[StarDiero75]

Howdy guys,

So I have a 77 Goldwing that was parked in 86 and I'm just rescuing it. It runs but I'm about to rebuild the carbs. The clutch would never disengage when I pull the handle. Even after adjustment so i replaced the disks. Everything went in nicely, i soaked all the disks. I've adjusted the TO bearing by tightening it all the way, then backing out a quarter turn. I have the cable at the housing backed entirely out, and the handle adjusted all the way out and it barely moves. So my next thing since at this point I'm sure tge cable is spent, i took a breaker bar and stretched the cable out as far as possible. Not the lever arm moves a lot. I go to put it in gear and it still wont disengage and it grinds. Even with the cable pulled as far as possible and the lever arm moves all the way, its still stuck. I don't know what to do. I followed the directions as of Randakks site. Can anyone please point me in a direction?

Thanks

 

[DaveO430]

Did you check the steel plates for warpage?

 

[StarDiero75]

Did you check the steel plates for warpage?

I got new plates too. Mind you these are used but everything was pretty straight

 

[redwing52]

Is it possible the travel of the cable is bottomed out before it pulled the lifter (TO bearing) far enough to release the clutch plates???? What about the cable is failing and stretching and not pulling the lifter enough??? What does the lever feel like???? I wonder of you just need a good cable????

 

[StarDiero75]

Is it possible the travel of the cable is bottomed out before it pulled the lifter (TO bearing) far enough to release the clutch plates???? What about the cable is failing and stretching and not pulling the lifter enough??? What does the lever feel like???? I wonder of you just need a good cable????

Well, the adjustment at the clutch housing is backed all the way out, and the adjustment at the handle is all the way out. And the lifter arm barely moves any. The handle feels pretty soft. What worries me is when i took the bar and bent the cable like back, which should have pulled the lifter arm all the way and it was still sticking. I'll replace the cable first, remake all my adjustments and post again.

 

[Dodge]

Slave cylinder perhaps?

 

[dingdong]

Hi Dodge. Cable actuated clutch. No Slave.

 

[redwing52]

Well, the adjustment at the clutch housing is backed all the way out, and the adjustment at the handle is all the way out. And the lifter arm barely moves any. The handle feels pretty soft. What worries me is when i took the bar and bent the cable like back, which should have pulled the lifter arm all the way and it was still sticking. I'll replace the cable first, remake all my adjustments and post again.

I think you weren't able to get the lifter to lift with the bar. I bet the new cable will fix the issue (I hope)

 

[StarDiero75]

I think you weren't able to get the lifter to lift with the bar. I bet the new cable will fix the issue (I hope)

I got a new one on the way. I'll post when I install it here in the next week. Thanks guys

 

[Dodge]

Slave cylinder perhaps?

 

[Dodge]

ooops on slave cylinder never owned a 77. Sorry.

 

[StarDiero75]

Howdy guys, so an update,

I replaced the cable and i swear i have to keep adjusting it. Come to find out, i think the twisty thing on the cover is busted. Ive adjusted it, multiple times and it almost seems like it gets looser. Another thing, i finally took a ratched and tightned in the screw a little past the touching point and pulled the lever and it was easy to turn. Acted like i pulled nothing. i bet money the screw thing on the cover is busted. Any way to fix it guys?

 

[JamesPal]

Sounds like you need to do the full clutch adjustment procedure. It requires the clutch cover to be removed. It is difficult but can be done with the engine in the frame. The adjustment procedure is linked below. The first time the clutch is used it can be very difficult to get it to disengage. You may need to get it running, hold the clutch in and push it into second gear. I would have the bike on the center stand and hold the rear brake.

Clutch Adjustment Procedure | Randakk's Blog

Before you begin, loosen the adjuster at the handlebar perch and screw the barrel all the way in.

www.randakksblog.com

 

[StarDiero75]

Sounds like you need to do the full clutch adjustment procedure. It requires the clutch cover to be removed. It is difficult but can be done with the engine in the frame. The adjustment procedure is linked below. The first time the clutch is used it can be very difficult to get it to disengage. You may need to get it running, hold the clutch in and push it into second gear. I would have the bike on the center stand and hold the rear brake.

