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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My uncle and I just went through and did new head gaskets on my 79' gl1000. Everything went smooth, i thought. After getting her all put back together, we started her up and went smooth for 5 mins or so. But then she started getting warm and she had some fog comin and of coarse I smelt the antifreeze. Hit her down and radiator was hardly warm. I'm fairly new to working on bikes so I rly am unsure of where to go from here. Could it be thermostat or water pump? Heads looked like they were in good working order and didn't seem to look warped. Could bad thermostat cause pressure and blow the coolant out? An I going to need a new gasket?

All I do know is that the side I did myself is working out great and no sign or any leak of any sort!:-X
 

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It aint rocket science
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Others will ask where did the gaskets come from you do not want to stray from OEM here. How were the surfaces cleaned, were they checked for flatness and/or cracks, what torque sequence was used.

5 minutes is not long enough to confirm it was just not residual coolant in pipes burning off without other things going on.
 

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Junior Grue
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Welcome to the forum.:claps:

The likely cause of your sweet smelling fog is coolant in the exhaust from your blown head gasket.
You'll have to get the exhaust good and hot to burn it off.

Edit: Oops I see DriverRider already said that.
 

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I'm unclear as to whether it just came to operating temperature, or if it overheated.
If it didn't overheat, and the fan cycles correctly, I'll have to agree to the edit of Ken Bergen as it relates to DriverRider.
 

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Vintage Rider
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Why were the head gaskets replaced in the first place? Many things can cause overheating, but not to many of them show up all at once. It is unlikely the thermostat failed while you were doing the head gaskets. What did the temperature gauge show? Did you check to see if coolant was being blown out of the radiator cap? Doesn't seem likely if the radiator was not hot. Did the fan come on? Was there any indication of an overheating engine, other than the anti freeze smell? I had a serious overheating problem on my 1200 some time ago. It would blow coolant out the radiator cap, and the temp gauge went all the way over shortly after start up. Checked everything, found nothing. I suspected an air pocket trapped in the engine somewhere. I drained and refilled it several times, with distilled water only. Same thing. I finally decided to fill it from the bottom up, through the drain, using a pressurized garden sprayer. I filled it until water came out the radiator neck. I have put over 500 miles on it since, and no overheating. I'm about to put coolant back in it, using the same method.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Bought gaskets from Honda dealer because I have heard this.
And as far as the 5 minutes, we did start her a few different times and thought that it could have been residual, but after messing with it for an hour running and letting her cool, because I do believe the thermostat is bad, there was no improve. Checked flatness as well which seemed to be good. Torqued in cross pattern.
But would a bad thermostat or water pump cause any problem like this?
 

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Vintage Rider
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Either could cause it. Just seems unlikely.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
She was red lining before and after gasket was put in. Was told by Hidatsa mechanic gasket was bad any noone every gave me any other ideas to run with, and when head came of, gasket was toast.
Never had it spaying out of cap though
 

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If you are overheating, and pushing antifreeze out the neck/cap area, you most likely have an air pocket.
Let it rest until cool, don't top the radiator off. Start it, and while it's running, add more coolant. You need to force the air out of it.
Once the cap is on, and the fan comes on, turn off the bike. Monitor the coolant level in the recovery bottle.. As the engine cools, coolant should be drawn back into the radiator.
Make sure that when you put the cap on, you push down and turn.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Never had any Antifreeze pushing out the cap:-/. Just seemed to be in exhaust, have a hard time believing that it was still residual after the 5-6 times starting it up and having it run until she started to overheat. But this is why I'm not a expert lol. I will have to try messing with the antifreeze as u said to see if I can't find air in it. But temp gauge said she was bout red lined and radiator barely felt warm, rim that's the part that's stumping me. Should just have the Honda mechanic check it over, but the wedding is too close to have the money to play with at this point in time.
How would I know If either the thermostat or water pump was messed up?
 

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It aint rocket science
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Never had any Antifreeze pushing out the cap:-/. Just seemed to be in exhaust, have a hard time believing that it was still residual after the 5-6 times starting it up and having it run until she started to overheat. But this is why I'm not a expert lol. I will have to try messing with the antifreeze as u said to see if I can't find air in it. But temp gauge said she was bout red lined and radiator barely felt warm, rim that's the part that's stumping me. Should just have the Honda mechanic check it over, but the wedding is too close to have the money to play with at this point in time.
How would I know If either the thermostat or water pump was messed up?
The post started with 5 min run time, it is now up to 1 hr run time.

This would be sufficient to get rid of any residual freeze, you still got a problem. The engine is 30 years old and unless the thermostat has been replaced previously could be original and you got your monies worth.

For a couple of dollars you replace related parts when doing related jobs.:)
 

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To check water pump pull the cover off and check the impeller for looseness. I'm talking about the cover attached to the lower radiator hose. 2 screws. You will need, absolutely, a new o-ring as well. As for the t-stat. just replace it. Stant 13868 or Napa 101. 8 bucks at Napa + o-ring. If the rad. is not getting hot it might be the t-stat. I would let it run for 15 - 30 minutes. Watch the Temp gauge!! It will take some time to burn out what is in the pipes. Is the temp gauge reading correct? If the fuel gauge is incorrect also it could be the 7 volt regulator is bad and the gauge is lying to you.
Radiator hoses are Napa 7733. You get them both from 1 hose.
 

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It aint rocket science
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The above would include spark plugs, valve seals, intake and exhaust gaskets, oil orifice o rings, timing belts if needed, new freeze, oil and filter and valve adjustment, thermostat, check of hose and cap condition and check of water pump for weeping, looseness or noise prior to tear down and maybe a fan switch along with checking why rad would be cold on a semi decent engine with no other obvious running problems.

Getting back to the original problem if the radiator does not get warm thermostat could be stuck closed or radiator plugged solid. Pump should be circulating water unless bottom half of engine is filled with sand or dirt. But you are still using water. Two different but related problems. Remove the upper and lower rad hoses and put the garden hose to the top to check flow out the bottom.

When returning a vehicle to a customer it better be right with no near term related breakdowns.:) Age and bitchyness factor of getting to components after the fact figures highly into whether to replace or not. It is always easier to tell the customer it is a simple part only fix and will get it back 15 min later instead of having to leave it again and can be picked up the next day after a large repair bill job.
 
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