bracket needs to be ground down to 1/2" as the FD is moved over to the L side ...??? where it looks like there is only the spacer IN the wheel, disc brake bracket, 1 flat washer, swingarm. just too much work for me, im too old to mess with all that , I wud like to ride the bike a few more times before I expire and not expire working on the thing. it is not that important.


doubt the machine will last more than 1 more season before it has some kind of catastrophic (Ignition pick ups) failure and just not worth the effort to take the WHOLE machine apart again to replace 2 things that shd have been put on ... most anywhere but where they put them, that are no longer available anyway. lessons learned again, buy a "cheap" bike n spend more on it than it is worth and not be able to trust it to WM 6 miles away. expensive lesson # xxx.


I wish I had money to buy NICE NEW THINGS that didn't have to work on more than get to use them. that wasn't fun many, many, many years ago when I was poor, in better health and couldn't afford decent things, it is not fun now that im older, in poor health and cant afford to have decent things that work
 

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“is not fun now that im older, in poor health and cant afford to have decent things that work.”

It beats the alternative
 

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doubt the machine will last more than 1 more season before it has some kind of catastrophic (Ignition pick ups) failure and just not worth the effort to take the WHOLE machine apart again to replace 2 things that shd have been put on ... most anywhere but where they put them, that are no longer available anyway.
The 84 pulse generators are less likely to fail than the later ones.
 

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I am doing this very conversion to my 84 1200. However I also installed the front forks, wheel/tire, brakes and fender from the 1500 too. So, my bike will have a 18in front and a 16in rear. I have the front finished and it fits great. I still have the rear to do.

I am doing this to a 1200 Aspencade that I have stripped naked. I wanted the better tire sizes so I could find good ADV type tires. I also wanted to get away from the Aspy air suspension and the 1500 donor does not use air in the front. For the rear I am using 2 no-air 1500 shocks.

BTW the 1200 looks good with a 1500 front end on it.
 

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Mick Mack, You do "need" to use the GL1500 final drive. In doing so it will gear your GL1200 a little higher (a good thing).

Just thought I would point out that this is not true. The GL1200 and the GL1500 have the same final ratio. The ratios in the trans may be very different, the final drive is the same. (2.833 )
 

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Just thought I would point out that this is not true. The GL1200 and the GL1500 have the same final ratio. The ratios in the trans may be very different, the final drive is the same. (2.833 )
Have you ever made the change.....??

Tell that to my friend who made the change on his 1986 GL1200......!!
 

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Actually, 1200 and 1500 have same final drive RATIO ... but they are not identicle parts, but since the 1500 rear wheel and 160/80-16 tire is taller than the 1200's 150/90-15, you'll see a slight RPM drop at speed as engine drives rear wheel, speedo registers off front wheel. You can use a 150/80-16 tire on the 1500's wheel bringing overall "MPH<->RPM ratio" back closer to OEM.

The 1500 rear disc is larger (315mm) hence the need to use 1500 caliper bracket which gets narrowed some when the shock lower bolt gets shortened on end. This will result in slightly more rear brake due to increased "leverage" of larger disc and greater swept area. Same caliper.

The 1500 wheel has more meat in hub area supporting it's OEM double row drive side bearing.

There are a number of threads already listed that detail the swap, but from another thread, here are pics of a GL1200 with 1500 final drive and with General Altimax 195-55-R16 CT (car tire) …
 

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