Clutch Adjustment Procedure | Randakk's Blog

Before you begin, loosen the adjuster at the handlebar perch and screw the barrel all the way in.

www.randakksblog.com

Thats what I'm talking about man. Its like the actautor arm is broke. Its like i keep getting more and more adjustment out of it. I put a ratchet on the actuator screw, tightened it past where it hits the TO bearing, then pulled the handle and it was super loose like it didnt do anything. I think its busted. I ordered a new to me cover with the arm and all in it. I'll report back when i replace it.

 

[JamesPal]

I would be really surprised if there was something broken in in the clutch lifter mechanism. The clutch lever has a slotted hole that bolts to the end of clutch shaft. Have you checked to see if the lever is secure on the end of the clutch shaft? The clutch shaft must rotate against ball retainer and clutch lifter cam to push the pressure plate off the clutch pack.

Clutch Lever

Clutch Shaft

Ball Retainer

Clutch Lifter

 

[redwing52]

I would be really surprised if there was something broken in in the clutch lifter mechanism. The clutch lever has a slotted hole that bolts to the end of clutch shaft. Have you checked to see if the lever is secure on the end of the clutch shaft? The clutch shaft must rotate against ball retainer and clutch lifter cam to push the pressure plate off the clutch pack.

View attachment 322340
Clutch Lever

View attachment 322341
Clutch Shaft

View attachment 322343
Ball Retainer

View attachment 322345
Clutch Lifter

You don't think there is any way the pin is missing or sheared off the lifter where it is just spinning when the lever is pulled???????????? If all is well and you pull the clutch in and out I think you should be able to see the lever on the clutch shaft move in and out ever so slightly.

 

[JamesPal]

That pin goes into a hole in the clutch cover. I could possibly be missing. S didn'r say he had that part of the engine apart. He should take the clutch adjuster cover off and check the adjuster nut and bolt to see if the lever is properly connected. If it is he should proceed to remove the clutch cover and check the lifter mechanism.

My experience is limited. I've only worked on a couple of Hondas with this type lifter. The design is common to the mid to late 70s Hondas. Usually what happens is the adjuster and cable are too tight and the balls over rotate to the next set of pockets. It feels like the clutch just broke, but actually nothing happened.

When installing the clutch it is very common for the plates to stick even when they are pre-oiled. This can give you the feeling the clutch is not disengaging even when it is in the proper range of adjustment. Once the clutch is broken loose, it will get properly lubricated and then function as intended. To break it loose, adjust the clutch as shown on the Randakk page, start the bike on the centerstand and in a higher gear like second or third with the clutch lever pulled in and then apply the back brake. It only takes on set of disks to stick to make it stuck.

 

[StarDiero75]

Well guys, this is really embarrassing. The lever wasnt all the way on the actuator. It had a slotted hole for the lever arm and it wasn't all the way in. After running it today, it still didn't want to separate but after kicking it over and using the starter, with a breaker bar in the mag rims, it finally broke mostly free. If I idle it in 2nd or 3rd with the clutch handle in, the wheel will spin a little, but if it has any resistance it stops and the motor doesn't even slow down. It still wants to grind when I shift so I'm thinking something is still dragging. I'll have to wait till i get it nice and hot to really work it. Running the bike at 4k without mufflers at almost 10 at night doesn't go well with the neighbors haha.

Thanks for everyones input. If anyone needs a clutch cover, i got an extra one now I picked up cheap.

 

[redwing52]

Well guys, this is really embarrassing. The lever wasnt all the way on the actuator. It had a slotted hole for the lever arm and it wasn't all the way in. After running it today, it still didn't want to separate but after kicking it over and using the starter, with a breaker bar in the mag rims, it finally broke mostly free. If I idle it in 2nd or 3rd with the clutch handle in, the wheel will spin a little, but if it has any resistance it stops and the motor doesn't even slow down. It still wants to grind when I shift so I'm thinking something is still dragging. I'll have to wait till i get it nice and hot to really work it. Running the bike at 4k without mufflers at almost 10 at night doesn't go well with the neighbors haha.

Thanks for every ones input. If anyone needs a clutch cover, i got an extra one now I picked up cheap.

All normal given the circumstances. Take it for a ride and ot will be perfect by the time you get home.

 

[StarDiero75]

All normal given the circumstances. Take it for a ride and ot will be perfect by the time you get home.

I can't ride her just yet. Still needs tires, the carbs rebuilt, front for seals replaced, and rear brake bled (put the rubber cup in backwards when rebuilding the reservoir so gotta fix that). But I have it all. I'm excited. This is my first bike and this has been dead since 86 and its getting so close!