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Hello Everyone, I was searching the web looking for info on the clutch oiling system on a GL1000 as my clutch has been dragging even after after all plates were replaced with new . anyway , my story. I ended up with 2 wings. a very nice fully dressed 79 1000 with current registration and a frozen motor and a just "ok" looking 75 1000 with $500 in back fees and a motor that seemed to be ok. I decided to put the 2 together and make one nice bike but have been having a few issues. first I was fighting with the carbs and bought 4 ebay carb kits and think I have that issue under control. next is the clutch dragging no matter what I do . I have adjusted it several times, took the clutch pack out and washed it up in solvent and re oiled and reinstalled with no change. installed a brand new set of friction plates and it worked Great for about 5 minutes and started dragging again. anyway, its a fairly serious problem as I cant find neutral with the engine running and the bike actually creeps and you have to hold it back at a stop light. its also no fun to pop the bike into gear from neutral as it hits pretty hard when it clacks into gear. well I thought about it for quite some time and decided it has to be an oil issue. either to much or not enough oil on the clutch. when I pulled my clutch cover off about 1 qt of oil runs out of the cover and the oil level in the clutch area is actually higher than the oil level in the engine! that's when I figured out that it was for sure an oil issue. wet clutches are not designed to be totally submerged in oil . that much oil will cause drag and almost make the clutch act like a torque converter. I decided I wanted to take a look inside and find out why the oil level was staying up so high but quickly realized that the entire rear cover of the engine needed to be removed in order to view the oil passage that allowed the oil from the clutch cover to drain back into the engine. so out came the motor again and off came the cover and much to my surprise there was a tiny shaft driven oil pump in the bottom of the rear case that was supposed to pick the oil up and pump it through a bulkhead and back into the main engine cavity. the bulk head was there to keep oil from being shoved to the rear of the engine under hard acceleration and flooding the clutch with oil. anyway I proceeded to remove the tiny oil pump and found it had no screen and just a tiny 1/8 inch by 1/4 inch inlet hole that was totally plugged up with clutch material and silicone and even some hair? I now knew I had found the issue and thoroughly cleaned the entire inside of the case and started reassembling. :p while tightening the 6 bolts that compress the clutch springs , I guess I didn't have the aluminum center piece that the 6 bolts go through centered properly because even though I was tightening all bolts down slowly and gradually and all together , this aluminum piece snapped. this really frustrated me as I was planning to slip the motor back in and verify that I had found and repaired my clutch grabbing issue. anyway , I figured , no big deal as I have another core motor sitting right here that I can rob this part from. after removing the clutch cover from engine number 2 I found the same piece broken in this motor:shock:. anyway I guess I'm stuck till I find this clutch piece. if anyone has one laying around please PM me and I will gladly buy it from you and pay to ship it . also I guess I could use a water pump rebuild kit and and a stator cover gasket , clutch cover gasket , and engine front cover gasket . so anyway, my bike is currently spread all over the floor of the garage . I would love to say I had found the answer to my issue but till I find some parts it will have to wait I guess. I hope that anyone else out there who might be having this same problem will take a look at this little pumps intake. it will probably fix your problem. mine will have a hole drilled in the case right below this intake with a small pipe plug installed so that I can clean it out in the future with a pair of tweezers "without" pulling the engine should the need ever arise again. ;)
 

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That's a good find. Actually that has been discovered before and forgotten, by me at least. Another member, Teacher, went through that a year or more ago.
 

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that is the scavenger pump. Its shaft also runs the main pump under the water pump cover. Ive broke those clutch things myself. One reason I found that breaks them is some of the aftermarket frictions dont fit the basket correctly and your clutch stack aint going all the way in especially the last plate.it looks like they are in but mine really wasnt.Now I file the tangs on the new frictions and check each one into the basket.Im not saying thats your problem but something to consider.If you havent already check your oil pickup screen . JB
 

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update. after removing my motor and pulling off the engine rear cover, I pulled the oil scavenge pump off to find large pieces of old clutch disk fiber material and silicone totally plugging the intake hole of my scavenge pump. after thoroughly cleaning the inside of the case and the inside and outside of the pump, I had an Idea. I decided to drill a hole in the bottom of the case right below the inlet of the oil scavenge pump which I then threaded to 1/8inch pipe. I then installed a pipe plug in the hole. now, if I ever have this problem again I can simply drain the oil, pull the plug and reach up through the hole with tweezers and pull out anything that might be blocking the inlet. this saves me the hassle of the whole "pulling the engine" thing.... :) my clutch now works perfectly and the bike shifts like butter. no more CLACK!!! when I put it into gear and it no longer creeps up my sloped driveway while the clutch lever is squeezed all the way . for the first time I can find neutral with the bike running!!
 

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and chances are you`ll never have to pull that plug. lol
those clutchs are prety robust.
 
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