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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,
I finally got my GL going! Turns out, after changing the belts, plugs, and doing a points adjustment, that the 1,2 points wire was hooked to the 3,4 coil wire, and vice versa. After fixing it, the bike started right up.
While running it, and revelling in the culmination of 6 weeks of rebuild, we noticed a knocking, or clatter. At first, with the choke all the way out, the clatter was only there with load (not when floating, or idling). However, as soon as I put the choke in, it became consistant.
My dad thinks that it's valve clatter, and I just need to do a valve adjustment. I got the covers off, and was all ready to do it, when I realized that my feeler gauges' smallest size is .006. So I'm waiting until tomorrow when I can get a smaller set.
Any ideas on something we might have missed? The carb rack that's on the bike has been running excellently on my other GL1000, so I don't think the problem lies with them. I did just replace the timing belts, so a bent valve wouldn't be impossible to imagine, although I'm pretty sure I had them spot on (first timing belt job).
 

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Go ahead and check the valve settings all around . That may not be it though . Since you moved your carb rack from another engine , my thoughts are you need to synchronize the carbs to this engine .
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Did my valve adjustments. Noise is still there. This carb rack, while tested and proven on my other bike, was in fact from this bike in the first place. I moved it to my other bike because that's the bike I'm going to sell, and I'm taking the best parts for myself :raspberry:(or in this case, the prettiest).
Not sure if that makes a difference other than, if syncing is next, I should probably do it with the rack that will eventually stay on this bike.

Another thing. I ran it until it got up to temperature. It has a very nice idle as it's warming up. However, once warm, it won't idle, and once it stalls, it won't start again! What the heck?!

I'm working on trying to upload some iPhone videos.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Before taking off my carbs today, I decided I should do a compression test. The engine was dead cold, so I didn't expect the numbers to be where they should be, I was just looking for any discrepancies (I'm beginning to fear the big bad bent valve). 3 of the cylinders tested at 110-120, the fourth tested to 60..
The next step is to dig into both carb racks. I'll be at least bench syncing both racks, and depending on motivation, may decide to do a full Randakk kit rebuild on the rack I'll be keeping.
In the meantime, can anyone give a solid description of what a bent valve might sound, or behave like?
The noise I'm getting responds with the engine revs. It's not all that loud, in fact when we first got the bike going I might not even have noticed it before my dad pointed it out (now it's the first thing I hear... damnit dad!).
I'm not going to make any assumptions before I get a sync'd rack in there, but it's tough to get a job like that off your mind.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
so after doing a bench sync, I decided it would be wise to do a float level check. when I got in there, I figured, what the hell, and cleaned all the jets and float pin assemblies. then I sez to myself, why not a full rebuild (randakk doesn't recommend doing this stuff without replacing all the gaskets and orings anyway)?
while looking into buying a master rebuild kit, I find that the carb rack that I had decided to keep, was in fact a 769A rack (pre emission controlled '78), while the other rack was the typical '77 764A.
now I'm doubting my decision. 1 it seems more difficult to find replacement stuff for the 769A's than any other rack. 2 it seems that most people agree that the best racks were 75's, followed by 76's, and 77's were the worst performers (run too lean causing hesitation at 2500-3500rpm). There seems to be a trend here, and if that trend continues from the 764A's to the 769A's, I'd rather stick with the older rack.
Anyone have any thoughts or relevant experience with this?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·

here's a link demonstrating the engine noise I hear on the right side. my guess would be that it's coming from the area of cylinder 3.

this is after a bench sync, and a pretty thorough carb cleaning; as well as changing the timing belts, and setting the points and valves.

I ordered a set of four vacuum gauges, they should get here tomorrow or friday.

As I said earlier, my cylinder three tested at a much lower compression than my other three cylinders (engine was cold when tested, so the specs aren't right on any of them, but I think it's still relevant).
 

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Generally a valve train noise would not come and go with a little throttle.

