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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
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I had this happen to me recently, when the engine is fully hot and when the fan kicks in the idle starts going down and it dies unless I give it some throttle or increase the idle speed at the screw.

First I thought that it might be a bad battery and the fan was pulling too much juice from the system but the battery read a 12.6V. I tested it with the engine off.

Before it get to the point where the fan starts it idles just fine. Sometimes when it's hot and I shut the engine off and try to start it again, the starter will not turn fully or it's having a hard time turning the engine but eventually it does turn.

What can be causing this?
 

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Bad electrical connections. Battery terminals and/or ground point on the engine among other things.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
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Battery terminals are clean and the ground connection is nice and clean.
 

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Then check all the connections on the starter relay, the main fuse and the harness ground on the frame, I think it's next to the rectifier on the 1000, not sure though.
 

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check the starter draw, and do a load test on the battery,
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
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I just inspected all the connections at the battery , the starter relay, and the main 30A fuse and it did look ok but I made sure that it's ok just in case.

I'm leaning towards the battery as Big John recommended to do a load test but it's getting late and the bike has the exhaust that can wake up the dead 3 counties over so I'm going to have to wait for some daylight to do the test. Will let you know what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
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Instead of doing the load test with my volt meter I took the battery to the parts store and had it tested there. It showed a good battery but that it needed a charge so after charging it up good I got it running till the fan kicked on and the idle speed never changed and it never dropped.

The starter still hesitates when hot but it does turn it over eventually. I have another start that is dead and I'll end up rebuilding that one.

Hope it stays as it is and thanks fellows!!!
 

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Hey Mr welcome. Have you checked your 3 yellow wires yet? lots of threads about them on here. The harness connector on the left side under false tank, with 6 wires in it.. Mine and most get really corroded id not maintained. Most solder the 3 yellow wires. Good luck with yours.
 

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1993 gl1500, 1976 gl1000
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MrZ; If the battery needed charging you need to find out why it wasn't being charged on the bike. And yes it is probably bad connections at the 3 yellow stator wires or a corroded ground connection where the cable ties into the engine mount on the left side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
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I guess the 3 yellow wires are the ones coming out of the alternator. I did replace the engine on this bike and it came with both connectors (male & female) because it was welded on there and someone had just cut the wires. I had to separate them and made sure that the connection is ok but now I'm thinking of getting rid of the connectors and soldering the wires.

I think that the battery needed a charge is because I was testing the engine during installation and never rode the bike. On the last two runs it did fine.
 

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You're on the right track. Better to solder the wires.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
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I did notice on the older connector that it was pulling some amps across those little snap on deals and since I'm not going to be pulling this engine in and out might as well joint the wires. I have a '83 Mercedes Diesel that I restored and every single wire inside the door panel switches was soldered instead of clipped on, I guess the Germans took their time and made it last.
 
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