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Hello all.
I am rebuilding a GL1000 and got very close to finishing. fired up lovely, balanced carbs etc but had a problem with my handlebar switches both left and right.I noted that connections to the main harness were not the best and there were one or two broken wires in the switch harnesses themselves. So after replacing the dud wires and running connections to the main harness with screw type 'choc blocs' all switches ran fine except the horn. I deduced that the green earth from the main harness to the left switch must be faulty. I proved this by running a temporary wire from the right switch black wire to ignintion. Every thing worked. So I started to bolt the left switch back on the handle bar.

Here it gets worrying. After putting the switch assembly on the handlebar, I turned the ignition switch on, but the pilot bulbs looked dim seconds and later they were out and nothing worked. Checked the main fuse. BLOWN. Inspected the left switch, replaced the fuse, still nothing. Fuse is intact but the ol girl has flat lined. Battery 100% and no V's through the fuse holder.

Electrics are not my strong point and I just do not know where to start to look. Can anyone help!!!
 

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no power anyweher? then I would start on the other side of the main fuse.... power there? and work my way along. also.... is your battery good?
 

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There is a metal piece in the switch block that clamps the wires down. It has probably worn through a wire and is shorting out to the handlebar when you put the switch block on.
 

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Un do that handlebar switch from the bar, take a quick look and while it's hanging, try again.

Do what rcmatt007 sais because you must follow the path once you find power in order to see where it stops.
 

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Thanks gentlemen.

Will look at left switch wires again and the wire clamp, keep it off the bike and start fault finding from the battery. Will keep you posted

Regards



Kevi n
 

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Ok, this is where I stand. Disconnected the left switch wires and decided to replace the dog bone fuse holder with a mini spade fuse holder. The bike powered up. Investigated the the left switch wires by reattaching one by one. All good but the horn is still dead!! And Yes the clamp over the wires was the problem. Thanks. :cool:

But I went to fire her up but she did not Bite. She turns over, spark at all plugs and fuel a plenty as I replaced the mech fuel pump with elec one from Randakk.. She does turn over alot slower though and Yes I have charged the battery.

:?

Any ideas
 

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Clean and check all the connections to the starter.. relay(both post connections), battery, ground of starter, positive on starter(careful here don't spin the stud.

If they are all good.. is it cold?? thick oil with slow the starter down.

Check the battery while starting should be 10v's or better..if not bad battery..if showing 12bv+ when idle..
 

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Thanks. Will do.` perhaps me fitting the new fuse holder may have caused a prob at the relay.
 

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The new fuse holder should have had no effect on the starter cranking speed. Also check where the ground from the battery connects to the engine. For the horn, check for power to the horns themselves, it may be nothing more than the horns not working. If they are getting power try adjusting the screws on the horns while applying power and ground.
 

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OK all, things are getting better but still not there!!!

My initial failure must have drained the battery as it is now fully charged and holding power. Cleaned all terminals in the HT circuit and she appears rather more energetic than previous attempts. But my major prob is the horn.

Connect her to the battery and it roars, but put all the wires back in the circuit and nothing. NOW I MUST CONFESS, the switches that I have put on her are from a KZ and I have JUST noted that the original left switch assembly has a combination flash/horn but the KZ assembly has them seperate. With the switch assembly dangling I can get the horn to sound on depression by picking up a feed from the Ignition wiring but when placed on the handlebar the short occurs. therefore main fuse blows.

How can I get around this situation which I have created???? By the by, the origianl switches are unservicable due to wire core strippage and solder failures..
 

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It's a possibility The KZ horn switch works by grounding the horns while the GL switch switches power. Are there 1 or 2 wires going to the horn switch?
 

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one thing I have learned (as an original owner) is that a lot of connections can look good, but may be making a poor oonnection... in these "olde-wings" it never hurst to clean up any and all connectors...

also, for really good "how-to" advise, also try www.nakedgoldwings.com many of us are on both sites
 

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There are two wires to the KZ horm switch, one dark green and the other pale green. I have looked at the old switch and there are three wires, this includes the dark blue for High Beam.

The wiring from the KZ switch has the pale grren going to the same pale green on the horn, and the dark green going to the main harness with the dark green of the horn going to the same point. Dark green I assume is EARTH. In this senario the horn fails to work, with or without the switch assembly attached to the bars.

There is continuity in the horn switch circuit, and all wires are carrying V's well.

If I disconnect the dark green wire from the handle bar switch and pick up a feed from the black ignition switch wire the horn sounds on pressing the button with the switch assembly dangling. If I then clamp up the assembly to the bars - snap, crackle and then pop goes the fuse!!!!

There must be some grounding when the switch is clamped to the bars as you suggest, but my knowledge of electrickery ls not very good and I cannot think of a way out of this.!!!
 

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On my gl1000 the horn has constant power and the horn button on the handle bars makes the ground when pressed. My horn didn't work and i found a spider in the buttton when i took it apart. Now my horn works great. My bike is a 76, i don't know if the wiring changes in later years.
 

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Have sorted this horn Problem out. After much mucking about decided to replace the horn button with one from a piaggio scooter. Reason: Cheap on ebay and being plastic would not ground on handlebars. Looks good too.

Hurragh! it works!!!. Also, found out that these were Gl1100 Switches and that the horn wiring requires grounding through handlebar. EARLY GL1000 wiring has the horn switch in plastic therefore isolated.

Lesson learned.......do not mix and match wiring without proper knowledge.

My next job is to fit the audiovox cruise control with vacuum resevoir. I intend to fit this in the tool tray of the false tank.

Fingers crossed !!!!!!
 
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