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:? Hi folks,

I have a 1978 GL1000 with about 29K miles on her. I bought her last fall. She's in pretty good shape after doing some minor repairs to get her roadworthy again. The clutch was giving me some problems though The main complaint was that it seemed to be grabby out at the end of the clutch lever release. I repeat,it's only grabby out at the end of the release, more like a ragged lurch. And it's worse as the bike warms up.

I adjusted the clutch as per a Clymer manual but still experienced the same symptoms. Then I seemed to over-adjust it because the clutch arm would over-cam. The first time this happened I thought I had broken something good and even trailered it home. Later I found I could have fixed it in about 5 minute by removing the clutch adjustment cover and pulling the clutch release arm back manually.

Anyway, I decided to try rebuilding the clutch. Once I got it apart though, I found all the friction plates and springs to be in perfect shape. All well within specs. So after I get it buttoned up, I expect to be right back to square one with grabby clutch. Can anyone give me any ideas? Is it possible my friction plates are contaminted? Maybe a good washing in kerosine will help plus the use of Mobil 1.
 

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Would it have been as simple as a faulty clutch cable? Thta´s the first thing I´d replace before tearing the clutch apart, specially with only 29k miles..
 

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manatee wrote:

I have a 1978 GL1000 with about 29K miles on her. I bought her last fall. She's in pretty good shape after doing some minor repairs to get her roadworthy again. The clutch was giving me some problems though The main complaint was that it seemed to be grabby out at the end of the clutch lever release. I repeat,it's only grabby out at the end of the release, more like a ragged lurch. And it's worse as the bike warms up.

I adjusted the clutch as per a Clymer manual but still experienced the same symptoms. Then I seemed to over-adjust it because the clutch arm would over-cam. The first time this happened I thought I had broken something good and even trailered it home. Later I found I could have fixed it in about 5 minute by removing the clutch adjustment cover and pulling the clutch release arm back manually.

Anyway, I decided to try rebuilding the clutch. Once I got it apart though, I found all the friction plates and springs to be in perfect shape. All well within specs. So after I get it buttoned up, I expect to be right back to square one with grabby clutch. Can anyone give me any ideas? Is it possible my friction plates are contaminted? Maybe a good washing in kerosine will help plus the use of Mobil 1.
manatee, I have to agree with GWNorman, a sticky or dragging clutch cable will make a motorcycle clutch very hard to modulate. Try lubricating the clutch cable & make sure the routing is correct.

As far a Mobil 1 oil?, you might not have to go that radical but you might try a different brand of engine oil.

It is possible your friction plates are contaminated but if so, it should get better with usage after a good oil change.

Twisty
 

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Twisty has some excellent advice going here.. You may need to change the engine oil two or three times to remove all the Mobile 1 oil... Also, on the second oil change, add a pint of MMO and change it within 50 or 100 miles along with a new oil filter.. Use a good grade of regular high detergent fossil oil and the weight the owners manual recommends.

I suspect the clutch plates are sticking from the Mobile 1 oil additives and not grabbing until the end of travel. It seems unlikely there is any clutch damage, so all that's left is the cable and motor oil.
 

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This came from Randakk's site thought you might like a look at it.

1000 clutch adjust-

  1. Remove the small access cover at the rear of the engine. I use a 10 mm socket on a ¼" racket. This is the semi-impossible part of the job. Now loosen the clutch actuator lock-nut and run the adjuster all the way in until you feel slight resistance (using a small screw-driver). Back the adjuster out ¾ turns and tighten the locknut. Replace the access cover and the worst is over!
  2. Rotate the lower cable adjustment barrel (counter-clockwise from above) until you have about 5/8" play at the end of the handlebar lever. Now tighten the lower lock-nut.
  3. Final free-play adjustment is made at the handlebar lever. Set this according to preference, but it should be in the neighborhood of ¼" to make sure you get full disengagement of the clutch. These should be at least SOME free-play or you run the risk of damage to the clutch.
Twisty

 

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Thanks all for your excellent advice. I should have mentioned that the first thing I did was put in a new clutch cable. I was using Rotella (not the synthetic) and have never used Mobil 1.

I was thinking of cleaning the exisitng friction plates up with some parts cleaner. The sanding them lightly. Then I'll either use the Rotella and some MMOor look around on the web to see what others are using for oil. I'm looking forward to actually doing some riding this year.

- Jack
 

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manatee wrote:
Thanks all for your excellent advice. I should have mentioned that the first thing I did was put in a new clutch cable. I was using Rotella (not the synthetic) and have never used Mobil 1.

I was thinking of cleaning the exisitng friction plates up with some parts cleaner. The sanding them lightly. Then I'll either use the Rotella and some MMOor look around on the web to see what others are using for oil. I'm looking forward to actually doing some riding this year.
Jack, that Rotella (assuming 15W40 is a great M/C oil & shouldn't cause any clutch problems. The Rotella T (15w40) has a great additive package & strong base stock (basically a good solid engine oil).

Twisty
 

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manatee, while you had the clutch apart did you check for clutch plate distortion? Quite often guys will simply measure clutch plate thickness but overlook the flatness of the individual friction plates and steels. Use a known flat surface to check the discs for distortion by sliding a feeler gauge under the disc at various locations or with the flat plate and disc at eye levellook for light shining through the raised portions of the discs if they are distorted.

I have also found that a very light sanding with 180 grit wet paper will help to deglaze a clutch. I have had to do the deglazing process on two occasions when when synthetic oil was added to the engine and the clutch slipped and chattered afterward. After the light sanding and returning to regular engine oil the clutches still operate properly years later.

Let us know what you find.

Vic
 

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I am having some clutch problems in my 1977 GL Goldwing. It is slipping pretty badly right now. Just how hard it is to adjust the clutch. I am somewhat mechanically inclined and have replaced engines/ transmissions/ brakes/ ect in cars but not on bikes. If I have to replace the clutch, how hard is it going to be to remove and replace the clutch? Does the engine have to be removed from the bike?

Thanks

Everrett Prostrollo
 

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Everett, if you have freeplay in your clutch cable and the clutch cable is not sticking or binding then it sounds like you may need to disassemble the clutch and inspect the disks, basket and springs to determine if they are within serviceable specs. This can be done without removing the engine, but you will need to remove the swingarm for access if you need to remove the clutch basket. Get yourself a manual and do some studying and I would also recommend starting a new thread with your question so that it will garner more responses from the experts here.

Vic
 
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