Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
imported post

Any ideas why there woluld be juice all the time when iginition is on? I am trying to get this old gal back to some of her glory, but im not very handy with electric problems. I have cleaned all the conections, points are goodand have good grounds at the battery box. Before i cleaned everything i was getting spark on #1 &3, none on 2 & 4. Now it is steady on both contacts.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,136 Posts
imported post

I'm not understanding what the problem is. Can you be more specific? There should be power at the points all the time when the ignition is on.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
969 Posts
imported post

Yes once the ignition is on you should be able to flick the points and get a spark and that is normal.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
26,149 Posts
imported post

If you have power at the points even when closed they are either dirty and not making contact or gaped too wide and not actually closing or the breaker plate is not grounded.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
153 Posts
imported post

Problems like this can be troublesome to sort out - but be methodical



examine points closely... some I've seen have been grounded by poorly installed spade lug at the tiny screw



check condensors...there are two, either can fail



check plug caps... these things go south after 35 years...say, around NOW



pull the air filter can and look at the coil power line (in front of right side, left of the coolant fill point) and verify both coils are plugged in and getting battery voltage



I have found wires chewed by rodents causing unbelievable intermittant problems...you may have some oddball problems teasing your patience as well :)



Consider this a graduate course in vintage bikes my friend... when you fix it you have graduated
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
819 Posts
imported post

If you are trying to set the points staticallyusing a test light. You will need to place a piece of paper or cardboard between the contacts of the points that you are not setting.

Otherwise you will have power to both sets.


I actually disconnect the other set of points up at the connectors next to the battery box when setting the points.


Randakk has a good writeup andaddresses a few know issues on how to get a little more power out of yourGL1000.


Peter
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
imported post

Thanks for all the replys and comments. I will try to explain a little better today as i was very tired when i posted . 1st, I had a test light across 1&2 breaker points and they were turning my test light off and on when I rotated engine by hand . Couldnt get 3&4 to do anything at this point. checked wiring ,all seems to be hooked up right, cleaned ground connections. Now the test light stays on all the time and no off and on when rotating engine. I have checked all the wires qand connections at the coils and all are good. This is with the key on also. Also no spark at plugs now either.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
153 Posts
imported post

sure sounds like a case of dirty points - something even a visual exam will not reveal.



start at the basics

- pull points and test with ohm-meter... maybe even clean them first...if they read basically the same as when the leads on your test meter are shorted, we are going in the right direction. Triple check for flatness and contact alignment



- check lead that hooks to points... with power on it should read battery voltage +/- 0.2volts. you could try touching/removing this to ground, that is more or less what the points do... if spark plug is removed and grounded, it should spark...if no spark do the factory tests on the coils...they do go bad sometimes



- re-install points and test...no spark? try reversing the blue and yellow leads... if the original sparking plugs still spark and the other two are still dead, you likely have a wiring/coil problem



- did you test the condensor? they rarely go bad, but it happens. Remove them, attach a voltmeter to the leads and then touch ground/positiveto the body/lead and quickly remove. Watching the voltmeter, you will see the voltage drop to near zero in about 4-5 sec. Again, charge each condensor by touching the outer body to negative and one of the wires to the positive of the battery.... leave the voltmeter in contact with the leads, you will see the volt rise and stop at battery voltage. Disconnect the battery but maintain meter leads, you will quickly see the voltage drop....but not to zero immediately



These systems seem mysterious, but they really are quite simple. A little current through the coil creates a mag field, you stop the current and the field collapses.... this collapsing field generates a current in the secondary, of much higher voltage. It should discharge down a bit in order for the process to repeat with good current each time(See Randakk's discussion about overlapping point timing)



Keep telling yourself this is easy and when it is over you will realize most of the time it's true
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
imported post

tomswift99, your advice will be taken on the basics and will post progress. Thank you and everyone else.Sure am glad this is easy, not hard.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top