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So now that I have all, I hope, all the main harness issues sorted out I moved on to the coils..testing..first stab at it ..checking resistance 1 to 2 and 3 to 4..nada NO continuity..:?:?:?..So i started pulling things apart easy stuff first ..took cap assembly off, cut the wire ends off 1/4"..found I have two different kinds of caps.

XDIOF no resisitor no spring just a screw in cup that has a hole completely through the center resistance 4.5

AND XDO5F spring, resisitor and solid screw in cup showing .8 +/-.with resistor in place and 0 w/o..one was missing the resisitor and the spring had been stretched to make contact

At first I had no continuity on a couple of them but taking the cups out and cleaning/scraping the inside a bit with a small screw driver fixed that..so they can be cleaned up and they do get corrision up in there that can stop the circuit at least for testing with a meter..anyway..they can be "fixed"/cleaned.

So to questions:
which is stock
does it matter not having a resistor if I have no radio to worry about...IE
is having 0 resistance in the cap assembly bad for anything(I could pull the resistor I have a stretch the spring and have two with 0 resistance in the plug end or I could dig up a resistor from someplace and go back to "stock" for the plug w/o one???
does it matter that the plug ends have difference resistance..is it a big deal or just not right??


I also have bigger problems. In trying to check resistance 1/2 and 3/4 with the plug ends off and "new" wire ends(remember I cut them all to get fresh ends) I get no continuity. I am going to fool with the ends some more to make sure they are clean, etc. but I have a sinking feeling I will be looking for a new coil setup soon!! :?

So can I use 1100 coils and if so does the wiring require any chances or can I just install them(1100's) as is???

Anyone have any 1000's coils they want to get rid of????;);) Or should I try and get some 1100's I heard somewhere there are better?? stronger something????

Aaaaaaand this bike is still kicking my butt but I am hanging in there.
 

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RB wrote:
I also have bigger problems. In trying to check resistance 1/3 and 2/4 with the plug ends off and "new" wire ends(remember I cut them all to get fresh ends) I get no continuity. I am going to fool with the ends some more to make sure they are clean,
Hey RB, I don't mind asking the ignorant questions.. :)
So were you really testing resistance between 1&2 / 3&4 right? I am thinking thats how my coils are set up.?
 

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OOps right at the top wrong at the bottom...1/2 and 3/4 I am slow but that slow...
 

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So curious, do you have the ballast resistor in place?
 

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YEP
 

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If this is the 1000, the easy answer is replace the wires & boots and give up with the resistors etc in the old plugs. That is unless your trying to make it show room. If the coils check out OK, just cut them about 4 inches from coils & use NGK splicers. I did this on my bike & made a world of difference in quality & consistency of spark.

Seeing as you cut the plug wires you should be able to just use an ohm meter between the twowires to each coiland get a resistance reading around 20000 or so. If so then they are most likely fine.

One of the easiest ways I've found to sort out the good from the bad is by using a timing light. Hook it up too each wire in turn & the ones that don't spark consistently with the engine running are bad.
 

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Well I cut back the wires some more so I have about 1/4" of actual wire sticking out and no joy..no readings..well every once in awhile I get a flash of a reading from one of the coils but I guess they are dead. I did get all four caps working all be it with different resistance readings as posted above two get 4.45 and two get 8.25 now..so they will become spares. I guess the coils are toast, I'll save the wires cut off at the coil.

I am working on fitting some 1100 coils that I had. I added the ballast from the 1000 coils to the 1100 coils, should I have done that?? and will cut and splice the primary connector wires so I can use the plugs coming off the bike's harness, at least that's my plan..I'll wait for input from the board before I cut anything.

Any tips or warnings about putting 1100 coils on a 1000?
 

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Your comment " a flash of a reading " indicates to me that the coils are most likely OK it just that your are not making proper contact with both wires & the test meter.

If your running the points ignition then you need the ballast resistor. The 1100's had electronic ignition and didn't need the ballast. Unless you want to go showroom I would just totally replace your plug wires. With the 1100 coils this is much easier. Makes for much better spark.

Many have gone the 1100 coil route.
 

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I still have points on the 100 so ballast it is..as to the flash reading..I got never got anything on one and the other the flashes once in a while..note I have removed a 1/4" of the insulation on all four wires, I actually have the wire core sticking out, so I know I have have a good connection at the meter's probes..I figure maybe I have an intermittent connection inside the coil on the one I am getting "flash" readings..I tired wiggling it around but didn't find a spot that gave me a consistence reading that way either.

At this point I am resigned to trashing the 1000 coils.

I was able to get the old coils out w/o removing the false tank..but getting the "new" 1100 coils back in I don't think I can do it with the tank in place?? Any tricks to getting it off or at least out of the way enough to remount the coils..

Also I noticed the mounting bracket for the 1100's has a shorter reach on the piece that sticks out for attaching it to the frame..is that going to a problem?

Also the 1100 coils are set a wider apart and the bracket is wider to accommodate the fatter coils..so I don't know if I can change out the brackets from the 1000 to put on the 1100's as the coils may be too fat to fit. I just hate to take it all apart only to find out I can't use the 1000 brackets.
 
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