It sounds more like a popping back through an intake or exhaust or head and gasket issue. Use a length of heater hose 3/4-7/8" between you ear and around exhaust, intake and head-gasket area to determine where it is coming from. If careful without burning yourself use your hand to feel where the pop is coming from also. The hose is the best way though.
 

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Boy, it seems to me that the low compression should be addressed before you get into subtler things like carb sync.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Boy, it seems to me that the low compression should be addressed before you get into subtler things like carb sync.
From what I've read, the compression should be tested at running temp. Thus far, I've been to afraid to run it for that long (fearing a bent valve, or something that will ruin everything if run too much). So I haven't fully trusted the readings I've gotten so far.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
It sounds more like a popping back through an intake or exhaust or head and gasket issue.
This made me think back to when I installed the exhaust. The right side wouldn't tighten down like it should. I left it that way because I thought I had a seal, and when the bike started I immediately forgot about it.
After reading this I went out and started the bike up again for a moment, felt around, and there was a distinct air leak from the cylinder 3 exhaust. No where else. Shut it down, took off the pipes, and found this.
The wierd looking exhaust port is from cylinder 3. The other is cylinder 1.
Is there some kind of copper o-ring in there that could have been keeping me from getting the correct seal? Would an exhaust leak contribute to a bad compression reading? Could this be the source of the engine clatter?
 

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Toolcraft4100
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right on

Boy, it seems to me that the low compression should be addressed before you get into subtler things like carb sync.
I agree with the above. My understanding is that you should solve compression issues and eliminate timing and ignition issues before attempting to tune carbs.
Having said that, to have your GL1000 carbs clean, rebuilt, and properly adjusted is tremendous accomplishment!
Could be a little carbon build-up keeping one of your valves from closing causing the low compression.(?)

HoganJr
 

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Yup, that is the cylinder with low compression right? the one with the copper seal broken and was making the pop noise?

Can be seen when compared to the other picture the exhaust valve is a nice lite gray or white color, the valve in the problem cylinder is sooty black from carbon and the combustion is not correct likely from the low compression.

Back off the valve rocker adjustments for that cylinder to close valves and put compressed air into cylinder and check for leaking valves and rings. You will hear and feel air rushing past any weak points in cylinder through the intake, exhaust or crankcase.
 

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This made me think back to when I installed the exhaust. The right side wouldn't tighten down like it should. I left it that way because I thought I had a seal, and when the bike started I immediately forgot about it.
After reading this I went out and started the bike up again for a moment, felt around, and there was a distinct air leak from the cylinder 3 exhaust. No where else. Shut it down, took off the pipes, and found this.
The wierd looking exhaust port is from cylinder 3. The other is cylinder 1.
Is there some kind of copper o-ring in there that could have been keeping me from getting the correct seal? Would an exhaust leak contribute to a bad compression reading? Could this be the source of the engine clatter?

Yes!! I thought it sounded like an exhaust leak too. There are copper crush washers in there that seals the exhaust to the head. They should be replaced anytime the exhauast is removed because they crush when torqued down and its hard to get a good seal afterward.
That doesnt mean theres not something else going on though in that low compression cylinder
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
That doesnt mean theres not something else going on though in that low compression cylinder
Yeah I'm going to follow through with DriverRider's suggestion and observation.

In the meantime, where can I get these crush washers? I didn't even know about them..
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I found a part number for them. Felpro 605670 are said to be widely available.

The hardest part will be getting the old ones out as they're expanded and gripping the OD of the port like a Bulldog.
Any suggestions for getting them out? My ideas are often on the harsher side :lash: so a more level headed grease monkey with some such experience could potentially save me a lot of headaches. :dumb:
 

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If you look at your first picture, you'll see the undercut at about the 5 o'clock position. It allows you to get a small pick, or pry bar under the gasket.
 

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I found a part number for them. Felpro 605670 are said to be widely available.



Any suggestions for getting them out? My ideas are often on the harsher side :lash: so a more level headed grease monkey with some such experience could potentially save me a lot of headaches. :dumb:
Like what? A cold chisel and a come-along?:ROFL:

The metal tip of a compass is my preferred tool for these little buggers.
 
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